Cargo Trailer Spruce Up

[Blown F-150]

OK Boys and girls. I'm going to be adding a few small items to the cargo trailer to make it a touch more versatile. The goal is to have something that we can use to haul the quads and be a bit of a home base for a overnight camp. I plan on grabbing another roof top tent as a "sleeping area" on the back of the truck like before, but the tent will be bigger this time.

Anyways, on the trailer this is the short game
- 12v powered lights
- 12v Roof Fan
- 110v powered outlets x2 via inveter
- 110v exterior connection for "shore power"
- RV door latch for the man door

Possibly a couple slider windows in the spring with a china diesel heater, but we'll see how it goes. No plans for water or anything like that, just a sheltered area to be able to cook and have some space if we need it for something else.

Here is the basic diagram I threw together to get my thoughts "on paper".

[Blown F-150]

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[Blown F-150]

The walls are nailed and glued, so I doubt I'll be insulating them at this point, but I'll put some 1" foam in the ceiling and underneath to help a little bit.

[Kitzy]

I’m not going to pretend to understand your diagram because I dont mess with wiring of any kind unless absolutely necessary.  And even then I have to know for certain where the wires go.  Like fool proof.  Haha

I look forward to this though.  I think the trailer needs some bling to go with this though.  Wheels and tires and a vinyl wrap that Carrie’s the theme of the truck. 

Where is the second roof top tent going?  On the trailer? 


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[Blown F-150]

I'm fine with wiring stuff, I'm just not looking forward to cutting holes in the trailer.

Nothing big at all on this project, still have big turbos and injectors to go into the truck and a few small things to wrap up on the Quad (and the ST is getting intake and full exhaust...)

I sold the other roof top tent I had, as it was too small for the 4 of us. I found a couple decent true four person tents that look like they will work out pretty well.

[Kitzy]

I'm fine with wiring stuff, I'm just not looking forward to cutting holes in the trailer.

Nothing big at all on this project, still have big turbos and injectors to go into the truck and a few small things to wrap up on the Quad (and the ST is getting intake and full exhaust...)

I sold the other roof top tent I had, as it was too small for the 4 of us. I found a couple decent true four person tents that look like they will work out pretty well.

See, this is why no one believes you when you say you’re done with things. 


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[Blown F-150]

Well, the truck updates are sponsored and the wife likes the idea of the car having a little bark. Both are likely to happen in May, but gotta spend wisely these days, everything seems to be going up in price.


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[sscully]

I am guessing the blue item below the title ( trailer ) is a 12v battery ?
- It looks like a D cell battery.

If so; did you mean for it to bypass your 150A fuse, going to the fuse panel ?
- Also did you mean to have a 150A of 12 V power 

Keep in mind that the fuse needs to be as close to the source of the power that you can get it.

Going through the trailer wall, you either want greenfield flexible or thin wall pipe from the shore power to inside the trailer with the 110VAC line.
- Watching out for vibrations on the raw edge of the trailer and don't trust only poly grommets for repetitive movements like that.  Poly bushing with think wall or flex tube through it.  SuerGlue, lock tite, etc the poly bushing threats.

Just a few questions that stood out to me.

BTW : Before you get fuel smell in the trailer, you might want to epoxy the trailer flooring so spills don't soak into the plywood.

[Blown F-150]

I am guessing the blue item below the title ( trailer ) is a 12v battery ?
- It looks like a D cell battery.

If so; did you mean for it to bypass your 150A fuse, going to the fuse panel ?
- Also did you mean to have a 150A of 12 V power 

Keep in mind that the fuse needs to be as close to the source of the power that you can get it.

Going through the trailer wall, you either want greenfield flexible or thin wall pipe from the shore power to inside the trailer with the 110VAC line.
- Watching out for vibrations on the raw edge of the trailer and don't trust only poly grommets for repetitive movements like that.  Poly bushing with think wall or flex tube through it.  SuerGlue, lock tite, etc the poly bushing threats.

Just a few questions that stood out to me.

BTW : Before you get fuel smell in the trailer, you might want to epoxy the trailer flooring so spills don't soak into the plywood.

Thanks for reading and asking the questions. I'm sure there is going to be something that I'm missing.

As you can tell, I didn't use any "standards" in that diagram. Just threw it together to get the lay out on paper, lol.
The symbol is just to signify the battery. I have one 100ah Lithium Iron battery (self heating) on the way. It will probably do just fine, for my needs, however I may add a second.

The 150amp fuse is sized appropriately based on a 2000w inverter, it's really just being a fail safe in case of a short. All the components are individually fused. It may go in front of the power switch, but we are talking a few inches here or there, so shouldn't have too much impact.

Since I'm not planning on hooking up at RV lots, I've opted to grab a 15amp/110v molded plug which is basically an extension cord that mounts on the outside. The walls are so thin, that it will poke inside the trailer a touch. I may end up putting sheeting in the trailer, but that can be a final step.

You make a excellent point on the floor. I have been trying to figure that one out and struggling to decide on what's best to do. I found some bulk rolls of Gym mating (8mm) that I'm leaning towards, but won't be very friendly if I ever drive a sled in it. but you're right, I should at least get a coating on it, before it's too late.

Still slowly ordering and piecing together parts to do more once it warms up.

[Kitzy]

They make garage floor epoxy that works well if you use a special wood primer for it.  That’s my plan eventually when I overhaul my enclosed trailer.  Easy to sweep out and even pressure wash.  Especially if you take it up the sides partially.  Might be a nightmare if you need to remove the floor for any reason but that’s another issue. 


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[Blown F-150]

Do you know the brand? I was looking at some stuff from Kiln that looked pretty good


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[Kitzy]

Do you know the brand? I was looking at some stuff from Kiln that looked pretty good


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This is the email response to my question to what they recommended for my trailer.  I explained I was looking for something very durable, applied to wood, that would stand up to power sliding/throttling four wheelers in to a sideways position. 



Hi

We would recommend our www.armorcladepoxy.com garage system for your trailer. It can be applied to wood. Since the smallest kit we offer is 300 sq ft we would recommend that you mix up smaller quantities which is easily done and put down 2 coats plus use the Military grade topcoat option.

 

Thank you very much.

 

Customer Service

Armorpoxy, Inc.

805 Lehigh Ave.

Union, NJ 07083

908-810-9613

Fax 908-810-9612


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[Blown F-150]

That looks perfect. I need something pretty durable and could do the ramp too.


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[Kitzy]

That looks perfect. I need something pretty durable and could do the ramp too.


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I don’t remember how I ultimately decided on them.  Or if that was my final decision.  I’d still recommend researching them.  I think I remember being pretty impressed or I wouldn’t have emailed them. 


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[Too Stroked]

I explained I was looking for something very durable, applied to wood, that would stand up to power sliding/throttling four wheelers in to a sideways position.

And here I was thinking KY Jelly or something. Silly me.