The Detailers Cafe
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kitzy on October 21, 2017, 02:58:02 PM
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Now that I have your attention.
1968 Ford 2000(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/d9d5d84f78778ca2f6b1c7732601540a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/1716387666fa01984022bc96658c8094.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171021/7577ce3a6c15c14c1d162d13d72685cc.jpg)
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Sweet! We've got a 1963 Ford 4000 at the marina. It's got a 3 cylinder motor that has bags of torque. Oh, and we simply cannot kill it.
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It's a cool machine for sure. I don't know much about it. It needs a little bit of work. Has a bad tie rod end and the front cylinder is leaking. Otherwise it starts right up and seems to run good.
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Had to use the work dump truck to get it home ?
What does that thing weight in at 4T ?
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That is outstanding.
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Pretty cool. you just need a set of chains and you're all set for snow removal.
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Does this mean you are now going to do your own driveway now?
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Had to use the work dump truck to get it home ?
What does that thing weight in at 4T ?
Actually the dump truck has been sitting at my house for months. I brought a load of stone home to fix some of the driveway. It goes back today because the boss is selling it.
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Pretty cool. you just need a set of chains and you're all set for snow removal.
Chains came with it actually.Does this mean you are now going to do your own driveway now?
It came with a snow plow so we will be able to plow the driveway. We are going to get a box blade for it so we can grade/maintain the road.
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Very nice toy!
I don't know what I'd do without my little tractor now that I've had it for a few years.
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Ok tractor people. So I'm looking at box blades so we can maintain our gravel/dirt road. Problem is, I know very little about tractors... Or box blades (aside from a YouTube video I watched.) I'm looking for a 7 footer? Yes that's a question. Haha. Tractor is just over 6 feet wide. Would something like this work and what else is needed based on what you can tell from the pictures. http://www.agrisupply.com/7-3-point-box-scaper-heavy-duty/p/103772/?sid=asf10&eid=Easf10&utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=MerchAdv&zmam=77232640&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=103772&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NB_PLA_BoxBlades_GOOG&utm_term=shopping&utm_content=sgsBQ8uuX|pcrid|51392340671|pmt||pkw||pdv|m|&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm9vPBRCQARIsABAIQYdj9NpY4X3TzGHLlt33GoejXTgG8T2fcSVkQ3e4RuZOb8Dz6Ms-R8MaAiRbEALw_wcB
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Mike, I am on the fence currently about using my box blade for grading driveways. I've done my Dad's 1/4 mile long driveway using my 4x4 Tractor with 4ft Box Blade and I get stuck every time on the hill leading up to the road because no matter what we do or how much gravel we put down it's soft all the time. A Box Blade does a good job grading but it does an even better job of holding material and dragging it along which can cause you to get stuck easily if there's too much material being dragged along behind the machine causing even more work.
I would also look at these even though they are quite a bit more expensive but they don't carry the amount of material along with them like a Box Blade does.
http://www.everythingattachments.com/Land-Leveler-Land-Plane-With-Scarifier-Rippers-p/eta-land-leveler-ws-2.htm (http://www.everythingattachments.com/Land-Leveler-Land-Plane-With-Scarifier-Rippers-p/eta-land-leveler-ws-2.htm)
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That might be overkill. Our road/driveway is more of a dirt road than it is stone. But it has channels, almost like small canyons running through it from heavy rains. It's also mostly flat with the exception of our driveway portion of it.
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This is the video I watched. Looked pretty simple. Just skip past the part where he goes over what it is and everything since you know already. The driveway is very similar to ours. Except not the same stone. And our ruts are more like probably 12-18" wide and relatively deep. I would think dragging anything over the top of them pulling stone would do a decent job.
Edit because I forgot the video...
https://youtu.be/HozFLzn5UdY
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As long as the material isn't well compacted you should be able to work it and make a reasonably smooth road surface. I tried to cut some pot holes out of the main aisles at work with my machine and compacted gravel just laughed off everything I threw at it. I couldn't get the rippers to bite no matter what I did and the grader we had come in worked to cut them out the surface was so hard.
Also if there isn't enough gravel left to work with no matter how well you grade the road those rut's will just come back. My only other advice is be careful how hard you push with a Box Blade in reverse because you can damage the tractor and Box Blade as they are meant to be pulled not pushed.
The Box Blade should work decent but just keep your expectations reasonable and be prepared to spend the better part of a day/weekend on the tractor grading.
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Do you think the box blade might not be heavy enough for the really compacted stuff to provide enough downward pressure for the scarifiers to dig in?
Our road is pretty compact. Not sure how that will turn out. I know for sure the ruts will come back. With two how's sitting much higher up on the road who's driveways flow water like no other down on to and across the road, it's a sure thing. Best case scenario is I smooth the road out and add a little pitch off the side. Worst case? It looks like it does now.
Funny, I had a small dump truck full of stone (mostly 3a modified) and uses it to fill in some of the bad areas and the other neighbors who lives all the way back on the road (like me they have to travel the full length of the 1/4 Mile road to get to their driveway) pull up while I was raking (yeah, raking a dump truck load... There is no emoji for this feeling) just told me leave it the way it is, nobody cares, we all have trucks anyway.
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Dumb question time for me ( I know what is new ).
Have you guys ever looked at putting in drains perpendicular to the road at intervals to dry wells on the sides ?
Something like this
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/0c/31/b8/0c31b8f1fd849299013c68c034f3770e.jpg)
If you get them started up the road it won't be a flood of water by time it passes your driveway; trying to carve out the next grand canyon.
It will take some work and money but it might save you from having a washed out access road.
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You are going to be using a heavier Box Blade than I was so you may have better luck than I did. I would still give it a go.
Sound like you have a couple winners for neighbors and I feel your pain.
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Dumb question time for me ( I know what is new ).
Have you guys ever looked at putting in drains perpendicular to the road at intervals to dry wells on the sides ?
Something like this
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/0c/31/b8/0c31b8f1fd849299013c68c034f3770e.jpg)
If you get them started up the road it won't be a flood of water by time it passes your driveway; trying to carve out the next grand canyon.
It will take some work and money but it might save you from having a washed out access road.
My driveway itself is actually not much of the problem. The private road with the other four houses on it is most of the issue. Two of the houses sit much higher and have steeper driveways. That's where the bulk of the damage comes from. Nothing is paved. With the exception of a small pad at the house that sits at the very very beginning of the road. Stone would actually just wash over those drains. I'm just looking for maybe more of a quarterly touch up/maintenance solution. Not even perfection.
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You are going to be using a heavier Box Blade than I was so you may have better luck than I did. I would still give it a go.
Sound like you have a couple winners for neighbors and I feel your pain.
Back to my original question, or one of them anyway. If I was to purchase a box blade is there anything else I would need to go along with it? Should it just attach? Do they all mount the same way?
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They all attach the same way and looking at the pictures your tractor is missing the top link but you can easily source one from a Dealer or the place you are going to buy the Box Blade from. It will take some measuring to figure out what length you need.
Here is a link to Agri Supply.
http://www.agrisupply.com/top-links/c/4900018/ (http://www.agrisupply.com/top-links/c/4900018/)
If you wanted to get really fancy you can add a quick hitch. I have one and I love it!
http://www.agrisupply.com/searchcenter.aspx?keyword=3pt%20quick%20hitch&operator=OR (http://www.agrisupply.com/searchcenter.aspx?keyword=3pt%20quick%20hitch&operator=OR)
If you haven't figured it out yet this is as deep a rabbit hole as detailing is. :redneck:
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They all attach the same way and looking at the pictures your tractor is missing the top link but you can easily source one from a Dealer or the place you are going to buy the Box Blade from. It will take some measuring to figure out what length you need.
Here is a link to Agri Supply.
[url]http://www.agrisupply.com/top-links/c/4900018/[/url] ([url]http://www.agrisupply.com/top-links/c/4900018/[/url])
If you wanted to get really fancy you can add a quick hitch. I have one and I love it!
[url]http://www.agrisupply.com/searchcenter.aspx?keyword=3pt%20quick%20hitch&operator=OR[/url] ([url]http://www.agrisupply.com/searchcenter.aspx?keyword=3pt%20quick%20hitch&operator=OR[/url])
If you haven't figured it out yet this is as deep a rabbit hole as detailing is. :redneck:
I'm learning as I go here. I really don't know much. I haven't even really gone over the tractor.much to see how it all works and which levers do what.
The top link... I see hyrdaulic and none hydraulic. Are the interchangeable or do they go in different locations? Looking at the tractor I see a hydraulic cylinder where the top link hooks up. So I'm not understanding why I would need another one or where the hoses would be coming from.
I'm going to have to see how those quick hitches work. I'm all for quick and easy.
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The top link mounts in the center right behind the operators seat in the bracket next to where the brake light is mounted. Here is a good diagram of the parts of a 3 point hitch and terminology used for each one. Hydraulic top links are nice but aren't a necessity.
(https://blogs.cornell.edu/smallfarmsprogram/files//2016/04/Three-Point-Hitches4-sfqxo6.png)
This is a decent article on 3 points.
http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2016/04/04/tractor-three-point-hitches/ (http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2016/04/04/tractor-three-point-hitches/)
This one gives the dimension of the different Catagory 3 point hitches. Your's is most likely a Cat 2.
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The top link mounts in the center right behind the operators seat in the bracket next to where the brake light is mounted. Here is a good diagram of the parts of a 3 point hitch and terminology used for each one. Hydraulic top links are nice but aren't a necessity.
([url]https://blogs.cornell.edu/smallfarmsprogram/files//2016/04/Three-Point-Hitches4-sfqxo6.png[/url])
This is a decent article on 3 points.
[url]http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2016/04/04/tractor-three-point-hitches/[/url] ([url]http://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2016/04/04/tractor-three-point-hitches/[/url])
This one gives the dimension of the different Catagory 3 point hitches. Your's is most likely a Cat 2.
Thanks for the help!
A 7' box seems a bit big but the guy in the video stated to go a little wider than the rear wheels and the tractor is over 6' wide. Think it would have any issues aside from maybe not being able to push or pull too much?
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Here's a Google Earth shot of what I'm working with. Unfortunately you can't see the elevation difference of my house (blue do) and the two houses to the right of mine in the picture. Those two driveways are what really play havoc on the road. You can also see where the road transitions over from dirt to stone.
Also two pictures of where the water runs down from those two houses. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/670ea88f35854687316cc12201a0dc70.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/265510572713a4862b98ba8068eede85.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171102/7573c7f9c0eb2d8b7ef8c4d753efa63f.jpg)
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Honestly looks like you need some ditches an culverts.
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So it seems it's a category 1 3 point hitch. I'm having trouble finding information on choosing parts. Like top link length. And looking at a drawbar to mount a hitch to tow the trailer around.
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Honestly looks like you need some ditches an culverts.
X2 on that one. You're wasting your time without them.
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I don't think that's going to be an option.
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Anyone know where to get parts for the snow plow on this thing. Best I can tell by looking in to it is it is a Dearborn 19-3 snow plow. I looking for the shoes/skis for it. Otherwise I guess I'll be fabbing something up.
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I'll ask dad, should see him tomorrow, if he had one and if so if they looked like this
(http://www.ntractorclub.com/eds_stuff/ford%20tractors/Implements/Universal%20Frame%20and%20Attachments/1947-55%20Blade-Scoop,%20Dozer,%20U-frame,%20Snow%20Plow%20MPB,%20Aug.%201955/Page%2028%20-%2019-5%20Blade%20Assembly,%20extra%20equipment.jpg)
Few half assed searches I did not come up with a source for them.
- Saw a ref back in 2006 that they were still round, but 11 years later that might not be the case.
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I appreciate it. I was getting nowhere using Google. I have a feeling it's going to be one of those situations where someone knows someone who may have one or the lucky Craigslist find. Doubt anyone will be selling them solo though. I can probably buy a setup and weld up my own bracket for it. Might be worth a trip to tractor supply.
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Wow. Those shoe set ups are more expensive than I would have thought. I may just be making something.
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Time to change to a round universal skid shoe setup ?
How bad were they ?
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Time to change to a round universal skid shoe setup ?
How bad were they ?
They weren't there when we got it. I plowed with it today (we got another 3" last night) but I don't want to keep running it on the stone and gravel without the shoes on there. A lot of the round shoes look like they're going to dig in. I would prefer the smoother dished kind. Thinking of making an actual ski-like set up with a taper on the front and back. Something to distribute the weight so the shoes themselves don't dig down in.
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You could always go with a rubber cutting edge.
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You could always go with a rubber cutting edge.
Any experience with this on stone?
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You could always go with a rubber cutting edge.
Any experience with this on stone?
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Not much, no. We run one on the 8' Western plow on one of the Bobcat Toolcats at the marina because the paving is falling apart in the (large) front parking lot. It seems to handle at mess pretty well. No scarring and it cleans really well. It also seems to be wearing quite well after two years. One thing I will warn you about though, they are quite expensive.
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You could always go with a rubber cutting edge.
Any experience with this on stone?
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Not much, no. We run one on the 8' Western plow on one of the Bobcat Toolcats at the marina because the paving is falling apart in the (large) front parking lot. It seems to handle at mess pretty well. No scarring and it cleans really well. It also seems to be wearing quite well after two years. One thing I will warn you about though, they are quite expensive.
Well since I'm not looking to replace a pricey part with what I can only imagine is a much pricier part, I went by Tractor Supply yesterday and they had Meyers snow plow shoes on the shelf for $20 each. They were the style I wanted and For another $20-$30 I could get some steel and fab up two brackets. I'm just having trouble locating round steel tubing with a 1" inner diameter that the shoe will ride in.
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Well since I'm not looking to replace a pricey part with what I can only imagine is a much pricier part, I went by Tractor Supply yesterday and they had Meyers snow plow shoes on the shelf for $20 each. They were the style I wanted and For another $20-$30 I could get some steel and fab up two brackets. I'm just having trouble locating round steel tubing with a 1" inner diameter that the shoe will ride in.
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You should have gone with the kit for 200.00 that had the brackets with it.
- I am shocked Tractor Supply did not have the full kit.
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/1a33f9b2-7526-4b80-9e25-c610aa621350/svn/meyer-snow-equipment-parts-accessories-08271-64_400_compressed.jpg)
Home Depot can order them and have them shipped to the store or your house.
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Well since I'm not looking to replace a pricey part with what I can only imagine is a much pricier part, I went by Tractor Supply yesterday and they had Meyers snow plow shoes on the shelf for $20 each. They were the style I wanted and For another $20-$30 I could get some steel and fab up two brackets. I'm just having trouble locating round steel tubing with a 1" inner diameter that the shoe will ride in.
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You should have gone with the kit for 200.00 that had the brackets with it.
- I am shocked Tractor Supply did not have the full kit.
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/1a33f9b2-7526-4b80-9e25-c610aa621350/svn/meyer-snow-equipment-parts-accessories-08271-64_400_compressed.jpg)
Home Depot can order them and have them shipped to the store or your house.
I thought about it. I was hoping I could find a used set cheaper. If those bolt holes don't line up, it would force me to drill new holes in to the plow itself. While that would work no problem, there is just something about keeping the plow in it's original form and that bracket would be hard to modify. Besides, why not try my hand at making something? If it fails, it's just being used around the house anyway.
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I thought about it. I was hoping I could find a used set cheaper. If those bolt holes don't line up, it would force me to drill new holes in to the plow itself. While that would work no problem, there is just something about keeping the plow in it's original form and that bracket would be hard to modify. Besides, why not try my hand at making something? If it fails, it's just being used around the house anyway.
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I envisioned those Myers brackets would slide onto where bracket #16 in the diagram above it at and drill the holes in the Meyers brackets the same way that bolt #17 ( diagram above ) presents.
- The Meyers bracket would be above and below that angle where bracket #16 bolts to the top.
I don't know the slot size in the Myers bracket vs what bracket #16 above is bolting to thickness wise.
For 170.00 you could go with the Western midweight kit, that is similar to the bracket #16 above.
- It might need some of that tab cut off and the holes drilled in it.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Y1QBKpWHL._SY463_.jpg)
You could even use some angle on the other side of the plow angle to make the sandwich type config as above.
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I thought about it. I was hoping I could find a used set cheaper. If those bolt holes don't line up, it would force me to drill new holes in to the plow itself. While that would work no problem, there is just something about keeping the plow in it's original form and that bracket would be hard to modify. Besides, why not try my hand at making something? If it fails, it's just being used around the house anyway.
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I envisioned those Myers brackets would slide onto where bracket #16 in the diagram above it at and drill the holes in the Meyers brackets the same way that bolt #17 ( diagram above ) presents.
- The Meyers bracket would be above and below that angle where bracket #16 bolts to the top.
I don't know the slot size in the Myers bracket vs what bracket #16 above is bolting to thickness wise.
For 170.00 you could go with the Western midweight kit, that is similar to the bracket #16 above.
- It might need some of that tab cut off and the holes drilled in it.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Y1QBKpWHL._SY463_.jpg)
You could even use some angle on the other side of the plow angle to make the sandwich type config as above.
I basically picked up two pieces of angle which I will sandwich together around where it bolts to the plow, weld in the correct length of tubing and I have the same thing. A couple holes and some boots and I'm done. Might even use some of the left over angle to form gussets... Because why not.
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Got it all together. It's a little rough. I should have tacked it together and took it to work so I could use a better welder but it will do. It went well. It should work as long as it holds up. I do want to remove them, clean them up the best I can and paint them. I probably have under $70 in to this. $90 if you count the $20 1/2" drill bit.
As you can see, there is daylight under the plow blade and with all of the washers it is fully adjustable in either direction. If the shoes just dog in then I will fab up something more along the lines of short skis.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171222/6f172bdff0ab1497652c22f14e130577.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171222/e7b496b245a5713b99019c52bcab5d59.jpg)
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Those will work pretty good I think, nice work!