Project Super Duty

[Blown F-150]

I actually go time to wash the truck yesterday. It is going to need some work, but not as bad as I initially thought.

Tonight I hope to get the fuel pressure gauge and headlights done. I'll post up some pics soon.

[Blown F-150]

Made a bit of progress, but not as much as I would like. I was able to get the 4 gauge pod installed with the fuel pressure gauge, but couldn't get the sending unit installed... The "nut" portion of the M12 to NPT adapter was to big and doesn't clear the fuel regulator spring cover. I think I'm going to look into a remote mount line.

I was also able to swap the headlights for a decent used pair I found. I figured I would try and take of the "cover" from the originals, but it looks to be some thick plastic with adhesive on the whole thing. I'll polish the replacements when I do all the glass on the truck.

I was also able to fix the tranny temp gauge, it was just the power and sensor wires were backwards on the gauge for whatever reason.

New gauges (can you tell which one doesn't belong... )


Headlights I pulled off


The "film" that covers the lights. The adhesive is really thick.

[Rollingrock]

progress brother!  Awesome Pillar looks great


I am working on an oil leak on my F250 right now.   Seems to be leaking from the top and running down the back of the engine on both sides.

I hit it with APC+ and Simple Green and washed it off to see if i could isolate the leak. 

[Too Stroked]

progress brother!  Awesome Pillar looks great


I am working on an oil leak on my F250 right now.   Seems to be leaking from the top and running down the back of the engine on both sides.

I hit it with APC+ and Simple Green and washed it off to see if i could isolate the leak.

If memory serves me correctly, there's an O-rIng up near the turbo housing that goes and causes that one.

[GreyMichFX4]

progress brother!  Awesome Pillar looks great


I am working on an oil leak on my F250 right now.   Seems to be leaking from the top and running down the back of the engine on both sides.

I hit it with APC+ and Simple Green and washed it off to see if i could isolate the leak.

If memory serves me correctly, there's an O-rIng up near the turbo housing that goes and causes that one.

Tom,you nailed it on the head with the cause of the oil leak. Mine has been leaking there for a couple years now and Ford actually says not to touch them until you have significant oil loss.

[sscully]

...<snip>...

I was also able to swap the headlights for a decent used pair I found. I figured I would try and take of the "cover" from the originals, but it looks to be some thick plastic with adhesive on the whole thing. I'll polish the replacements when I do all the glass on the truck.
...<snip>...

That looks like headlight rock guard film.
Few years back it got big, some vendors were selling pre-cut ones for headlamps, protection from rocks.
Husky ( husky liners ), 3M and a a few other vendors ( Avery ) make them.

Don't think it is the same as the 3M 1080 film, that does not use water for applying them.
- The Husky ones I think go on like window tint, you float the film on the surface with a solution, and squeegee it down.

Maybe a take a look at window tint removal, or try to find the Husky directions ( they claim it comes off "easy" ).

Once you get them off and polished, might want to think about Optimum Opti Lens coating.  You might take a bit of the factory UV coating off them, and need to replace it with something.

[GreyMichFX4]

Peel the film off using a hair dryer and hit the adhesive with Windex to remove the adhesive. That's how I've removed the tint adhesive from car windows and it's also the reason why window tint places tell you not to use Windex is because it will fade the tint and attack the adhesive.

[GreyMichFX4]

Made a bit of progress, but not as much as I would like. I was able to get the 4 gauge pod installed with the fuel pressure gauge, but couldn't get the sending unit installed... The "nut" portion of the M12 to NPT adapter was to big and doesn't clear the fuel regulator spring cover. I think I'm going to look into a remote mount line.

Ryan, there are a few options to solve this you can either do a regulated fuel return with the sensor mounted remotely or you can do a billet fuel filter cap instead of trying to fight getting that fitting on the bottom of the fuel filter bowl. I would say do the regulated fuel return because it ties the fuel rails together and prevents dead heading of the injectors at the end of the fuel rails. It's not cheap at almost $700 but it's cheaper than injectors and labor to replace them.

Ask me how I know............

Here is what everything looks like under of the hood of my truck.

[Blown F-150]

Thanks For the suggestions guys. I will try to get that film off. If the cracking that I'm seeing is on the covers, I may end up re-using the original lights.

For the Fuel pressure sensor, I am going to try and remove the the spring cover and see if I can get the adapter in there. I really can't spend the money on the fuel return system right now. I looked under the front of the truck last night and fear some money will have to be spent on the front end....

My Tarminator and Metal RX just arrived from Justin! Looking forward to seeing what we can get cleaned up.

[Blown F-150]

Two thumbs up on the Tarminator and Metal RX. I messed around with one of the exhaust tips yesterday. I'll post up some pics this evening, but for how rough they were, they came out well with just a few minutes of work. The Tarminator also worked well on breaking up the soot caked on the edge of the tip.

I also hit a small section of one rim with Metal RX. It took the caked on brake dust right off and left the finish noticeably brighter.

[sscully]

For the wheels, might want to try Poorboys World Spray & Rinse.

I did a quick "no touch" wash of the SIL's new to her Mustang, and they turned out great.
- Have no idea when the last time they were cleaned was, the PO was not too interested in taking care of it.

http://poorboysworld.net/board/showthread.php?1446-Spray-and-Rinse-Proof

Bit of agitation with and old sponge and I am sure it would have taken off everything.

Might be worth a try to get the bulk of the gunk off before going after it with Metal RX.

[Too Stroked]

Two thumbs up on the Tarminator and Metal RX. I messed around with one of the exhaust tips yesterday. I'll post up some pics this evening, but for how rough they were, they came out well with just a few minutes of work. The Tarminator also worked well on breaking up the soot caked on the edge of the tip.

I also hit a small section of one rim with Metal RX. It took the caked on brake dust right off and left the finish noticeably brighter.

Do you have the factory wheels or aftermarket? The reason I ask is that the factory wheels are clear coated and you don't want to use metal polish on them. If they're aftermarket, knock yourself out!

[Blown F-150]

Do you have the factory wheels or aftermarket? The reason I ask is that the factory wheels are clear coated and you don't want to use metal polish on them. If they're aftermarket, knock yourself out!

They are stock, but after looking at them and seeing the corrosion, etc. around the lug nuts, I am fairly certain that they are raw. I am going to have another look though as I may have messed up. is there an easy way to tell?

Here are some pics

Before I hit it with metal RX


After


Here is the tip before (it was washed and scrubbed with a stiff brush)




After Tarminator


After being hit with Metal RX twice

[Blown F-150]

Thanks for the tip on the Spray & Rinse Steve. I am pretty sure I still have some left. I'll give it a shot this weekend if the weather holds up.

[Too Stroked]

Those are OEM wheels and they are normally clear coated. You can tell pretty quickly if you apply metal polish to an uncoated wheel, you'll get a black residue on your polishing rag. That's the oxidation coming off. With clear coat, you won't get any - unless the wheel is a real mess. I'd stay away from metal polish with those.