The Detailers Cafe
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rollingrock on November 28, 2017, 01:22:11 AM
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So the reason I posted this obscure post over at F150 was to see who was really paying attention but it is a serious topic for those of us with the affliction.
I have told people who bring me cars/trucks, you can live and die by the light, work yourself into a total panic or over the top OCD person by using lights to correct.
As we all know, those that remain here, tried and true is a basic rule and while I love LED lighting, I just did a weekend of prep, and ready under LED's and found them nice for lighting but not for detail work. So while it sucks to have hot ass Halogen's they just produce in my opinion a better working color temp. It's better on the eyes too.
For basic correction, I found myself using my sungun on my paint...spot checking my work. The LED's became just a source of light, just like my overheads but not a tool I could use for checking progress on troubled areas etc.
The perfect example I could give, when using the Optimum Gloss Coat (the working mans version of Opti-Coat) I found the LED's not able to allow me to see the product going on and flashing. I had to turn the light off and use my sun gun. It was very frustrating and nerve racking as I couldn't see the high spots.
So again, while I love LED for its many uses and applications, until they come out with a powerful version 2500-2700K temp replacement (at 800+ R Lumens), I am going to stick to getting a tan under my halogens.
Discuss.....
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I converted my twin tube 8' 3500K FL tubes to dual twin 4' LEDs, but I still use the halogens mounted on the garage track to do serious detail work.
I can notice door dings much easier with the LED conversion kits I got and I can do minor polish and LSP applications but going beyond 80% corrected I use halogen heads.
Here is a picture of the light head mounted to a swivel plate I made in the top of the picture.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zhsoODj4p7pqWsotkNtwdpWKhk29Ij9ggxmHl_HiYwRNsQiILWarIOrTESLzeQpM3QJJUI_4xZhIEM4h5zzGMvTGtGHbsnu0UJBVbsI6e7M-Ys0-eon_f6-Nd9jzNfJwUfIR-IIZrg=w868-h651-no)
I think part of your problem is the fixture you selected.
Color spectrum @ 5000K is too high in the spectrum for detail work and the beam pattern on them is not the best and it is pushing too much lumen output for that low of a ceiling at 17,300 lm output.
It is a light flame thrower on the floor
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/bcd829c845e7720ffa65afaa0d7ae900.jpg)
If you look at the little lighting data they provide, those are on a 16' high ceiling, so it appears you are not getting the full spread and creating a hot spot.
(https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/linear-light-bar-ies-file-comparison.jpg)
If your camera on auto was shutting down, you had too much lumen which means on the top or side of a vehicle you were making yourself snow blind; that is why you are having problems with your eyes.
You might want to start over with the garage lights and have a lighting layout done to get the correct lumen output and pattern for the ceiling height you have.
- I know you don't want to hear this a 2nd time.... :dunno:
You can use a extension ring on the center stumble light location to convert to surface mounted pipe to put the lights where they need to be.
- double check your electrical code, it is legit up here with the N.E.C version they use.
If you are staying at this house, take the pain now and cut the drywall to pipe behind it.
Also add in some outlets in the ceiling to aid in extension cord management for detailing.
- Place them by the angle iron for the overhead door so you can velcro strap them to it so you don't pull the cord out of the outlet.
Sorry I still have the same opinion from last year....
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Man, that was a lot to digest Steve :uugly:
Ok, let me be a little more clear.
I am talking about these kinds of lights
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200679035_200679035 (https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200679035_200679035)
vs Halogen
I love you found that old picture from that shot...I have moved that light to a different location and replaced both the left and right bay with proper overhead lighting.
Sorry if my post was confusing and I used the wrong terms for lights.
And yes, I do have a 350+ LED light from SuperBrightLED that I am not getting the full use out of it. That mistake is all on me. I am considering bucking up and replacing my lights to the BigAss Lights.
https://www.haikuhome.com/learn-more-about-garage-light (https://www.haikuhome.com/learn-more-about-garage-light)
I do like that Ceiling mount you made with your Halogens. I could easily convert my ceiling mounts to plugs. Have since added Superbright 4ft LED's in each bay and moved the dumb light to the 3rd bay.
Bought 2 of these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-t8-tubes-replacement-bulbs/t8-led-vapor-proof-light-fixture-with-4-t8-tubes-industrial-led-light-4-long/3729/#/attributes/11586 (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-t8-tubes-replacement-bulbs/t8-led-vapor-proof-light-fixture-with-4-t8-tubes-industrial-led-light-4-long/3729/#/attributes/11586)
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Sorry I went back to the LEd lighting you had last year; my mistake.
That Northern Tool LED work light @ 8000 lumen is a bit bright for getting up close to the paint.
That would the equivalent of the same twin head design, each with a 500W bulb installed going lumen for lumen.
If you are good with using a 1000 W dual head, next is the color temp. The NT one is 4000 K where the halogen is going to be 2900 to 3000 K color temp. That is going to wear on your eyes up close.
- I use one on each side of the vehicle when detailing and a smaller one at the front and rear when doing the hood.
Those LED work lights are good for lighting up a job site and not much else in my book.
- Too much lumen at a higher CCT value.
I'd pass on trying to use that NT one for doing 90% + defect removal and for sure when applying a coating and trying to see if it flashed level or not.
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...<snip>...I am considering bucking up and replacing my lights to the BigAss Lights.
https://www.haikuhome.com/learn-more-about-garage-light (https://www.haikuhome.com/learn-more-about-garage-light)
...<snip>...
I finally got a chance to dig into these garage lights and to sum it up : Don't.
Those are 13,000 lumen @ 4,000 K ( or 5,000 K depending on which one you order ) so they are going to be about as useful as the NT work light stand when it comes to detailing.
They do not show any data on the light output ( at least SuperBrightLED gave you that ) so I cannot tell how bad it would be at the hood level, but I would guess the same as the NT work lights.
Go find some 4' or 8' LED FL replacement fixtures ( the big mfgrs all have them now ready to go with no power supplies ) to install that are in the 3000 K color temp range.
You need to watch your lumen output with that low of a ceiling.
- Those 10,000 lumen and above fixtures you keep looking at, you are going to walk outside in JUN at high noon and wonder why it is so dark outside...
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...<snip>...I am considering bucking up and replacing my lights to the BigAss Lights.
https://www.haikuhome.com/learn-more-about-garage-light (https://www.haikuhome.com/learn-more-about-garage-light)
...<snip>...
- Those 10,000 lumen and above fixtures you keep looking at, you are going to walk outside in JUN at high noon and wonder why it is so dark outside...
This is Jason you're talking to. Making the mid day sun look dim isn't even good enough.
This thread is killing me because my garage lights are complete trash. I want to bring in an electrician friend and have all new lights put in but I don't know what I want to go with. I have those conversion tubes in the kitchen with the ballasts bypassed. I sometimes don't even like turning the kitchen lights on. Instant day time.
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This is Jason you're talking to. Making the mid day sun look dim isn't even good enough.
This thread is killing me because my garage lights are complete trash. I want to bring in an electrician friend and have all new lights put in but I don't know what I want to go with. I have those conversion tubes in the kitchen with the ballasts bypassed. I sometimes don't even like turning the kitchen lights on. Instant day time.
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I don't know which ones you used ( if it was not the PO that did it ) in the kitchen, but the fixtures that are LED replacements from Kichler, Rab, Metalux or Cooper are not high lumen brutal fixtures. These are built as LED fixtures.
Some of the retro fit kits are 4000 K and above high lumen blinders because they think people ( *cough JP cough * ) want this.
The 4' Sylvania T8 retro fit kits I did in the laundry room ( 2 bulb fixture ) are about the same as SP35 color corrected bulbs when new. SP35 are 3500 K ( depending on the age ).
These are the 1st series ~ 7 years ago and I think the kits I got were 3850 K with similar wattage output, so it had a bit more pop to it off the white walls and white tile floor.
If I am recalling the garage correctly ( this is where the tractor is at ) you don't have the white ceiling and walls to reflect off of and that looked to be a 10' ceiling height instead of the house, so they might not be that bad as general lighting.
- Non painted walls and the bare concrete floor makes a big difference in light not reflecting.
Ask your friend to do a lighting layout, you might be shocked what you put in there just to have general work lighting. He can drop a lumen meter on a milk crate on the floor and tell you what you are getting now ( expect single digits ) and be able to suggest a layout and fixture count and type.
The supply house might be running package deals ( depending on who they carry ) for a package deal but you will need t buy everything in a single order and take delivery by the end of that mfgrs fiscal quarter.
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This is what it looks like now. The single bay is that SuperBright High Bay light and it does work better here with light spillage and reflecting off walls etc.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/8d8d293d887a64f44907bb4ee3948bf9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/25a107b91dd1288634372ae0562c66a0.jpg)
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This is Jason you're talking to. Making the mid day sun look dim isn't even good enough.
This thread is killing me because my garage lights are complete trash. I want to bring in an electrician friend and have all new lights put in but I don't know what I want to go with. I have those conversion tubes in the kitchen with the ballasts bypassed. I sometimes don't even like turning the kitchen lights on. Instant day time.
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I don't know which ones you used ( if it was not the PO that did it ) in the kitchen, but the fixtures that are LED replacements from Kichler, Rab, Metalux or Cooper are not high lumen brutal fixtures. These are built as LED fixtures.
Some of the retro fit kits are 4000 K and above high lumen blinders because they think people ( *cough JP cough * ) want this.
Hang on there a second Steve....I still have some tubes to convert in my house and I will be using appropriate lighting. I will get a shot of what I need to convert.
:)
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These are next
I have to direct wire these I am sure. Just hadn't the time to get to it and I want to change the color temp to 2700-3500. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/750f6bdbc7413d2d6889816a0007be21.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/ad077a07b4313662da7b2cb95db000b9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/8b55049ae920f10f4ea041c3ad8de22c.jpg)
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Are those T8 tubes up there ?
- The kitchen shot almost looks like a puck type light with the hot spot on the ceiling.
BTW : Those lights might be 3500 K, they actually appear higher towards 4000 K.
The ones under the cabinet might be 2850 K.
You might be shocked that it is a switched outlet up there, that is how I did the undercabinet lighting inn my kitchen with the Juno mini track.
- it was uppers and lowers until I put in 42" uppers on an 8' ceiling which means I lost the uppers.
If it is a switched outlet you can look at these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003G9408K?tag=viglink126877-20 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003G9408K?tag=viglink126877-20)
The Patio picture on Amazon is my patio with the white version, they are very bright output.
(https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-non+truck-picture174965-led-lights-amazon-16-4-feet-300-smd-led-flexible-strip.jpg)
They also have a warm white version at 3100 K if you want more yellow than white.
If you want to stick with the white, there are dimmers ( ASIN : B003L4KKF2 ) for them that will tone down how bright they are.
The other option is to do something like the Juno mini track ( trac 12 ) up there and you can install the number of lights to adjust the brightness.
I still have the wedge base bulbs in mine
(http://www.acuitybrands.com/~/media/products/Juno/661609/image/TL201_WH_jpg.ashx?bc=Transparent&as=1&mw=350&hash=6BE93BDA847799813D36C50F0671EC9EEDEA0ADC)
If I did not have the investment already I would look at the LED light heads instead of the wedge base bulbs that I have piles of after removing the top row in the kitchen and changing the under cabinet lighting in the Mrs' office.
I could double my office and the kitchen and still have some spares left over.
The LED come in a series of color temp and wattage ranges form 0.6 W 3000 K to 1.6 W 4000 K.
(http://cdn3.volusion.com/krfyq.gnkuo/v/vspfiles/photos/Juno-TL201LEDX2-3K-WH-1.jpg)
You can even get mini flood lights if you want to put up accent lighting on something from that same track.
(http://cdn3.volusion.com/krfyq.gnkuo/v/vspfiles/photos/Juno-TL103LED-4K-WH-1.jpg)
Next are you changing those recess cans to LED ?
When I redid the kitchen I added 4 recess cans in there and started with the Cree LR6 in each one. I went 3500 K in those on a 4 position dimmer. The LR6 can be dimmed to 5%
Speaking of Cree, they have the Surface Wrap 4' replacement fixtures, those are a good option for the garage in 3000 K, 3500 K or 4000 K also can be dimmed to 5%.
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Are those T8 tubes up there ?
- The kitchen shot almost looks like a puck type light with the hot spot on the ceiling.
BTW : Those lights might be 3500 K, they actually appear higher towards 4000 K.
The ones under the cabinet might be 2850 K.
You might be shocked that it is a switched outlet up there, that is how I did the undercabinet lighting inn my kitchen with the Juno mini track.
- it was uppers and lowers until I put in 42" uppers on an 8' ceiling which means I lost the uppers.
If it is a switched outlet you can look at these.
[url]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003G9408K?tag=viglink126877-20[/url] ([url]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003G9408K?tag=viglink126877-20[/url])
The Patio picture on Amazon is my patio with the white version, they are very bright output.
([url]https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-non+truck-picture174965-led-lights-amazon-16-4-feet-300-smd-led-flexible-strip.jpg[/url])
They also have a warm white version at 3100 K if you want more yellow than white.
If you want to stick with the white, there are dimmers ( ASIN : B003L4KKF2 ) for them that will tone down how bright they are.
The other option is to do something like the Juno mini track ( trac 12 ) up there and you can install the number of lights to adjust the brightness.
I still have the wedge base bulbs in mine
([url]http://www.acuitybrands.com/~/media/products/Juno/661609/image/TL201_WH_jpg.ashx?bc=Transparent&as=1&mw=350&hash=6BE93BDA847799813D36C50F0671EC9EEDEA0ADC[/url])
If I did not have the investment already I would look at the LED light heads instead of the wedge base bulbs that I have piles of after removing the top row in the kitchen and changing the under cabinet lighting in the Mrs' office.
I could double my office and the kitchen and still have some spares left over.
The LED come in a series of color temp and wattage ranges form 0.6 W 3000 K to 1.6 W 4000 K.
([url]http://cdn3.volusion.com/krfyq.gnkuo/v/vspfiles/photos/Juno-TL201LEDX2-3K-WH-1.jpg[/url])
You can even get mini flood lights if you want to put up accent lighting on something from that same track.
([url]http://cdn3.volusion.com/krfyq.gnkuo/v/vspfiles/photos/Juno-TL103LED-4K-WH-1.jpg[/url])
Next are you changing those recess cans to LED ?
When I redid the kitchen I added 4 recess cans in there and started with the Cree LR6 in each one. I went 3500 K in those on a 4 position dimmer. The LR6 can be dimmed to 5%
Speaking of Cree, they have the Surface Wrap 4' replacement fixtures, those are a good option for the garage in 3000 K, 3500 K or 4000 K also can be dimmed to 5%.
All of my lights in this house has been converted to LED, all cans/pars etc...the ONLY lights that haven't been converted are the over cabinet fluorescent lights. The under cab puck's are all converted. Those tube lights are the only thing left to convert. All my architectural lighting is also converted. Front is 120v and rear is 12v. I don't know what a T8 tube is but I suspect I have them. I know it is a combo of 4ft and 2 fit fixtures over the cabinets.
Steve, those rock lights on your patio look awesome. Is that a rope light?
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...<snip>.. I don't know what a T8 tube is but I suspect I have them. I know it is a combo of 4ft and 2 fit fixtures over the cabinets. ...<snip>...
T8 is a fluorescent tube.
(http://www.mirabella.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Flourescent-T8-tube-c.jpg)
If it a single tube fixture it still might be a cord on the fixture or wired with greenfield flex to a box or the flex goes into the wall directly from the fixture.
If it hardwired to a surface box or the flex is direct to the fixture, change it over to an outlet so you can change it at will in the future.
Easy enough to flip the switch off, take apart the fixture and reuse the fitting from the fixture to a 1900 style surface box with a garvin cover for the outlet
Greenfield flex
(http://www.magnatron.org/uploads/7/7/6/0/77608990/s441774326270035273_p645_i1_w300.jpeg)
Fitting to a box or direct to the fixture
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31Pq0FGa6xL.jpg)
1900 box
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/c46cda1b-4356-4156-a4a4-c0a012e229d0/svn/boxes-brackets-521511234-50r-64_1000.jpg)
garvin cover ( common name or a brand that used to make them ).
(https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVFe5.jpg)
If you are going to have someone do this, the names I use are from the electrical trade up here and somewhat dated; so don't be shocked if you ask an electrician ( that is not 5 + decades old ) and he has no clue what you are talking about. Show him the pictures... :redneck:
If you want to do a WebEx with video I can step you through this, it is not as bad as it seems.
It is not like you are as bad with electrical as Brad is.
Brad still has the #4 & #5 all time threads by reply count in the electrical subforum over at F150OL behind intermittent odometer display sticky, door ajar sticky and radio stays on threads.
...<snip>...Steve, those rock lights on your patio look awesome. Is that a rope light?
That lighting it a LED on foil in a plastic channel that is siliconed to the brick.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51QboCeY4uL.jpg)
I got 6 years out of it up here before I LEDs started to go out. I replaced it earlier this year and added some to the tip behind the wall. I also added a LED spot to the left side wall as there is on the right ( part can be seen by the tea cup flower pot on the right side ).
It is marked for cutting to length so you can make them shorter if you want to.
The t12 Trac from Juno is another option, that is a small plastic track that uses 12 AWG wire as the power rails ( regular trac uses a flat wire rail on each side ).
It is easy to pull back the wire cut the plastic trac to length and screw terminal the adapters and trim the wire to length.
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/059ac85a-9dbf-488b-b65e-a2694da0b03c/svn/white-juno-tracks-rails-r-4ft-wh-64_400_compressed.jpg)
There are adapters to change to lamp cord ( NOT speaker wire ) so you can make turns and bends with the track.
- I'll get a picture of the kitchen to give you an idea of what it looks like in a bit.
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Pictures definitely help me understand some of your posts. Haha. You're one technical fella.
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Pictures definitely help me understand some of your posts. Haha. You're one technical fella.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
No chit.
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All mine are direct wired.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/6bb21fcdb9e6b92aec11f919225d266d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/47098010c95286cc5d7ffafe0f2ad0df.jpg)
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Pictures definitely help me understand some of your posts. Haha. You're one technical fella.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
It could be I am just a loon and that far out there :funny:
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All mine are direct wired.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/6bb21fcdb9e6b92aec11f919225d266d.jpg)
Are there 3 ( ore more ) lights up there ?
- Wondering why there are 3 Romex feeds to that fixture.
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All mine are direct wired.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/6bb21fcdb9e6b92aec11f919225d266d.jpg)
Are there 3 ( ore more ) lights up there ?
- Wondering why there are 3 Romex feeds to that fixture.
yes, 3 fixtures on each section, all look to be tied into one fixture under the cover.
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yes, 3 fixtures on each section, all look to be tied into one fixture under the cover.
That is easy enough to convert to a surface mounted outlet which would allow you to select which LED lights ( and transformer ) you want to go with.
If you want to try this yourself just need pictures of the other 2 and to get a shopping list for home Depot.
If you have an electrician that you use, he could knock that out quick to get the outlets up there in place of the fixture.
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yes, 3 fixtures on each section, all look to be tied into one fixture under the cover.
That is easy enough to convert to a surface mounted outlet which would allow you to select which LED lights ( and transformer ) you want to go with.
If you want to try this yourself just need pictures of the other 2 and to get a shopping list for home Depot.
If you have an electrician that you use, he could knock that out quick to get the outlets up there in place of the fixture.
Ok, I am in San Fran right now. But the other lights are just wired together using 3 wires. white, black and copper ground. Looks like each bank of lights are wired together in one master light. So I would have to direct wire all the figures and remove the box right?
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Ok, I am in San Fran right now. But the other lights are just wired together using 3 wires. white, black and copper ground. Looks like each bank of lights are wired together in one master light. So I would have to direct wire all the figures and remove the box right?
Each light change to an outlet in a surface mounted box. Each fixture when you remove it put the wires on the outlet before screwing the outlet to the 4" work cover for the duplex outlet.
The master light you will need to wire nut in a single wire to connect to the outlet ( 3 is a tricky thing with 1 stab and one on each lug, not the best config ).
(https://www.handymanhowto.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/DSC03664.jpg)
(https://az184419.vo.msecnd.net/mclendon/Attachments/NewItems/wiring-middle-run-receptacle-pic-1-lg_20151125043740_0.jpg)
Your code might allow these.
(https://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/electrical-ac-dc/16452d1376709301-replacing-receptacles-switches-wondering-about-replacing-their-boxes-well-term-nut_pigtail_zps8ea7bdfe.jpg)
I don't use them, they are expensive and I am good making my own as the picture above.
If you make your own pigtail, you are going to use the hook function on the strippers to make the hok on the wire for the screw. This is for the wire end, do not break the tab on your outlets
(https://www.familyhandyman.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/FH13MAR_SWIOUT_14.jpg)
DON'T be this guy ( stab connections )
(https://community.smartthings.com/uploads/default/original/2X/c/c5a0202ad36fe0cfc05128c137995e8257f369cc.JPG)
You can find out easy enough at HomeDepot if you need to use the Raco 190 steel box or if you are plastic boxes like other states ( not IL ).
The transformer for the 12v DC ( or AC ) power supply plugs into that.
BTW : The hook function on the strippers, it is that hole you never knew what it was for.
(http://www.onemansanthology.com/images/electronics/tools/wire-strippers.JPG)
Put the end of the wire in there and turn your wrist and it makes a perfect hook :Old Dogg™:
You do the outlet on the top of each cabinet and you are free to select what every you want for lighting up there.
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Ok, I am in San Fran right now. But the other lights are just wired together using 3 wires. white, black and copper ground. Looks like each bank of lights are wired together in one master light. So I would have to direct wire all the figures and remove the box right?
Each light change to an outlet in a surface mounted box. Each fixture when you remove it put the wires on the outlet before screwing the outlet to the 4" work cover for the duplex outlet.
The master light you will need to wire nut in a single wire to connect to the outlet ( 3 is a tricky thing with 1 stab and one on each lug, not the best config ).
([url]https://www.handymanhowto.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/DSC03664.jpg[/url])
([url]https://az184419.vo.msecnd.net/mclendon/Attachments/NewItems/wiring-middle-run-receptacle-pic-1-lg_20151125043740_0.jpg[/url])
Your code might allow these.
([url]https://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/electrical-ac-dc/16452d1376709301-replacing-receptacles-switches-wondering-about-replacing-their-boxes-well-term-nut_pigtail_zps8ea7bdfe.jpg[/url])
I don't use them, they are expensive and I am good making my own as the picture above.
If you make your own pigtail, you are going to use the hook function on the strippers to make the hok on the wire for the screw. This is for the wire end, do not break the tab on your outlets
([url]https://www.familyhandyman.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/FH13MAR_SWIOUT_14.jpg[/url])
DON'T be this guy ( stab connections )
([url]https://community.smartthings.com/uploads/default/original/2X/c/c5a0202ad36fe0cfc05128c137995e8257f369cc.JPG[/url])
You can find out easy enough at HomeDepot if you need to use the Raco 190 steel box or if you are plastic boxes like other states ( not IL ).
The transformer for the 12v DC ( or AC ) power supply plugs into that.
BTW : The hook function on the strippers, it is that hole you never knew what it was for.
([url]http://www.onemansanthology.com/images/electronics/tools/wire-strippers.JPG[/url])
Put the end of the wire in there and turn your wrist and it makes a perfect hook :Old Dogg™:
You do the outlet on the top of each cabinet and you are free to select what every you want for lighting up there.
Steve, mine are on a switch not a plug.
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Steve, mine are on a switch not a plug.
Yes, the florescent lights are on a switch.
You are removing the florescent fixtures on top of the cabinets and putting the outlet in the fixtures place.
That master fixture is going to have the wires to the other 2 florescent fixtures as well as the switch leg from the switch and neutral and ground from the same box down the wall.
That is why I put in the part about making the pigtail, you are going to have 3 wires for the hot, 3 wires for the neutral and 3 wires for the ground and need to connect them to a single outlet and you don't have enough screw terminals to do that.
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Steve, mine are on a switch not a plug.
Yes, the florescent lights are on a switch.
You are removing the florescent fixtures on top of the cabinets and putting the outlet in the fixtures place.
That master fixture is going to have the wires to the other 2 florescent fixtures as well as the switch leg from the switch and neutral and ground from the same box down the wall.
That is why I put in the part about making the pigtail, you are going to have 3 wires for the hot, 3 wires for the neutral and 3 wires for the ground and need to connect them to a single outlet and you don't have enough screw terminals to do that.
Still struggling to understand I should put a plug in a switched circuit ?
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Still struggling to understand I should put a plug in a switched circuit ?
when I get back home tomorrow I will make up some drawings to try to help you thorough it.
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Still struggling to understand I should put a plug in a switched circuit ?
when I get back home tomorrow I will make up some drawings to try to help you thorough it.
I think I can wire it with ease, just trying to understand why put a outlet in a switched circuit. If it is mainly to handle the wiring load of 3 fixtures, I get that, especially using a pig tail to the main light.
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I think I can wire it with ease, just trying to understand why put a outlet in a switched circuit. If it is mainly to handle the wiring load of 3 fixtures, I get that, especially using a pig tail to the main light.
You are removing the florescent fixtures, which will leave you with just the wires hanging there.
When you install LED lights up there, they are going to have a transformer of some sorts either external or built into the product.
This is what one of my Juno Trac 12 transformer looks like ( I have the old one that is the wall wart type )
(http://www.greenelectricalsupply.com/images/products/display/tl544u_wh_jpg.jpg)
Each cabinet top will have a transformer on it, which means you need an outlet on top of each cabinet.
The wiring is already behind the drywall, so by taking a few extra min to put outlets on the top of each cabinet you won't see the wires climbing past the crown molding or have to drill it for low voltage wiring.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/ad077a07b4313662da7b2cb95db000b9.jpg)
If the transformer has a switch on it ( same as the picture above ) you will leave it in the on position and the switch down below will just turn power on & off to the transformer.
The family room ( picture with the xmas tree in it ) I would expect only has a single wire out of the wall and the lights are wired together.
That would be a single outlet up there and the Trac 12, Flex 12 or other mfgr if not Juno would span the length of the cabinet.
I guess I should have been more clear on which cabinet set.
This is the other kitchen cabinet that I would expect the wiring goes into the wall and out on the next cabinet.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171201/8b55049ae920f10f4ea041c3ad8de22c.jpg)
This is why you have an outlet on each cabinet on those. You don't want to try to fish the wall again with low voltage wire.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/6bb21fcdb9e6b92aec11f919225d266d.jpg)
Think of it as a half switched outlet in a room that turns a floor lamp on & off, same thing.