This is why i haven't been around..

[Mike2301]

Spacers seem to be the way to go but...If spacers mount above the shock spring unit why do they stiffen the ride if the springs arent affected?  I like the Blisteins especially in corners but they are a firmer stiffer ride than stock.

Watching them do the alignment, there appeared to be 1 adjustment for camber and that is an oblong hole in the frame.  My adjustment bolt was at the end of it's travel to 1 side and I still had quite a bit of positive camber on 1 wheel which made the truck pull to the right fairly hard (Never had any front end damage).  If I go up again im going to have to address that issue.
What do cams do and where do they go?

The spacers shorten the travel a little bit, making it just a tad bit stiffer

Cams go in the bottom of the control arm pocket. Some people also enlarge the oblong hole for more adjustment, but i wouldn't recommend that. I think they were in a hurry or didn't know what they were doing. I do alignments everyday. In other words, there's no reason your truck should be pulling 

[Old Dogg™]

The spacers shorten the travel a little bit, making it just a tad bit stiffer

Cams go in the bottom of the control arm pocket. Some people also enlarge the oblong hole for more adjustment, but i wouldn't recommend that. I think they were in a hurry or didn't know what they were doing. I do alignments everyday. In other words, there's no reason your truck should be pulling 

Understand spacers better now...thanks!

Sorry to hijack your post so bad but your photos and narrative gave me comfort asking you suspension question.
Cams seem to be the answer but dont understand why im the only one with this problem.
Here is a photo of the adjustment bolt that will go no further.  Here with 1" lift I was still positive camber with a pull to the right.

Other side still had room but adjusted to specs.

Shocks back down to stock height before alignment.

1" lift ruff ride

The shop is kinda old school but their skills are good.  I watched and they explained all thru the lift.
Thanks for the knowledge and info.

[Mike2301]

No problem bud

I'd get it realigned.. and rotate your tires though

I'll try to take a picture of my cams so you can see. Camber, depending how bad it is, will wear your tires out. Caster won't but it will make the truck pull.

Specs only mean so much though..I have my caster at 4.2 degrees i think.. That's out of "spec"

You sure that's only 1"? Looks awful high

[attworth]

That does look like more than 1". When I lifted my 150, I used the bigger spacer (2.5"?) I ran it without getting it aligned for probably 6 months (stupid, poor college kid - not much changes.) When I took it in, it was only off a few degrees of camber. Didn't make a bit of difference when I drove it.

I'd highly recommend the spacer route.

Oh, and Mike, do you have finished pics of the dime yet?

[Mike2301]

Not much progress has been made. It took forever to get the parts in, and then we started having family problems so it got put on the back burner.

If he doesn't leave me alone about it, it'll be out of my garage sitting on cinderblocks somewhere soon 

[Old Dogg™]

No problem bud

I'd get it realigned.. and rotate your tires though

I'll try to take a picture of my cams so you can see. Camber, depending how bad it is, will wear your tires out. Caster won't but it will make the truck pull.

Specs only mean so much though..I have my caster at 4.2 degrees i think.. That's out of "spec"

You sure that's only 1"? Looks awful high

I got alot of bum dope when I decided to lift with the shock over spacers....strange I get better advice from a detailing forum than a certain suspension section on a truck forum... 

Realignment and rotation done. 
When it was up 1" on the Blisteins shock from stock, while it was up on the lift I tried to swing/bounce on the front tow pendants from underneath and on the running boards...ect.  No truck suspension movement.  If I drove slow over little bumps the front would have a little double bounce and over big bumps I swear the front wheels were breaking contact with the road.  It was like I was on springs with no shock dampening.

That does look like more than 1". When I lifted my 150, I used the bigger spacer (2.5"?) I ran it without getting it aligned for probably 6 months (stupid, poor college kid - not much changes.) When I took it in, it was only off a few degrees of camber. Didn't make a bit of difference when I drove it.

I'd highly recommend the spacer route.

I measured the shock distance from stock to the middle 1" adjustment, the shock spring pack, 1" longer than stock but I had a minimum of an 1.5" lift with shock installed.  Even at the stock setting im a minimum of .5" higher with the Blisteins.

Im going to either go with the shortest spacer I can find or a 1" shorter block in the back.

Would 305-55-20 (33") tires make any difference.

[attworth]

What size are you on now?

I'd seriously consider getting a spacer. From my understanding, 150 springs aren't meant to be compressed.

I ran the tall spacer on my 2wd, and fit 34's. It rode like stock besides the higher rated tires.

[Mike2301]

What size tires are you running? I'm guessing 6 ply tires at least. How much air do you run, and what tires are they?

I would just do what attworth did and get the 2 inch spacer, and a block to the rear to level it out.

[Old Dogg™]

Originally I was running 305-50-20 (32")Toyo Proxes S/T's (40 psi).  They were pretty hard tires from the start and I never really liked the ride.  After changing the shocks and driving a bit on the Proxes I put on 305-55-20 (33.2") (40 psi) Cooper Zeons which are smother softer running tires but either the tires or the lift caused problems with the alignment on 1 wheel which gave me the pull to the right.  After I put the shock on the stock setting all was well again but I still sit higher (.5 minimum) in the front than with the original shocks.
Go figure. 
Wouldn't shorter blocks in the rear do the same as a spacer in the front if I don't care about being higher just more level? 
Since the springs shouldn't really be compressed with the 04-08 models why couldn't I find 1 complaint in a F-150 suspension forum?
Most claim the ride is fine...even after compressing the springs 2"?

[attworth]

Originally I was running 305-50-20 (32")Toyo Proxes S/T's (40 psi).  They were pretty hard tires from the start and I never really liked the ride.  After changing the shocks and driving a bit on the Proxes I put on 305-55-20 (33.2") (40 psi) Cooper Zeons which are smother softer running tires but either the tires or the lift caused problems with the alignment on 1 wheel which gave me the pull to the right.  After I put the shock on the stock setting all was well again but I still sit higher (.5 minimum) in the front than with the original shocks.
Go figure.  
Wouldn't shorter blocks in the rear do the same as a spacer in the front if I don't care about being higher just more level?  
Since the springs shouldn't really be compressed with the 04-08 models why couldn't I find 1 complaint in a F-150 suspension forum?
Most claim the ride is fine...even after compressing the springs 2"?

I think a lot of people who run them put them in with their 6-8" lifts. The springs that come in those kits (if any,) may be designed much differently from the stock 150 springs. I'm not sure. All I know is I've always heard to never compress the springs on them. It's pretty similar to cutting springs on a Honda. If you've ever seen them driving down the street, you can imagine how hard it must be riding in it.

If you're just going for level and not really looking for a lift, you could just bring the back end down.

My truck was a freak, so take this with a grain of salt - but I ran my 34's without the lift, after alignment. No rubs, ever, no cutting, nothing.

[Old Dogg™]

I think a lot of people who run them put them in with their 6-8" lifts. The springs that come in those kits (if any,) may be designed much differently from the stock 150 springs. I'm not sure. All I know is I've always heard to never compress the springs on them. It's pretty similar to cutting springs on a Honda. If you've ever seen them driving down the street, you can imagine how hard it must be riding in it.

If you're just going for level and not really looking for a lift, you could just bring the back end down.

My truck was a freak, so take this with a grain of salt - but I ran my 34's without the lift, after alignment. No rubs, ever, no cutting, nothing.

Well,
From first hand experience I would agree with NEVER compressing the springs on the stock 04-08's.  Looking at the setup it looks more like the front shocks are really struts and I should have known better...but I read so many success stories. 
Like I said before, good advice comes from the strangest places (Detailing Forum) sometimes...

I considered getting 305-60-20's (34.4") but the price jump and tire selection always backed me off but I think they would fit my stock 4X4...Wrangler Silent Armor will probably be my next set after I put 60k or so on the Coopers.

Thanks to all for the knowledge and insight.