Project Super Duty

[sscully]

...<snip>...
I plan on correcting as much as I can and topping it off with Opti-Coat. Any recommendations on how warm it has to be out before I apply the Opti-Coat?

1. what are the defects like ?
don't know if this is a case of some of them are just too bad that it is a paint item ?
- the only reason I ask is Opti Coat is a compound it off item.

2. My personal use case : 70* or higher with low humidity.
I think the product is a wider application, as in the 50* + range, but I like it to flash a bit quicker than that.

[Blown F-150]

1. what are the defects like ?
don't know if this is a case of some of them are just too bad that it is a paint item ?
- the only reason I ask is Opti Coat is a compound it off item.

2. My personal use case : 70* or higher with low humidity.
I think the product is a wider application, as in the 50* + range, but I like it to flash a bit quicker than that.

I have yet to wash it, but I think the whole drivers side is original paint and never really seen any love. The tailgate is almost "dull" looking like single stage paint. Rocker Panels will need some Paint-work and I will probably end up using rock-guard on the very bottom when I pull the LED light strips. I know I am being picky (not really for this group, but for the general public). It really needs some mud-flaps, but the tires are so close to the front fenders that they might rub. I am not sure what I am going to do there...Doors, box sides, fenders are all pretty much major scratch and dent free. Just a couple of spots.
Anyway...I won't really have the facilities to detail when I move to the states, so I want to take the time to correct as much as possible and then use Opti-Coat to seal it up for a good long time. I'm almost at the point (I hope in the next couple of weeks) where I can switch gears from Mechanical to Cosmetic. By then, I should be getting to the ideal temps, unfortunately I don't have use of any garages that the truck will fit in so it will have to be done outside.

[Blown F-150]

I was able to get the rear brakes all done this evening. Other than spending the money, I am very glad to now have new Calipers, the ones I pulled off looked really rough. There was less than a mm on the pads and the rear drivers got super hot at one point. Used my Vacuum pump to pull lots of fresh fluid trough the lines and added a little extra grease to the slide pins. At this point, I'm gonna call the brakes a done deal. Wish I had taken some pics, but my hands were a mess and I didn't want to use the camera.

I hope the rain holds off as I would really like to get the blue spring update done tomorrow evening.

The list is starting to get shorter!  Getting closer to 

[sscully]

....<snip>....Doors, box sides, fenders are all pretty much major scratch and dent free. Just a couple of spots.
Anyway...I won't really have the facilities to detail when I move to the states, so I want to take the time to correct as much as possible and then use Opti-Coat to seal it up for a good long time. I'm almost at the point (I hope in the next couple of weeks) where I can switch gears from Mechanical to Cosmetic. By then, I should be getting to the ideal temps, unfortunately I don't have use of any garages that the truck will fit in so it will have to be done outside.

If are not going to be able to do anything with it for some time, I think  I would also do the correcting work and Opti Coat it.
Makes touch up real easy with ONR mixed at QD ratio ( 15:1 ).
If you are doing it outside, make sure you have 24 hours without rain, it needs that long to setup prior to getting wet.  Might be difficult to find, but other wise it won't set ( what I read from Dr G on it ).

If you are doing that much at one time, get a small LC crimson hydrotech pad and one of the hand holders for the pad.  You will use slightly more product, but it will be much easier on the application vs going with the Suede Microfiber Cloth over a Megs sanding block in a rubber glove ( next to nothing for absorbing into the applicator ).

Something like the Polishing Pal, they also have them as palm loops, for holding the pad.  I got it for dad's RV, but have used it one everything else but ( didn't get to that last year that is this summer's project ).
 
Smaller applications I go the Suede Microfiber Cloth route.

I know it has made me lazy for the top of the cab, the cap and the tailgate on my truck  :Old Dogg?:

[Blown F-150]

Thanks Steve,

I was going to give it a shot with the "special" applicator Justin sent with the Opti-Coat I ordered last fall.

Next week is meant to be pretty nice out, I might try and tackle a couple of panels and see how things go.

[Blown F-150]

I was able to tackle a couple more small things on the truck. I picked up some hardware to fix missing a few broke and missing bolts on the front bumper supports. Less rattles over the bumps now, which is good. My buddy had a spare key fob from his old focus, so I programmed it to the truck. I only received one set of keys with the truck, so I am glad to get a free fob and since there is no chip key, a cheap key cut.

On the subject of keyless entry, does anyone know if I can find out the door code without plugging the truck into a ford computer?

I also picked up a new battery hold down (the wedge) for the passenger battery since the one on the truck had a crack in it. replaced the degas bottle mounting bolts.

I figured a electric fuel pressure gauge would be a smart addition and then remembered I spent big bucks on one for my other truck. I looked around in my big box of random truck/car stuff and found it all neatly packed up in it's original box.    I ordered a new 4 gauge a-pillar pod and it should be here next week. I also picked up some white "Flex Seal" as I was think about using it on the quarter panels under the door. Not sure on that one yet... I was thinking about just spray in box liner, but since it's black, I'm not sure.

No work on the truck tomorrow as I will be doing the Vancouver "Sun Run". It's just a 10k run that I will try to run most of...I'm not that fit.

Hopefully Monday evening will be getting the running boards on and pulling off the LED light strips. I gotta get some more pics up to "prove" things are happening... I sure am itching to get it cleaned up now.

[sscully]

Your VSM looks to be about center of the dash.  not too sure if it is behind the radio or lower ??

The number should be on the VSM.

Here is a picture of where it should be at ( 2006 EVTM location diagram ).

[Blown F-150]

Thanks Steve, I will get out the dental mirror and a flashlight to see what I can find.

[Blown F-150]

Found it! Thanks again. I will have to try the code when I get everything under the dash back together again. I seem to have a short in the map light circuit, so I have the dash ripped apart. I will post up some pics tomorrow, it's not pretty...

I have decided to pull the Ford "Gold" remote start. I don't think it worked right and all the extra wiring is making it difficult to sort out other issues. I did get the high idle set up and connected to the Aux4 switch, one of the easiest mods I have ever done!

[Blown F-150]

I was able to get the remote start removed, so that's good. They had wires going everywhere and wrapped around things.

I was able to get my hands on some wiring diagrams, so I hope to tackle the short tomorrow and get it sorted out or at least find a source for the issue. I sure hope it's not the relay in the cluster...

If I'm really lucky the 4 gauge pod will show up tomorrow so I can get that in too. Either way, I will start the wiring it up under the hood.

One question I have, is that with the truck being set up for "extras" is there a good place to pull "key on" power from. The current A-Pillar gauges power is pulled from the console plug in and I would think there is a better place.

Just so you guys have an idea of the "ingenuity" I am dealing with...

[sscully]

You have a few routes to adding key on power from.

1st is from the fuse after the accessory Delay relay  ( this is hot until the doors are open like the windows and radio ).  Put an add-a-fuse in this slot, put the accessory delay fuse back in the primary slot, and up to a 10A in the added.



You did 1 of the customer access mods, so you should have these ( I cannot say for sure, have not looked at a 2006 F350 )





The last one I can think of straight away is to put an add-a-fuse in the trailer tow adapter battery charge relay fuse slot ( this is hot in run only, triggers the coil to the trailer tow battery charge relay )



If you need more than 8A ( 80% fuse rule ) for what you need this for, use the above to trigger the coil on a relay, and wire it to a maxi fuse and then to the battery directly.

Those are my suggestions, maybe an actual SuperDuty owner can give you some better ideas.

[Blown F-150]

Thanks Steve, the diagrams are very helpful.

I also found out last night that there is a wht/bl "Customer Access" wire that is fused in the fuse panel. I am going to try and find it today.

I only need enough amperage to run the gauges. I don't like where they currently pulled power from. I would say its 10amps at absolute max for my 4 gauges. My fuel pressure gauge and boost (light only) only add up to 1.5 amps.

[sscully]

Did you mean White w/ Light Blue stripe ?

That is one in the diagram 140-1 above, CJB Fuse # 29, 10A.

Looks to be on the driver's side of the dash :



Black cam over connector, 24 pins


You are looking for thew wire on pin #16.

These are 10A fuses, so if your load is 10A, you either need to split it between the White w/ Light Blue stripe wire ckt and an add-a-fuse to one of the above options or use it to trigger a relay coil.
- At 10A fuse, going with a load that close to the fuse size, it would pop quite often.

[Blown F-150]

Success! I am very glad to report that my troubleshooting was correct and the issue was in the vanity light circuit.

I really wish others gave a crap about what they did. Turns out the connector for the passenger visor was just bare pins on the harness side... Someone must have busted the plastic while doing the bodywork. I just taped it up for now, I think I have that connector somewhere to properly fix it.

Thanks for the assistance Steve, the above wire you mentioned (Blue with White stripe) is exactly what I was looking for. Turns out I'm lucky if the gauges draw 3 amps total so the 10 amp circuit will cut the mustard.


Dash all apart.


What I found under the door sill hunting down the short


After


The cause of the short...


The Power with key on wire


Power wire soldered up for the gauges. I still have to wire the rest up, but I'll clean it all up when I add the Fuel Pressure gauge. 4 gauge pod hasn't showed up yet.


Here the remote start I pulled out


Gauges are next and the blue spring update while I am installing the sensor.

[Rollingrock]

i am going to say this again, you have balls.. 

this is so far out of touch to what I can do...I am amazed of this thread and the contribution of others....just freaking amazing me what you guys do.