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Author Topic: 1970 mustang detail help  (Read 13141 times)

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Offline tdr6874

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Re: 1970 mustang detail help
« Reply #30 on: August 28, 2009, 11:01:42 AM »
what color is the car???  is it 1970 ford factory medium lime???  it looks too light for grabber green, too dark for light ivy yellow and a bit too gold for medium lime.......idk, 39+ year old car...me thinks it a respray unless

1. the camera colors are different that it is in person

2. its fadded bad grabber green

3. or its medium lime that has been rubbed on and the primer is coming thought and changes the tone of the top color.

it could be that the camera or my monitor is giving a different hue of green...but it does look a bit gold with the photos that are posted..or the yellow box truck is making the paint look more gold...

its a fastback with no vynl top...it seems as though it should have stripes on the side or lower chrome moldings...especial since the hood has the black scoop most that have that should also be painted black on the rear panel under the trunk and above the bumper where the rear brake/blinker lights are....the hood looks like its off a mach 1...but there is nothing else to show that its a mach 1...the plain jane 70 mustang that does not have vynl top or side rocker moldings does not have a hood scoop and does not have wheel well arc moldings or a front lower spoiler...

???idk???  still thinking a respray...do not to bother or be offened by my comments...nice car to do something with...but i dont know how fimiliar you are with older cars and how the story goes when its sold from one to another...you might of had this car for 25 years and beat mustang blood in your veins...but my limited experience says something is rotten in denmark


but as posted prior if it is original be very careful...take some very good picks and help will flow...to test for clear coat or single stage paint you can test with a rag and some wax on a small area...if it turns green it is a single stage....this should happen on a 40 year old car...if it stays free of green it should be a base coat clear coat finish...(there are a few exceptions and this is not a rule, but a quick easy test that is fairly accurate)

report back with your findings...then take a few more pics and post them...then tell us what you are trying to do...a full blown back to showroom or just make it look better...warning some of our standards of just look better is better than what some call showroom.  if it is original i would shoot for the look better because the paint should be pretty thin and with it showing some shine now it looks as though it has been rubbed on
« Last Edit: August 28, 2009, 11:26:46 AM by tdr6874 »

Offline 05supercrew

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Re: 1970 mustang detail help
« Reply #31 on: August 28, 2009, 11:31:39 AM »
« Last Edit: August 28, 2009, 11:51:37 AM by 05supercrew »

Offline 70 tt rustang

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Re: 1970 mustang detail help
« Reply #32 on: August 28, 2009, 06:59:40 PM »
what color is the car???  is it 1970 ford factory medium lime???  it looks too light for grabber green, too dark for light ivy yellow and a bit too gold for medium lime.......idk, 39+ year old car...me thinks it a respray unless

1. the camera colors are different that it is in person

2. its fadded bad grabber green

3. or its medium lime that has been rubbed on and the primer is coming thought and changes the tone of the top color.

it could be that the camera or my monitor is giving a different hue of green...but it does look a bit gold with the photos that are posted..or the yellow box truck is making the paint look more gold...

its a fastback with no vynl top...it seems as though it should have stripes on the side or lower chrome moldings...especial since the hood has the black scoop most that have that should also be painted black on the rear panel under the trunk and above the bumper where the rear brake/blinker lights are....the hood looks like its off a mach 1...but there is nothing else to show that its a mach 1...the plain jane 70 mustang that does not have vynl top or side rocker moldings does not have a hood scoop and does not have wheel well arc moldings or a front lower spoiler...

???idk???  still thinking a respray...do not to bother or be offened by my comments...nice car to do something with...but i dont know how fimiliar you are with older cars and how the story goes when its sold from one to another...you might of had this car for 25 years and beat mustang blood in your veins...but my limited experience says something is rotten in denmark


but as posted prior if it is original be very careful...take some very good picks and help will flow...to test for clear coat or single stage paint you can test with a rag and some wax on a small area...if it turns green it is a single stage....this should happen on a 40 year old car...if it stays free of green it should be a base coat clear coat finish...(there are a few exceptions and this is not a rule, but a quick easy test that is fairly accurate)

report back with your findings...then take a few more pics and post them...then tell us what you are trying to do...a full blown back to showroom or just make it look better...warning some of our standards of just look better is better than what some call showroom.  if it is original i would shoot for the look better because the paint should be pretty thin and with it showing some shine now it looks as though it has been rubbed on


From the factory it had a 351 c the color is lime metallic paint i dont think it was ever painted it might b faded .he car hasnt been washed for at least 10 months :cry:. As for what your seeing it had the rear window lovurs and it still has the lower front spoiler. The only thing on the car now thats from the factory is the shell headlights tails and the interior minus the seats. It has a built 427 with rear mounted turbos a c4 strange rear, air ride a and the list goes on and on it made 680 whp. Take a look at my gallery for more pics.

Offline tdr6874

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Re: 1970 mustang detail help
« Reply #33 on: August 28, 2009, 07:56:01 PM »
If thats the case its not factory paint.  The rear valence should be black.  The hood is of a mach 1.  The car is not a mach 1. 

 


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