Optimum MF cutting & polishing pads

[sscully]

I have been working a test on solid surface counter material, to get an idea of what the MF cutting and polishing pads and different polishes do with it.

I will update the solid surface test once I get a chance later to do the other half, and show the 50 - 50 with SIP on Opti MF cutting pad and 106 on Opti MF polishing pad vs Opti Hyper Compound on the Opti MF cutting pad and Hyper polish on Opti MF polishing pad.

I have been slowly removing defects from Nikki's G6.  Prior to me it looks the towel that was dipped in silica sand prior to drying the paint.  Straight line scratches on the Hood, roof and trunk.  The trunk also looks like someone ( next car in a parking lot ) used it for a table.

I had been slowly working my way through the defects, going a little at a time.  Benn working, but I figure now is the time to actually start with solid defect removal process.

I was working it a few weeks back with PB products and LC foam pads, got quite a bit out of it, and learned quite a bit about the supposition that I had on PB products ( PP vs SSR line ).
The reason for the history, is to inform, this is not my first try at this, and I have basically been using the 120 grit sand paper method of turning a 4x4 into a 2x4.  It works, it is a lot faster to use a saw.

Having experimented with the Opti MF pads on solid surface material and just got my Hyper combo, I figured time to tackle the trunk of the G6 ( I'll get back to the sink cut out later ).

I started with a Opti MF Polishing Pad and Hyper Polish.
Primed the pad with Hyper Polish ( might have had a hair too much on there ) and set the speed to 5 ( from RR's  confession ).

I already ONR'd the car yesterday, so it was clean.  Took a quick Clay of the trunk deck ( Meg blue is what I grabbed first ) using FD-51 as the lube.

I spent ~ 12 min total to do 2 complete passes over the trunk ( make the passes, wipe down, check go back for a 2nd round ).  I only cleaned the MF pad after the trunk was done ( it is ~ 17" x 48" ), more on that down the post.

WOW !! 
All the time spent playing with pads and PB products, and this squared up 99.5% of the defects in no time flat.  Quick as quick can be, glad I did not start with a opti MF cutting pad and Hyper compound.  There are only 2 marks that I have to really go looking for to find them now.  Mind you it was a hunt and peck to find the defects before, but 3 halogen work lights on the trunk, and I now really have to go looking.  Under the 96" SP35 bulb fixture ( right over the trunk ) I could not find the 2 marks.

For a daily driver, I am going to call this done.   
Post IPA wipe down, I used 845 on it ( no glaze cheating ) and the Electric blue paint has a nice new bright gloss to it.




Now that I have a good feel for how Opti MF polish pads and Opti Hyper polish work on paint, I think I can try the Megs MF system on the roof as a compare. 
This I am going to treat as 3 sections, and clean the MF pads 3 times instead of 1.
I am going to try it on the Flex 1st, I got the 6" kit, and these are made ( per Megs ) for the Flex and air equipment.  the 5" kit is for PC, Megs and GG DAs.  See what happens.

NOTE : Cleaning Opti MF pads.
- Do not use hot water in the Pad cleaner with the rotary on 1500 RPM, like a LC pad !!
I trashed the edge of the MF material ( strings ) on the foam backing, and it peeled off.  I think I am going to stick with the PC for cleaning these, and keep the OPM down.
- This is my 2nd time cleaning this MF pad, so I am going to call it a repeated abuse case.

I am a bit overboard about cleaning my pads, so this is a case of watch out if you are the same way, care is needed not to separate the foam from the MF material.

Next post, once I get a chance, is going to be on the Solid surface and 50 - 50 with Menz products.

Next on the list will be PB products on the opti MF pads.

[sscully]

Got up this AM, had a con call get canceled so I got a wild hair in my rear, and went after testing the Megs MF DA 6" kit on the hood of the truck.  Heated the garage up to 69* ( 22* out for some damn reason, going to be 55* tomorrow - did I mention I am in  Chicago :lol: )

I had a few lines on the hood that have not really been bothering me that much, but I know exactly where they are ( guessing dirty QD cleaning ).

The truck was not dirty ( just ONR'd on SAT / SUN ).

Used the 30:2 'pre soak" spray that I have just to clean the hood and front fenders again.
Megs mild clay and my FD-51 lube, clay the hood and front fenders
30:2 ONR wipe again ( belt and suspenders action )

Figured I would start with the "wax" and the Megs MF pad.
- AG instructional video w/ megs, note as made that if the paint is not bad, you can go right to this step.

The marks that are on the hood are similar, and none long enough to 50-50 over.  I use the term similar as to me they look the same, but I have no way to know if they are exact.  Close enough for visual in my book.

I got "in there" on priming the pad, I made sure to have a good even distribution of product prior to touching the paint with it.  Figured get the best foot forward on this test.

6" MF Megs Black pad on Flex, I set the speed to 4 ( using the G110V2 speed setting and the pass speed from the video ).  I figured I should use the defect removal speed with the "wax" for removing minor stuff.
I made 3 passes total ( I use a double back pattern and each pass is perpendicular to the last  ) and removed the product.  The  wax came off very easy, so that is correct.  Using the Flex with the 6" kit, I did not have any issues with usage.  Flex did not seem to want to walk anymore than normal, seemed similar to using the Opit MF polish pads and Opti hyper polish on the G6 yesterday.

Once the product was off the paint, went to the area that the marks in this test section were in, still there.  No noticeable improvement.  OK, time to clean the MF black pad in the pad washer so it can dry while I do the compound step and time to follow the full process.

Put on the Megs maroon MF pad and used the compound product from the kit.  Again got in there and primed the pad by hand prior to touching the paint. Flex speed 4 ( using the same G110V2 speeds from the video ).

Flex with the maroon pad and MF DA kit compound seemed to want to walk a bit more.  Just something to keep an eye on, it will start out fine, but by end of 1st pass, the walking will want to start being a bit more noticeable

Did 2 passes ( double back motion and perpendicular to the previous pass ).   Remove the product from the paint, it is easy removal as advertised.

Defects gone, but the shine is through an opaque veil.  A muted shine to it.  Not shocked by this, I did just perform a compound of some kind.

Back to the MF black pad and the "wax".  Prime the new pad ( used the 2nd pad, 1st was not dry ) same as the first, get in there with my fingers and work it in every area for 100% coverage, but not soaking it.  Flex speed setting 3 and used the pass speed in the video.
2 passes of the wax.
Still easy usage, no abnormal walking of the pad ( flex will want to walk if you do not keep the pad flat ).
Once off, the shine is there, the opaque veil is somewhat gone, but not really to my untrained eye.  I am comparing this to the other side of the hood, which was clayed, but prior it had been PB PP to death and had Black hole, EX and 4 layers of Natty's blue - BH on it prior to today's clay routine.  What was left on the paint is unknown, but the shine is not the same to me.

For what I see at the target consumer of the Megs MF DA kit:
That person that has taken a level of care to their vehicle, but now wants to get into detailing a bit deeper, and remove defects so the paint looks better.  They would be switching from hand application of LSP, maybe have used a Scratch-X by hand for some bad marks, but now wants to step up.
If this is the target consumer, they are going to be pleased with the results, and would not know that there is a muted shine on the car now, they would just see a 90% defect free vehicle in a short amount of time. 

2nd half of the hood, Opti test section.  Similar marks / defects.
Things are not that bad on the hood, so I start out with Opti Polishing MF pads and Opti Hyper Polish.  Same prime to the new Opti Mf polish pad ( read the previous post, I trashed the one I used yesterday in the cleaning - more on cleaning down this post ).
Still following RR's confession of speed 5 usage, went after the untouched side of the hood.

I made 5 passes in total, same double back pattern in the pass, perpendicular to the previous pass.
Remove product from the hood.  Opti Hyper polish does not come off as easy as the Megs MF compound or "wax".
Once I do a wipe down, marks are gone in one step.

I blow off the Opti MF polishing pad, add some product back to it, and go after the Megs MF DA kit side.  2 passes on the panel, remove product, it removes the opaque veil that was there.  Now it is defect free and back to what I call ready for the next step.

Summary.
Megs MF DA 6" kit worked with the Flex.

Opti MF polishing pad and Opti Hyper Polish is more aggressive than the Megs MF DA kit "wax" & black MF pad, and I would say is on par with the compound in the Megs MF DA kit, but finishes better.  Almost a one step minor defect correction ready for LSP.

I did not have to use the Opti Mf cutting Pad and Opti Hyper Compound, it did not call for it.

NOTE1: Product color tint to pads.
If you do this test, watch the product colors & pads when you grab a pad.
I almost put Hyper Compound & a cutting pad to my hood instead of the polish pair.  Megs and Opti are reverse colors for the products.
Megs MF DA kit "wax" & Opti Hyper Compound = Blue tint on the pads.
Megs MF DA kit compound & Opti Hyper polish = red tint on the pads.

This is if you do the quick look and grab that I did.
Opti MF pads follow a LC pad color scheme, yellow foam base is cutting, white foam base is polish.  Megs uses the Megs color codes of maroon and black in the foam base.

NOTE2: Cleaning MF pads.
I used the flex ( that is what I had out ) to clean them in a grit guard pad washer. 
Speed 3 and I had to hold the pad over the fluid pump holes in the top of the cups, and press on the grit guard with my hand to get the pad wet.  the Flex is a low profile that does not work as well as the PC or the rotary with the extension on it.
it worked, but I think I will just get the PC out in the future when cleaning the MF pads.  Just works easier, and I think the lack of forced rotation will help with me not pealing the MF material off the foam backing again.

Off to dig out my 7.5 LC VC black pad to run PO85rd over everything. I get to use this pad now, got it when I did not know any better for the PC from Proper Auto Care ( yes that old ).

Thanks for making it to the end, any question let me know.

Steve