PC 7424 vs. Flex XC 3401 - Video

[Boss_429]

Well, here's my 2 cents

First, while I'm not a big fan of the PC (or similar machines), for the occasional weekend detailer who just want's to get his/her vehicle looking better every once and a while, the PC is certainly a good choice. I guess using all types of rotary buffers for over 40 years has spoiled me.

Now, for the person who details his/her personal vehicles frequently and wants to detail a few vehicles on the side, the Flex is a better choice. It will do more paint correction in half the time.

For the person who wants to detail a lot of vehicles, or possibly become a professional detailer, or needs to do SERIOUS paint correction, a rotary is a must. As a matter of fact, that person should have a least two rotary buffers.

For most of the folks that visit this forum, I would recommend getting a Flex buffer and a rotary buffer. Then, use the Flex to learn how various types of paint react to more serious paint correction and work their way into the rotary.

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For those of you thinking about a rotary...

Slowly at first, confine the use of the rotary to nice flat panels without a lot of seams or contours in the panels.

Become proficient at taping of edges, trim, and covering places where you don't want any "sling". By doing one or two easy flat panels, you won't have a lot of taping/covering to do, and you will get the handle on the proper taping/covering technique.

Even after taping off these areas stay away from them.

Start out with slower speeds (800 - 1000 RPM), and keep the machine moving.

Move the machine a bit faster than you would a PC.

Always, always, prime the pad first.

Use mild polishes and mild pads to start.

At first, use a little more polish than you think. Of course, using to much polish is not the best thing, but it's much better than using too little. As you become more proficient, you will get be able to judge just how much polish is the right amount for the area you are working.

Don't go over seams on one panel to the next panel (or any abrupt edges or big changes in contours in the panel).

Don't apply any downward pressure to the machine. Let the machine, pad, and polish do the work. As you become more experienced with the machine, you will know when, and how much downward pressure you can apply. 

Don't try and get into every kook and crannie. As you become more experienced, you'll get a little braver and you will start getting closer to areas that require caution. (like mirrors, door handles etc.) A rotary can get away from you pretty easy... the result is a damaged area.

Learn how to use a spurring tool to remove excess polish. Don't be afraid to change the pad if it becomes to saturated or dirty. (Don't forget to prime a clean, fresh pad.

Here's a big one... don't use a little common sense... use a LOT of common sense.

Another big one... don't try and judge your results by your first couple of sessions. After all, you should be going about it easy, and just trying to get a feel for the machine, and not trying to polish out wet sanding marks ;D. It won't take long for you to become more aggressive in your approach. At that point, you'll start seeing some significant results.

Lastly, practice on junk (or the wife car ;D ) first.

There are some other points that I've left out at this stage, either because it would be information "overload", or there are just things I take for granted and don't realize the impact.

Hopefully, this will help some folks, and hopefully, some others will chime in with some other starter tips.

I'm going ATV'ing now!  ;D ;D ;D

[leedriver]

Well, here's my 2 cents

First, while I'm not a big fan of the PC (or similar machines), for the occasional weekend detailer who just want's to get his/her vehicle looking better every once and a while, the PC is certainly a good choice. I guess using all types of rotary buffers for over 40 years has spoiled me.

Now, for the person who details his/her personal vehicles frequently and wants to detail a few vehicles on the side, the Flex is a better choice. It will do more paint correction in half the time.

For the person who wants to detail a lot of vehicles, or possibly become a professional detailer, or needs to do SERIOUS paint correction, a rotary is a must. As a matter of fact, that person should have a least two rotary buffers.

Boss, first off, GREAT post. Lot's of good information and knowledge there...

I think those three lines above could almost be the 3-step program to detailing. 1) beginner, 2) intermediate, 3) pro   Excellent comparison of the three tools and how one intends to use them.

Based on those words above, I would put myself into category #2. I have 4 cars myself and like to keep them clean often, and I can see myself doing a vehicle or two on the side somewhere down the road for sure. I also see where there could be a lot of potential to screw up some paint with a high speed. My biggest fear of them was exactly what you mentioned: contours and edges. I could see how learning on a hood or another flat surface might not be too bad, but the tight spots could be more than tricky I'm sure.

Overall I think I would definitely want to spend some time with someone who really knows their way around the rotary before diving into one myself. At least to see some techniques and get some pointers if nothing else. My gut feel at this point would be to continue with my PC and look into getting a Flex in the near future. I do have 3 sizes of backing plates for my PC now (3.5", 5", and 6") and various pads to go along with them (4", 5.5", and 6.5"), so I have plenty to practice with and see what each setup will do. Maybe I should get a truck thats not black!! lol

Thank you very much though for the info and advice, thats why I love this site  :thumbsiup: :thumbsiup:

[Boss_429]

Thank you very much though for the info and advice, thats why I love this site  :thumbsiup: :thumbsiup:

No problem... and I think it's a pretty good choice in your case. 

Keep in mind that a Flex comes close to a rotary in terms of paint correction when the Flex is run at higher speeds with aggressive pad/polish combination's. However, also keep in mind that it starts approaching the same care required with a rotary when using those combination's.

Got to rest now... my butt is sore from ATV'ing. ;D ;D ;D

[tdr6874]

just some more food for thought....and to make the choice harder....

points to think about with a rotary.

just because it can go high speed does not mean that is how you have to use it...you can back this thing down in speed and use the varible speed switch and make it as or more gentle than a da since the da is on or off...the rotary is really a 0-3500 rpm machine, you can spin it at 1 rpm.

i think a rotary can do any thing a da or flex can do and do things they cant do....

going on flat pannels to start, but once you get your stlye of using it you will learn how to work up to an edge and be safe about it.....kick the pad up in a slight angle and make sure the edge of the pad is rotating off the pannel and not into the pannel.  never start the machine in mid air and the put on the paint, always start machine with the pad on the paint.

where two pannels meet, most can be opened...like a trunk and fender, or tail gate, or door or hood...just open these enought to raise one pannel over the other to keep the pad from rolling over and digging into the adjacent pannel...example, pop the hood place a terry or old towel that has been folded over in the latch area to keep it from closing then work the hood, then open the hood all the way and work the tops of the fenders keeping the rotary on slight angle making sure that the pad is cutting and falling off the paint and not kicking into the paint....

these tips will make a rotary very safe.  i think it is the best machine for paint corrections from minor to severe

[leedriver]

Sounds like each machine has its advantages and disavantages. I can definitely see pro's and con's of each as well. And, it would be nice to have both and try them out for myself.

I would love to see both machines in action by an experienced user before deciding, but I'm not sure that is an option. Any one near Dayton, OH?? lol

Thanks for the info guys  :thumbsiup:

[leedriver]

Been looking over this thread some more, and there is a lot of good information in here..... I wanted to bounce a few more things off you guys though....

2 con's I see with the Flex:

1) Price compared to a Makita. $280 is the best on the Flex, found the 9227c for $170....
2) Backing plate options. The flex has a proprietary head and backing plate, where as on a rotary there are tons of options. Correct me if I'm wrong, but could I not use all my backing plates for my PC with an adapter on a rotary?? Any of you guys use the Edge 2K adapter and pads?


Also, running a rotary slower sounds like it is safer than high speeds..... How fast does the Flex spin? I know it also orbits, but was wondering where it stood speed-wise... I don't really want to be scared of a rotary and know that the only way to learn is to get one.

Thoughts?