Melted a fuse...help.

[Rollingrock]

Guys...I was in the garage working on my LED lights and noticed a faint presence if smoke....then today my 52 wouldn't come on...I checked the inline fuse...this is what I found.




This is where I had the inline tucked under.


Any idea why this would happen?   

Could that have just gotten too hot tucked under that?   I am going to watch it, and if I melt another one, I may spline in a new inline.   Fuse is 30amp





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[Too Stroked]

Although Steve is the electrical expert, I'll offer my thoughts. That fuse could have become melted for only two reasons. One is heat in the area of the fuse and the other is a high amperage draw that somehow didn't blow the fuse.

For heat, what's the fuse near? Anything that could have gotten that hot? I'm kind of doubting this one.

For the high draw, I'd start with a fresh 30 amp fuse and see what happens. Do you have a DVM to check how much the circuit is drawing?

BTW, are you switching that big boy on and off with a fused relay or straight through a switch and that fuse?

[Rollingrock]

Although Steve is the electrical expert, I'll offer my thoughts. That fuse could have become melted for only two reasons. One is heat in the area of the fuse and the other is a high amperage draw that somehow didn't blow the fuse.

For heat, what's the fuse near? Anything that could have gotten that hot? I'm kind of doubting this one.

For the high draw, I'd start with a fresh 30 amp fuse and see what happens. Do you have a DVM to check how much the circuit is drawing?

BTW, are you switching that big boy on and off with a fused relay or straight through a switch and that fuse?

Thanks Tom, I am a noob when it comes to working a DVM...it is run off a fused relay.  Well, there is a power line to a little box then to a inline fuse to the power source. 

[Too Stroked]

Although Steve is the electrical expert, I'll offer my thoughts. That fuse could have become melted for only two reasons. One is heat in the area of the fuse and the other is a high amperage draw that somehow didn't blow the fuse.

For heat, what's the fuse near? Anything that could have gotten that hot? I'm kind of doubting this one.

For the high draw, I'd start with a fresh 30 amp fuse and see what happens. Do you have a DVM to check how much the circuit is drawing?

BTW, are you switching that big boy on and off with a fused relay or straight through a switch and that fuse?

Thanks Tom, I am a noob when it comes to working a DVM...it is run off a fused relay.  Well, there is a power line to a little box then to a inline fuse to the power source.

Did you wire / install it or did you have somebody do it for you?

And just out of curiosity, how is the additional 20" LED bar wired in? Are they wired to the same relay & fuse? That might be a bit too much of a draw for one circuit.

[Rollingrock]

I bought a wire harness kit that David sells for both..

They are running off separate lines. 

Wondering if maybe I should get a distribution box.   

[Too Stroked]

I bought a wire harness kit that David sells for both..

They are running off separate lines. 

Wondering if maybe I should get a distribution box.

Nah, you should be fine with one of his harnesses for each one - assuming they're installed correctly.

[hwm3]

Are you pulling power directly from the battery for them?

[Rollingrock]

I bought a wire harness kit that David sells for both..

They are running off separate lines. 

Wondering if maybe I should get a distribution box.

Nah, you should be fine with one of his harnesses for each one - assuming they're installed correctly.

The only thing I would question on my install is at the actual switch.   3 plugs.  1 for the little light on the switch 1 power and 1 ground...could it be possible I have one in the wrong spot?   And if so wouldn't it not work right?   Like not light up and turn the little light on the switch on? 

[Rollingrock]

Are you pulling power directly from the battery for them?

This is the wiring harness kit that I got from David. 

It has a incline fuse and a little box that does something.   

http://shop.texaslibertyled.com/Wiring-Harness-wir-1.htm

[hwm3]

I can't tell much from that link. Do you have the small or large one? What size wire does it have?

The switch itself should be seeing very little amperage. It should only be running the relay and the light in the switch. The relay should be powered directly from the battery.

[Rollingrock]

I can't tell much from that link. Do you have the small or large one? What size wire does it have?

The switch itself should be seeing very little amperage. It should only be running the relay and the light in the switch. The relay should be powered directly from the battery.

This harness comes with a relay, switch wire and then an inline fuse. 

At least i think its a relay.   

[sscully]

sorry ONR'ing the G6 tonight after donating platelets, missed the fun so far.

I'll toss in my SWAG ( expert.. that might be pushing the term expert ).

The fuse holder, what I can see from the URL above, is one of those cheaper waterproof fuse holders that is good to 15 or 20A max.

The fact that there is a 30 in there, and it is melting would tell me there is a crap contact in the circuit, and heat is being generated by it.

30A should be in MAXI fuse ( or Mega fuse if you prefer them, I and old school maxi ) and anything 20A that has a high current inrush should also be a Maxi ( mega ) fuse.

Hard to tell by the wire, but if they used that fuse holder, chances are they are too small on the AWG wire you should be running also ( just a SWAG by the fuse holder they have in the kit ).

I'd start with changing the fuse holder to set screw maxi fuse holder and do a crimp & solder on the ring terminals for it.


Should be able to find these at a Napa, if not they  can be found online.
http://www.amazon.com/LITTELFUSE-01520001TXN940-FUSE-HOLDER-MAXI/dp/B00DK829MG

Bluesea has some AMI/MIDI or Mega fuse holders if you want to go that route ( I usually think auio when I see these, but that is just me ).

I still do not get a warm / fuzzy on the harness in general if they used that fuse holder, might want to look at getting one in 12 AWG with a 40A relay on it
- Hard to tell, the picture in the URL above is so small, I cannot read what it is.  I increase the size, and it goes fuzzy on the lettering.

Hate to say it, but I think you were given the wrong harness for that 52" light...  Just a SWAG on my part.

PS : Please, please tell me this is not going to be like trying to help Brad with wiring...

[Rollingrock]

Thanks Steve

I will try to get a photo of the relay...and a close up of the fuse holder but I think you are right, I need to put a new one inline b/c this one is kind of melted too.   

[Rollingrock]

Here is the relay...



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[sscully]

They stuck the correct size relay in the harness, same as the fuse.
- Does not mean the wire is the correct size, that is a quick swap out.

Can you get a picture of the AWG marking on the wire as well.

don't get one of the inline solder DIY types, those are the 20A version, the set screw for the ring terminal are the higher AMp version.

I have not seen one of those weather pack versions that is for 12 AWG / > 20A loads.
- They might exist, but usually they are on 16 AWG wire for < 20A loads.

Last time I saw this issue.
1. Flex-a-lite FAL-290 fan kits for the 5.4L.  The fuse hodler had a recall, and they went to the littlefuse set screw version.
2. Troyer when he had the issue with the smaller than current inrush on the e-fan kit.
- That was a current inrush issue with the fan free wheeling, and when they kicked on, the current inrush was more than the relay socket could take over time ( quick on / off cycles tore them up )