Project Super Duty

[Too Stroked]

The 7.3's wouldn't even start if you were too low on oil.

[Blown F-150]

The 7.3's wouldn't even start if you were too low on oil.

I Think Dave is referring to fuel in the oil because of a leak. I really hope it's not the case, but I will have to check. I wouldn't be surprised if the pick-up is blocked causing the pump to suck air through the fuel line connections. I have read that some PSD's were crushing the tanks because they weren't venting and the pumps have that much pull.

I'm stuck in Chicago till Saturday, so I won't be doing anything till today. I must say I'm glad I brought the Edge instead of the truck, I don't think I would have been able to valet the truck downtown...

[Blown F-150]

Well Boys, it's pretty hard to find a problem that isn't there....

After blowing out all the fuel lines, pulling apart the FPR again and taking out the 2nd Filter standpipe to make sure it was working as expected I gave up. I figured that the truck is going to the dealer in the morning.

I was putting away my tools and took the hose off of my mechanical fuel Pressure gauge. As I was putting it back in it's box, I just happened to look into the hose and noticed I couldn't see any light through the hose. Seems that the rubber in the hose had collapsed, probably because it was a cheap ass gauge kit that saw some ethanol in it's past.

So I found an adapter and spun the gauge directly onto the FPR housing. Here is what I saw...


Goes to show how important having good testing equipment is. I have a new sending unit on order for my electric fuel gauge, hope to get it in by mid-week.

What a relief, I was fearing that the valve covers were going to be coming off. I'm going to have a nice stiff Crown and Pepsi now...

[Kitzy]

That's great!  Love when things work out and that weight is lifted! 

[GreyMichFX4]

Glad you got it figured out.

[Rollingrock]

Glad you got it figured out.

x2....so impressed with your skills man

[Blown F-150]

I should have done it to begin with, but I've ordered a remote mount hose for the fuel pressure gauge sending unit.

I also ordered the updated Dummy plugs and standpipes. I hope to eliminate my long cranking cold starts. When I get around to installing them, I'll also go ahead and pull apart the FICM to check and re-solder a bunch of joints known to fail. My cranking and running voltages are good, but I figure I might as well do it if it's going to be out anyway.

I figure if I spend enough time and money on this truck, the wife will approve a new truck late next year with warranty...

[Rollingrock]

What is youe voltage?   Mine got down to 40....had it fixed locally for 100 bucks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

[Blown F-150]

Key on engine off is 48.7, cranking is 47.3ish and running is 48.2. so well within spec, but I figure if I have it out, I can re-solder to reduce a chance of a failure in the future.

[Rollingrock]

Thise numbers look good

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

[GreyMichFX4]

What oil and oil filters are you running? Remember these trucks needs to see 550psi at a minimum before the truck will even begin to think about popping off thanks to the HEUI.

[Blown F-150]

What oil and oil filters are you running? Remember these trucks needs to see 550psi at a minimum before the truck will even begin to think about popping off thanks to the HEUI.

I run Motocraft oil and filters. I am not a fan of the aftermarket after my buddy was burned by Mobil1 Sludging. I know Mobil1 is OEM for some vehicles, but you have to reduce your change intervals to 3000miles and that goes a bit against the idea of running a synthetic.

Since the truck fires up pretty quickly once warm or after only being shut off for a few minutes, I would put my money on (and obviously have  ) a blown o-ring on the dummy plugs and/or standpipes. I don't have any stiction issues and hope it stays that way, but I haven't used any oil additive yet (like Rev-X).

It is also very possible that the issue is the HPOP or the STC fitting, but I figure this is the easiest place to start. If the intake has to come off, I will be saving up some coin to do the following while in there
 - HPOP reman with new style STC fitting and a new IPR valve
 - oil cooler since I don't have any clue if it was done when the EGR delete was done
 - oil screen under oil cooler.

I'm still at a point where I don't know how long I will keep the truck, so i don't want to drop the money on head gaskets and studs, especially when I know i won't get the money back on a salvage title vehicle. At this point the Head Gaskets still seem to be holding strong...

[Blown F-150]

I had a pretty busy weekend, so busy that I don't have many pics...

My parts were all waiting for me when I got back from my Trip Thursday Night.
 - Bearings for Dirt Bike suspension linkage
 - New Sending unit for fuel pressure gauge
 - Remote mount hose for fuel pressure sending unit
 - updated Dummy plugs and standpipes

Since the dirt bike was apart, I pressed the new bearings into the linkage bits and put it back together. All I need to do is bleed the front brakes and a ride is planned for next weekend finally!

I then rolled the truck into the garage just far enough that the back tires got into the garage and got to work. I started with the passenger side as I figured it be the PITA side. I pulled off the valve cover and swapped out the dummy plug and standpipe. the one of the o-rings on the dummy plug was beginning to fail, but no blown o-rings. I was a bit disappointed that there wasn't a failed o-ring, but thought maybe on the other side. I buttoned it back up and then tackled the drivers side. different set of challenges with FICM brackets and Degas bottle, but nothing too bad. Swapped to the dummy plug and standpipe on that side to find no failures there either. I got it all back together and fired it up. Took a while to fire since there was no oil in the rails, but it did fire up. I took the time to clean up all the battery cable connections while I had them off as well as the power cable from the alternator.

Before putting the drivers side back together, I decided to pull apart the FICM, clean up all the connections and re-solder a bunch of the solder joints that are known to fail. pretty straight forward, you just have to take your time and be careful with the soldering gun.

Once that was done, I installed the remote mount hose, new sending unit and took the truck for a spin. It is running a solid 68psi and never drops below 60 @ WOT. I was very happy to see that.

I must have a terrible memory, because I cant remember if I noticed before, but the Turbo is a re-manufactured unit, the FICM has been replaced (it has one from 2009) and the glow plugs were done pretty recently since you can see how clean they look and the glow plug harnesses looked way cleaner than any of the other loom. Good to know really.

I think at this point I have either a weak HPOP or a HPO leak like an injector o-ring or the STC fitting. I think the best thing I can do right now is save my pennies to purchase the list of stuff mentioned before and injector to oil-rail o-rings. That way I go in once and get it all done. I was really hoping it was a leak with the Dummy plugs/Standpipes, but no luck.

Here is what the truck looks like when it's in the "Shop"


The Dirt Bike ready for action.

[Blown F-150]

Some stuff showed up for me today. When doing the Dummy Plugs/Standpipes, I pulled one of the oil rails. I noticed that a couple of the ball tubes were loose. For some reason I didn't think to check the dang o-rings in the top of the injectors... Anyway, after doing some research I found a o-ring kit and tool that will let me replace the high-pressure o-rings behind the ball tubes without replacing the whole oil-rail. Since I figured I was going in to do this, I bought o-ring kits for all the injectors and a couple of ball tubes in case there were any worn on the other side.

I may get one side done this weekend, but I'm really hoping to ride, so we'll see how ambitious I am.



As a side note, the truck worked great on my Chicago trip this week. Still a long crank when cold (4-seconds or so), but ran nice and smooth once it fires.

[sscully]

I have to see the presentation for the new truck idea to the wife. 

If I spend enough time and money on this truck, why would your wife want to replace it when you are done ?
- You are going to have a damn near a new engine once you are done ( diesel wise )  why would she want to go in with spending that kind of money to get to the same place ?