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Author Topic: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific  (Read 6938 times)

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Offline sscully

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Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« on: April 10, 2012, 09:19:55 AM »
The weather is getting nicer and I am going to show queen the sister in law's Mustang.

If you did not see it, there is a thread on the train wreck that the paint is.
http://www.thedetailerscafe.com/smf/index.php?topic=2620.msg26651#msg26651

I have PB Black Hole and CG Blacklight glaze.

Wondering which of these would work better for dolling up the paint.
The planned LSP is Menz Power Lock.

If there is another option that i should look into, I am open to suggestions.  I have the PB products for layering, and got the CG stuff from the typical crazy sale ( could not pass it up ).

I am going to be performing zero ( let me say it again ZERO ) defect removal.  I don't even feel good about going PP on a blue pad on the paint.

This is why I am looking for glaze recommendations. 

I know, I know, I might as well be asking a Democrat to vote Republican with this request, but I thought I would give it a try.
Steve

Offline Rollingrock

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2012, 12:40:45 PM »
About about Menzera 106FF on a black or blue or even a red pad?

Or Optimim Micro Polish

Or ClearKote Red Moose glaze.


 :dunno:


Thanks for visiting the Cafe, come back often.  There's always something new!

Offline Too Stroked

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2012, 02:17:26 PM »
I kind of like what JP suggested. Some real fine polish on a very soft pad just to wake the paint up a bit, then cheat like hell with a glaze. Only you know how poor the adhesion of the new paint is over the original though. Just be careful and you'll be fine. Of course if everything falls off in sheets, I don't know you and never wrote this!  :redneck:

Offline sscully

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2012, 06:24:20 PM »
I kind of like what JP suggested. Some real fine polish on a very soft pad just to wake the paint up a bit, then cheat like hell with a glaze. Only you know how poor the adhesion of the new paint is over the original though. Just be careful and you'll be fine. Of course if everything falls off in sheets, I don't know you and never wrote this!  :redneck:

One question....

How much did the sister in-law pay you to give me this advice ?  :redneck:
- She is still none too happy that you saved me from repainting the car... :wow:

106FF on a blue or red pad.  OK, I did not think that far into it, but it would help.

For light polish I have 106FF, PO85RD, ProPolish and Opti Hyper Polish.

I generally use PO85RD or PP as the follow up polish ( doing it right now on the hood of the G6, some marks have been driving me nuts for about a month   :slow: ).

Glaze, should I go in for the ClearKote glaze ?   I have never read anything on it, then again I have not gone looking.

RR & tom, Thanks for the advice so far !!
Don't know how often I would use this vs PB BH or CG Blacklight.
Steve

Offline Obsessive Detail

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2012, 08:59:40 PM »
I kind of like what JP suggested. Some real fine polish on a very soft pad just to wake the paint up a bit, then cheat like hell with a glaze. Only you know how poor the adhesion of the new paint is over the original though. Just be careful and you'll be fine. Of course if everything falls off in sheets, I don't know you and never wrote this!  :redneck:

One question....

How much did the sister in-law pay you to give me this advice ?  :redneck:
- She is still none too happy that you saved me from repainting the car... :wow:

106FF on a blue or red pad.  OK, I did not think that far into it, but it would help.

For light polish I have 106FF, PO85RD, ProPolish and Opti Hyper Polish.

I generally use PO85RD or PP as the follow up polish ( doing it right now on the hood of the G6, some marks have been driving me nuts for about a month   :slow: ).

Glaze, should I go in for the ClearKote glaze ?   I have never read anything on it, then again I have not gone looking.

RR & tom, Thanks for the advice so far !!
Don't know how often I would use this vs PB BH or CG Blacklight.

ClearKote Red Moose glaze is probably the most popular product from ClearKote and used to be really popular on the detailing forums.  This is a great glaze that gives a lot of depth and wetness plus it fills a lot better than most glazes on the market.

Offline sscully

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2012, 09:08:18 PM »
ClearKote Red Moose glaze is probably the most popular product from ClearKote and used to be really popular on the detailing forums.  This is a great glaze that gives a lot of depth and wetness plus it fills a lot better than most glazes on the market.

OK, I'm in ! :clap:

I have on the list the Deep Reflections wax, should I go with that or Wet Obsession over the ClearKote ?

From the descriptions I am leaning towards Deep Reflections.

Thanks

Steve
Steve

Offline Obsessive Detail

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2012, 09:13:27 PM »
ClearKote Red Moose glaze is probably the most popular product from ClearKote and used to be really popular on the detailing forums.  This is a great glaze that gives a lot of depth and wetness plus it fills a lot better than most glazes on the market.

OK, I'm in ! :clap:

I have on the list the Deep Reflections wax, should I go with that or Wet Obsession over the ClearKote ?

From the descriptions I am leaning towards Deep Reflections.

Thanks

Steve

Steve

It is really just personal preference with the Wet Obsession or Deep Reflections wax, both look similar.  Deep Reflections is a little harder to remove due to the high carnauba content and Wet Obsession is almost effortless to remove.  Don't get me wrong DR does come off easier than most waxes, but after using WO it does seem harder. 

If you are going to use the ClearKote Red Moose glaze, make sure you always put that on before your wax because it does contain cleaners and will strip your wax if put over the top of it. 

Offline sscully

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2012, 06:34:45 PM »
Thanks for the info.  Got the order in.

Jason or Justin,

Moose glaze, red pad at speed 2 to 3 on the flex for application ??
Steve

Offline Obsessive Detail

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2012, 06:50:04 PM »
Thanks for the info.  Got the order in.

Jason or Justin,

Moose glaze, red pad at speed 2 to 3 on the flex for application ??

Thanks Steve, that went out earlier today!

I like to apply the Red Moose glaze at speed 4 on the Porter Cable, not sure what it would be on the Flex.  You don't need to use much speed at all.

Offline Too Stroked

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2012, 07:05:01 PM »
My general rule of thumb on glazes or pure LSP's (no cleaners) is to run the softest pad I have at just enough speed to make sure the product covers the surface. No need to work it in. Hope that helps!

Offline sscully

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2012, 08:00:09 PM »
Justin,

moose glaze you suggest at the same application of the pre LSP as PB does. 
Steve (PB ) suggests the post polish / pre LSP to be worked in the same.

Tom,

You have the opposite from Justin & Steve ( PB ), which a lot of PB product users follow this even at the pre LSP step.

I use BH on a blue, and when pre LSP always worked it in similar to polish....  When layering ( after LSP and in between Wax steps ) I use a red foam pad by hand.

Oh the fun of the black art of detailing  :redneck:

So looking at RR's suggestion list, should I be doing both the polish and Moose glaze ? ( Tom I inadvertently asked this in the PM, should have been here ).

So is it :
106FF / PO85RD
Moose Glaze
Menz PL
DR

I was thinking longevity with the DR vs 845, but now that I have my head out of my rear, I really want to make it pop like mad !!

The DR is primarily for the G6 and F150, but I am now itching to try it on everything...
Steve

Offline Rollingrock

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2012, 10:17:27 PM »
I think you are adding too many steps there.

106 should be used to burnish or jewel the surface...a glaze kind of does the same thing but with some "fillers"   

I don't think you need to 106 then MG.   Each will give similar results but i can tell you that you need not add Black hole in that mix if you are going that route.

BH has lots of fillers in it..and acts like a glaze but it too will give a different look.

As for the WO vs DR...I haven't had the DR yet but I can tell you, I am probably one of the biggest fans of WO...I love the stuff and no matter what Justin says, it does last a tad longer than a few weeks.   A great combo for using WO is keeping some Opti Seal close by...after about a month of using WO, I cover it with OS.   

That's my .02...others may be smarter or may correct me but that's the world as I see it...

BTW, when you are talking about stuff like this at our level, you've reached a new OCD level.   Its like...hey my paint is corrected...can i do more?   Yes you can but really, you and only a select few in the world can see that difference. 

Thanks for visiting the Cafe, come back often.  There's always something new!

Offline sscully

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Re: Glaze suggestion - Application Specific
« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2012, 06:36:17 AM »
That is what I wanted to confirm.  I first read it as 106FF then MG, but after a read again the OR registered.

The BH was for the application example ( speed 4 vs speed 1.5-2 like LSP layering ).  I want to try to make it pop, but I do not have the time to go after it with layers.

OS ... I have not looked into that yet.  Maybe I should check that out as well.
Optimum Opti Seal ( not the Optimum Poli Seal, that is AIO which might / would remove what is already on the paint ).

would it be best to wait 30 days to do this, or could I get away with a shorter cure time ?
- Guess that is for Justin, as it is over DR, don't know if it acts the same as WO for cure time for layering.

Yes, look what you guys did.  Now I am doing layers of glaze and wax after the LSP to get the look to change.  what happened to me ??  :redneck:
- Hard to blame the cafe for that one, think I did that right when I signed up, or very shortly after that.
Steve

 


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