Need help picking a wax (wax only, no correction)

[attworth]

So the detailing season is drawing to a close here in Kansas and I just don't have the time to do a full correction on the Rabbit. It really needs it, but I'm going to have to skimp until the spring.

It's a 3 year old car that I've never done corrective work on, and it's only had wax on it a few times. Some of you guys know my recent history so I hope you can forgive me and hold off on the ban hammer for a bit.

I'd like to put something on it that will help conceal some of the issues. It's mostly just micro-marring and element wear. I'd also like it to be well protected for the next couple months as winter sets in.

Here's what I've got as far as LSPs and sealants go.

- Poorboy's EX-P
- Meg's No. 26
- ClearKote Yellow Moose Cream Wax
- Meg's NXT (1.0)
- Meg's No. 16 (from Canada, blue-ish stuff)
- Meg's Gold Class

I plan to give it a good deep wash (something I haven't done in way too long,) clay and then apply LSP. I'm not opposed to mixing, layering, what-have-you. Right now, buying something different is not an option.

Thanks for any help guys. I'll post pics, as unremarkable as they'll be. (The interior on the other hand.. that'll be a good one.)

Here's a fairly recent picture. Still nice and glossy, but what you can't see is all the micro-marring.

[sscully]

If the only option is to choose one from the list above, and the duration is "next couple months" the only choices are EX-P or NXT.

Sealant is the only thing that will last more than 30 to 60 days.

If you are not going after defects, don't clay the paint.  It will only increase the chances of adding to the marring.

Wash it, and go after it with EX-P, 2 thin coats at ~ speed 1.  If you want to go layer, wait 24 hours, and do another 2 thin coats at ~ speed again.

Nothing on that list is going hide defects, that is a glaze.

[attworth]

Steve,

Thanks for the input. Im curious why you say not to clay before I wax. Any wax I put on is likely to grab onto any contaminants in the paint and only push them further, right? This effect would be even worse if I use a machine to apply. I know it's been a while since I've done this but I always thought that was the case.

Also, I was under the impression that certain LSP's contain elements similar to a glaze (think cleaner wax.) Off the top of my head I can't remember which ones do, because 99% of the time I use Collinite 845 on my vehicles, which Im out of. The ClearKote Moose wax specifically says to top with ClearKote Wax (not moose) so I was thinking it could be one of those?
 


It's been too long, Im glad you guys are here.

[gipraw]

Based on what you have available, I would do two coats of the EX-P, then top with a single, very thin coat of #16

I would disagree with Steve a bit on the claying .. since you already have some issues, at this point protection is more of a concern than correction, and the benefits of sealing a clean surface outweigh the possibility of increased marring that clay introduces..

Just my two cents. 

[attworth]

Based on what you have available, I would do two coats of the EX-P, then top with a single, very thin coat of #16

I would disagree with Steve a bit on the claying .. since you already have some issues, at this point protection is more of a concern than correction, and the benefits of sealing a clean surface outweigh the possibility of increased marring that clay introduces..

Just my two cents.

Gip,

Would you recommend any special cure times on the EXP? Im guessing 24 hours on the second coat?

The Jeep is down for a T/O bearing right now so I'll be doing this outside. Wonder if 24 hours outside will be bad.

[sscully]

Doug does have a point.  If the finish is screwed, the chance of adding more to it should not be a concern.  It is only a chance.

As for wax on a pad on a PC part, the contaminates are bonded to the paint.  That is why you are using clay, to remove them.  If the pad would remove them and drag it around, the wash mitt would have gotten it. 
Think of it as the sliver in the finger analogy.  You can wash it all day long, chances of you getting the sliver out by washing alone are very slim, but get a pair of tweezers out and it comes right out.

[gipraw]

Gip,

Would you recommend any special cure times on the EXP? Im guessing 24 hours on the second coat?

The Jeep is down for a T/O bearing right now so I'll be doing this outside. Wonder if 24 hours outside will be bad.

12-24 hours, depending on temp and humidity should be good. 

[Blown F-150]

It might come down to personal preference, but I prefer to Clay before waxing. I always figured that it would leave a better "prepped" surface and therefore the wax or sealant would last longer.

[Merlin]

If it was me I wouldn't worry with it right now (besides a protection coating) until you have time to do it right.
Whether you use PB EX-P sealant or apply any of the waxes you already have you are just delaying the correction.

When you do the correction process then I would give it the clean the paint, polish the paint, seal the paint full Magilla.