IronX - Usage or Suggestions

[sscully]

Did a search on IronX and Iron and only found 1 thread with it referenced .

Is this something that I should keep on hand for neglected vehicles, or stick with just using clay ?

The more I read threads at AG, the more I think this is one of those politics - religion - philosophy topics. 
One is either a true believer of it, or thinks it is monkey business and skulduggery that is taken care of with normal steps.

Just doing more prep work for my sisters car.  It is 10 years old, and never had serious paint work done to it ( she might smear some wax around on it every year ).

[Too Stroked]

Steve,

I just bought some IronCut from Detailer's Domain. I'm assuming it's pretty similar stuff. (Oh, and it smells simply awful.) I bought it for a vehicle that had gone metal to metal on the front brakes and have yet to try it.

As for absolutely having to use it, I'm not sold on that one yet. I think clay will get you 95% of the benifits unless you've got a really special case.

[sscully]

It was posts from Detailer's Domain over at the other site that caused me to start looking into it.  They seem to use it on every car they show in threads over there.

Don't know if this is by design for SOP or if they only happen to show only vehicles that need it.

Thanks for the info, I thought clay was doing what I needed it to do, and Iron Cut / IronX was just another step in the process, that some say takes just as long if not longer than working the paint with clay only.

Not too sure if I buy the "open the pores" statement some make about Iron cut ( other sites ).  Paint is like skin now ??

[Too Stroked]

Not too sure if I buy the "open the pores" statement some make about Iron cut ( other sites ).  Paint is like skin now ??

Well, theoretically, paint does have pores. That's one of the ways rust starts. It's also how the solvent carrier escapes during curing.

Personally, I think proper washing, claying and polishing removes more than enough surface contaminates on most vehicles. For very special cases - like the metal on metal brake fallout I've got to work on - special products are needed. If I don't remove the iron particles there first, hitting the surface with a polishing pad will be just like using a sanding disk.

[sscully]

Well, theoretically, paint does have pores. That's one of the ways rust starts. It's also how the solvent carrier escapes during curing. ...<snip>...

That part I understand, else how do red cars turn pink with neglect.
IronX can make the pores larger so metal can come out easier ?
That part does not sound right to me, as it would be changing the shape of something that is already cured.
This is the tag line I read for why Iron Cut or Ironx instead of using Red ( or Purple as RR posted about ) clay only.

Personally, I think proper washing, claying and polishing removes more than enough surface contaminates on most vehicles. For very special cases - like the metal on metal brake fallout I've got to work on - special products are needed. If I don't remove the iron particles there first, hitting the surface with a polishing pad will be just like using a sanding disk.

I can see how this would happen, just like going right to polish instead of washing and claying first.?