Overspray advice needed

[leedriver]

A while back my truck got covered in overspray here at work. The guy was painting some frames outside and it carried farther than he thought it would.

I worked on a small part of the hood this past weekend just to see what I was dealing with, well needless to say its on there pretty good. Hopefully you guys will be able to tell what I'm working with but I'm not sure with the picture size...

There is film on here as well but mainly what you're seeing is the white overspray:


Left side of the hood after multiple passes of M205 on a white and orange CCS 4" pad, and I even tried M105 on both pads as well. It definitely removed a lot but not all of it:


Half and half shot after:


Basically I didn't come up with a good method for removal. 105 and an orange pad left marring that would definitely need to be followed up. I have yellow CCS pads but don't really care for them based on how porous they are. Would wet sanding be my next option? My hood needs re-painted in the spring regardless so I kind of have it to work on as a trial for other parts of the truck. I have a PC and a Flex to work with. What do you guys think? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[Blown F-150]

I would try Clay if you haven't already. You may need to go to a fairly aggressive clay to get it off.

[leedriver]

Good point, I should have mentioned that clay was my first step on the side I worked on. I was using Meguiar's blue and it didn't touch the stuff. I should have also mentioned its been on there for well over a year....

[Blown F-150]

Do you know if the paint is oil or water based. I would be careful, but a solvent might be something to try or gasoline sometime works. Please use extreme caution if you try gas, that sh*t explodes!

If dealing with oil-based, I have had success with isopropyl, Xylene and toluene. Just as a disclaimer, try in a hidden spot first to ensure it only removes the over-spray.

[leedriver]

Oil-based. If I remember right I tried paint thinner and WD40 a few days after it happened without much luck.

Is it possible that there is a solvent out there that would still take it off after all this time?

[Too Stroked]

Oil-based. If I remember right I tried paint thinner and WD40 a few days after it happened without much luck.

Is it possible that there is a solvent out there that would still take it off after all this time?

I think the time for solvents has pretty well passed. Let's see what Gipraw says. He's the master of this kind of tough problem. Doug?

[Obsessive Detail]

I would try a more aggressive claybar.  I've had to do that a few times with really bad overspray.  The longer it sits, the harder it is to get off.  Of course, after using an aggressive claybar, you will get a lot of marring and have to buff afterwards, but it should do the trick.

[leedriver]

I'm definitely interested in trying a more aggressive clay bar, I see Rick sells a red Meguiar's (C2100) and also an aggressive purple bar, any suggestions on which one I should try? Or is there something else out there?

[gipraw]

I use the 2100 when I need an aggressive clay.

Can you still feel it on the paint, or is it down to where it is just a discoloration on the paint?

[leedriver]

Honestly I will have to check that tonight when I get home. After washing and claying the spot I worked on I didn't feel it much before polishing. Are you leaning towards if I can't feel it that clay might not get me far?

[Rollingrock]

sitting here watching....holding my tongue a little...

but if it were me, I would try the purple clay first then....errr....shhhhh  try Laqure Thinner....

But be warned...that is a last ditch effort.

[gipraw]

Honestly I will have to check that tonight when I get home. After washing and claying the spot I worked on I didn't feel it much before polishing. Are you leaning towards if I can't feel it that clay might not get me far?

I had one in the shop this weekend that had the exact same issue.  Aggressive clay didn't touch it, and I ended up hitting the spots with some 3000 grit sandpaper.   My preference over lacquer thinner because it took a very light touch. 

Nothing else was able to cut it.. clay, tar remover, body solvent, buffing, etc..

If you go that route, be very slow and easy.

[Need4racin]

Most body shops use laquer thinner or wax and grease remover.

[Merlin]

I just did one yesterday.
I used a PC/DA with a Surbuf pad and M105 (kinda messy but worked)
Finished with Meg MF disc/D300 then LC white/M205 it came out perfect!

[Merlin]

Left side of the hood after multiple passes of M205 on a white and orange CCS 4" pad, and I even tried M105 on both pads as well.
It definitely removed a lot but not all of it:

Basically I didn't come up with a good method for removal. 105 and an orange pad left marring that would definitely need to be followed up.
I have yellow CCS pads but don't really care for them based on how porous they are.

Would wet sanding be my next option? My hood needs re-painted in the spring regardless so I kind of have it to work on as a trial for other parts of the truck.
I have a PC and a Flex to work with. What do you guys think? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

What model is the Flex? DA or rotary?
I personally have not had good results with Yellow CCS pad

Have you tried a 5" Surbuf pad on the PC?
Don't be fooled by the soft fuzzy fingers. It will cut.