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Author Topic: Light bars and wiring  (Read 770 times)

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Offline Kitzy

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Light bars and wiring
« on: October 15, 2017, 11:32:21 AM »
Quick question.  Hopefully simple answer.  I have a few lights laying around so I'm throwing them on my four wheeler.  It's four lights total.  I want to use a quad splitter like so... http://mudthrowers.com/inc/sdetail/78130/87182

I would then use one of the wiring set ups from the lights that has the relay and switch.  There will only be one fuse but the ones that come with each light are only 5 amp.  Can I just replace that with a 20 amp?  I thought I read somewhere that I could. 

So it would be...
 Lights-quad splitter-remaining wiring harness which includes the relay, fuse, wires to battery and switch. 

Lights are 40w, 30w, 30w, 40w total 140watts. 



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Offline sscully

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2017, 11:02:51 AM »
Hard to saw what the LED draw is, if it was halogen load, that would be 11.7 A normal operation.

Working backwards from halogen load, if 11.7A is 80% of the load the fuse & relay would need to be able to carry 15A.
- operational load should only be 80% of max on all items in the circuit

The quad splitter is 16 AWG, I would imagine the wire on what you have it also 16 AWG.

If the relay is spec'd to at least 15A ( std Bosch are 20A ) I'd put a 15A fuse in place and go with that.
- 16 AWG is spec'd to 10A, going 20A with the fuse by time it blows ( other than short to ground ) the wire would be melted.

The LED load should be less than the halogen equivalent light wattage, so you should be good. 
General example a 75 W halogen bulb output is ~ a 10W LED.
- I'd chance that a 10 A fuse would run those 4 lights, with them all being LED.
Steve

Offline Kitzy

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2017, 12:07:11 PM »
So if I'm understanding correctly...

20a is probably too high and wires could melt.
10a would probably be sufficient and safe? 

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Offline Too Stroked

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2017, 06:17:33 PM »
If the total is 140 Watts as you say, on a 12 Volt system, that works out to 11.6 Amps. That's well below what a traditional halogen system would draw.

Offline Kitzy

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2017, 08:26:40 PM »
If the total is 140 Watts as you say, on a 12 Volt system, that works out to 11.6 Amps. That's well below what a traditional halogen system would draw.
Sooooo, what fuse?  Haha.  I'm thinking go with the 10, if it pops, then I guess 15.  Sounds like 20 is out of the question?  I hate wiring.

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Offline sscully

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #5 on: October 16, 2017, 10:31:01 PM »
So if I'm understanding correctly...

20a is probably too high and wires could melt.
10a would probably be sufficient and safe? 

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I am an electrician's son, so I don't fuse more than the weakest part of the circuit.  20A fuse on 16 AWG is a no-no from the Irish Catholic upbringing I had.
- Dad still has ham hocks for hands, they hurt like hell when I get smacked with them.  He is recovering from his 2nd knee replacement ( 74 and still climbs grain towers for work ), and he would throw his cane at me like a knife if I took the out run route.

That in mind, the case where the wires would melt is other than short to ground. 
That would mean the LED pods would have to become electric space heaters ( more than the diodes are new from the factory that is ).

The 10A should be fine, I am going with the 140W is the halogen equivalent, which means it is closer to 19W of LED lights.
- If it is 140W of LED, that would be ~ 1,000W halogen equivalent.
Steve

Offline Blown F-150

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #6 on: October 16, 2017, 10:31:52 PM »
Any idea on what that stator is rated at? If you put too much load on it, you will burn it up.

I can't remember what they are rated for. Let me see if I can find out.
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Offline Kitzy

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2017, 07:23:57 AM »
The description says the slitter can be used for cube lights up to 30" bars but I can't imagine wiring 4 30" bars together. 

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Offline sscully

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #8 on: October 20, 2017, 06:16:05 AM »
Did you get a chance to find out if the electrical system can have this added to it ?

That was a great question up the thread, something I never thought about.
Steve

Offline Kitzy

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #9 on: October 20, 2017, 07:13:53 AM »
Did you get a chance to find out if the electrical system can have this added to it ?

That was a great question up the thread, something I never thought about.
No I did not.  Actually, I must of had "a moment" because I remember reading it but it was o e of those moments where you just don't comprehend what you're reading so it goes in one ear and out the other.  I will look in to that. 

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Offline Kitzy

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #10 on: October 20, 2017, 12:02:31 PM »
So this is copied directly from someone's post which mimicks other posts I've been seeing. 

"The stator output for a YFM7FGPW Yamaha Grizzly 700 is 14.0 Vdc 35.0 Amps at 5000 r/min.:banana:

Rectifier/Regulator no load regulated voltage is 14.2 - 14.8 Vdc. Rectifier capacity is 50.0 Amps Withstand voltage is 40.0 Vdc"

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Offline Kitzy

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #11 on: October 20, 2017, 05:53:48 PM »
I got my four way splitter today.  Didn't blow a 10a fuse.  I only ran it for 30 seconds or so. 

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Offline sscully

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #12 on: October 20, 2017, 11:45:10 PM »
without actually knowing what it takes to run the motor, I would still guess you are OK.

If you had a clamp meter I would guess you are ~ 7 A with all of them on.
-  I don't know that mfgr of LED lights, so unless they are really bad with the build it should not be drawing that much.
Steve

Offline Blown F-150

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #13 on: October 21, 2017, 12:42:22 AM »
I think you will be just fine with that kind of rating.
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Offline Kitzy

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Re: Light bars and wiring
« Reply #14 on: October 21, 2017, 06:52:36 AM »
without actually knowing what it takes to run the motor, I would still guess you are OK.

If you had a clamp meter I would guess you are ~ 7 A with all of them on.
-  I don't know that mfgr of LED lights, so unless they are really bad with the build it should not be drawing that much.
There was another post where someone had tested everything on the electrical system.  It was way under what it was rated for and I likely won't be running the headlights anymore either. 

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