The Detailers Cafe
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Blown F-150 on March 24, 2013, 07:03:38 PM
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So as my other thread eluded to, I purchased a '06 Lariat Crew Cab F-350. It is in Tom's favorite color too!
I have wanted a diesel for a very long time, so when I found out we had to make a big move a couple thousand miles away I figured it was time. I talked with the wife and we came up with a budget. It was tight, but I figured if I looked for something that needed a bit of work, I could find a good deal.
I ended up finding this gem on Craigslist. The guy bought it, put some money into it (EGR Delete, Body work, exhaust, Intake, tuner, gauges, fluids, tires, etc.). Then he started to hear a "whine" and was told by his Mechanic that is was probably the Turbo. He didn't want to spend any more money on it, so he decided to sell it. He has had it sitting for about 8 months with a friend borrowing it a few times to move furniture, sled, etc. I gave him a low-ball offer and he took it.
So here it is.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1406_zpsdbc2d61d.jpg)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1407_zps69f7a71b.jpg)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1408_zpsc56e981e.jpg)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1409_zps9298deb6.jpg)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1410_zps19df5a4e.jpg)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1413_zps9a840981.jpg)
Only damage I could find on the seats
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1411_zps6563eb6f.jpg)
So I just had the opportunity to really have a look at the truck today. It is pretty good inside, but needs some care with added on wiring and just needs a bunch of small stuff cleaned up/fixed.
The big thing was to tackle this "turbo problem". During the test drive with the guy, I did smell some exhaust when I would come to a stop. I thought this lended to a possible exhaust leak. I did some research when I got home and found that after a EGR delete, it was pretty common for the bellows in the up-pipe to break due to lack of EGR cooler support. I crawled under the truck and sure enough, the bellows were split! At first I thought it would have been better to bring it in to get it fixed, but then figured I would give it a shot myself. It only took me 30 minutes to get the turbo out and another 40 to get the y-pipe out. Not too bad at all.
Here's where the Turbo currently sits...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1412_zpse64267e5.jpg)
Here is the cracked up-pipe.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1414_zpsf07fd6ba.jpg)
Off to the exhaust shop tomorrow to see if they will cut in a nice braided stainless flex for me so it won't happen again. I spun the turbo and I highly doubt it is the whine, so I have my fingers crossed when I get this back together that it is good to go.
Once that is done I have this list to start to tackle.
- Fix tranny temp gauge, it doesn't work
- Drivers door handle needs to be replaced (it was damaged during attempted break-in)
- Gauge wiring needs to be cleaned up
- Fix heat in drivers seat
- Set up one of the Aux switched for high-idle. If anyone knows where the aux switch wires go, let me know. I haven't found them yet.
- Wiring for running board LED's needs to be pulled (the strips are damaged and no longer work)
- Mount front plate
- Oil Change
- Fuel filter
- Running boards (only has one) :redneck:
- Figure out how the factory command start works, I think I need a different remote
- Figure out a stereo
- Touch up paint and give it a serious Polish
- Detail interior
- Use my "Port a Power" and try to straighten out box
- Fix rear bumper sensors
- Polish or replace headlights
- Replace Grill (I may end up painting it with rhino liner it white???)
- Check out the whole front end
- put in new brakes
That's all I can think of for now. I'm on a tight budget, so I will tackle everything that I can myself.
If there is any suggestions on how to tackle items on the list, please feel free to share. I haven't even checked fuses at this point, so that may be the only problem the seat heat.
Thanks for reading!
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that looks like a great truck
gotta ask what is a low ball offer?
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The ends of the wires from the Upfitter Switches are tucked up near the Parking Brake pedal. I believe they're orange or have an orange stripe on them and there's four of them all bundled together. Two are high amperage and two are low and they're all fused and run through relays already. Kind of a pain to find the wires, but those switches are one of the best things Ford ever added to SD's.
Keep us posted on your progress and upgrades and welcome to the "smells like a Greyhound Bus Station" club!
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I just of missed that, there are two sets of wires for upfitters...one inside the cab, you have to remove the kick panel by the driver, then remove the fuse panel and you will see them there. The second is in the engine bay near firewall, top side.
If you need photos let me know.
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Thanks for the info on the switches, It will point me in the right direction. I really like the idea of them as I have always had to add switches for something or other to my vehicles.
RR, a "Low Ball" offer is when you offer much less than they are asking. Must be a Canadian Term... :dope:
I hope to get the engine buttoned back up by this coming weekend. We are going for a road trip to my sister-in laws and I don't want to leave it in pieces.
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Thanks for the info on the switches, It will point me in the right direction. I really like the idea of them as I have always had to add switches for something or other to my vehicles.
RR, a "Low Ball" offer is when you offer much less than they are asking. Must be a Canadian Term... :dope:
I hope to get the engine buttoned back up by this coming weekend. We are going for a road trip to my sister-in laws and I don't want to leave it in pieces.
My bad....I am the king of the low ball.....I was more asking what WAS your low ball offer. :) if you care to share.
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Sent you a PM RR.
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The damage to the grille, is that the chrome coating peeling off ?
Just thinking if you get that stripped off, you could get a piece of 3M 1080 vehicle wrap and do it up in matte or gloss white
I got mine off eBay, AVS ( Auto Vinyl Solutions ) but you might find someone north of the boarder to get it from.
I am finishing my 2nd winter of the matte black on my grille, and it has held up fine getting pelted with salt and sitting out in the sun.
2' x 5' piece is ~ 30.00 for the 3M 1080 film. I watched a few youtube videos and went at it. Only takes some sharp blades, some of the pile side of Velcro on a body filler putty blade and a hiardryer to put it on, and it will look like the rest of the vehicle.
Just need to get that wave part sorted out, but that is something you need to do with which ever way you go.
The upfitter switches, you can download the PDF for them from fleet.ford.com
This is the last one I had to download ( for a 2005 SD ) :
www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q117.pdf (http://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q117.pdf)
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Ryan, for high idle I used switch #4 since you don't need many amps to kick in the PTO high idle. The bellows are a common issue on the 6.0 trucks for some reason and they crack whether or not you have the EGR delete done because mine let go before and I did the delete to fix it. I would be more concerned about the vanes on the turbo being frozen/rusted in position from lack of use and I would honestly pull it apart and inspect it as long as you have it out so you don't have R&R it a second time.
Here is the link for the under dash wiring harness with the wire color and circuit number for the PTO idle circuit.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/2003/bb_pdf/199.pdf (https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/2003/bb_pdf/199.pdf)
Here's a link to the 6.0 Bible with the procedures for just about everything.
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/html/TOC.html (http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/html/TOC.html)
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Appreciate the links guys, thank you.
The grill chrome is separating from the plastic, I have seen a few that have done it. I found a replacement grill for cheap, so I will see what shape it is in before deciding what to do.
I did a quick pull apart of the turbo and everything seems great, very little soot and no stuck vanes. The guys did say the turbo was serviced when the Delete was done, but I wanted to confirm.
Going to drop off the pipe at the muffler shop today to see if they can fit a aftermarket flex in there. I don't want to buy a new one, only for it to happen again.
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Only had an hour to work on it last night, but I was able to get the pipe back in place and loosely bolted up to the manifolds, Turbo in place and connected to the up-pipe and down-pipe. It was a bit of a pain, but at least they got the measurements right when they put in the new piece of flex. Forgot to take a pic, but the looks of the welds left something to be desired, looks like it won't leak at least. No one should be able to see it anyway.
Hope to get the "Blue Spring" update installed in the fuel regulator and button it all back up for a test drive. Did the FICM test, Head Gasket Test and Fuel Pressure test to make sure I don't have any surprises.
Fingers crossed there is no whine...
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Well, I got it all back together and had a massive exhaust leak... :moody:
Seems that the up-pipe slipped while I was fitting the mormon clamp. I hope I can get back into it without taking too much apart and get it resolved tonight.
I have a 11hr drove in the morning to spend the long weekend in Calgary, so no truck time until next week.
Hope everyone has a great long weekend!
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Good luck man. Hopefully it pans out and you got yourself a steal of a truck.
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I was able to get it sorted out. Definitely not fun...
I thought I had it all lined up, fired it up and there was still a leak. I figured I buggered up the other flex connection when I put the y-pipe back in. So I took it completely apart again...if anyone needs a turbo pulled from a 6.0, I can do it in about 10 minutes. :redneck:
Pulled the y-pipe, sealed it up and filled it with water, no leaks! :dope: With the Turbo on the ground, I connected the y-pipe and then measured the mormon clamp to see how tight it should get when lined up properly. I could tell that the last time I had it in the truck, it wasn't as tight.
I figured the I would set everything back in place, loosely bolt up the manifold to y-pipe connections and then connect it up to the turbo. To make things a little more flexible, I connected the y-pipe before even bolting down the turbo. I was happy with the connection, so proceeded to put the rest of it back together. I said a little prayer, then fired it up. No leaks! everything seems to be good.
Took it to work this morning and without the leak it had, it spools much quicker and has higher boost throughout the range. I seem to be at 22-24psi boost @ WOT, so I hope that is in the range.
Now onto the gauges, anyone pull a cluster yet? I have a bunch of lights to replace.
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Very cool! I'm glad you got it sorted out and the 22-24lbs of boost is correct for a stock 6.0
When you've got the gauge cluster out can you do me a favor and look to see if there is a back light for the odometer? Mine keeps going out randomly it's driving me nuts and I haven't had a chance to pull the dash apart yet.
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Very cool! I'm glad you got it sorted out and the 22-24lbs of boost is correct for a stock 6.0
When you've got the gauge cluster out can you do me a favor and look to see if there is a back light for the odometer? Mine keeps going out randomly it's driving me nuts and I haven't had a chance to pull the dash apart yet.
Do you have a picture of the cluster ?
Curious if it is like the 99-03 MY with the electronic Odometer or like the 97-98 MY with the wheel type ( or the message center )
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Not sure if it is related, but my 2000 F-150 had an intermittent Odometer. It just turned out to be a cold solder joint, it was super easy to spot and fix.
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My truck's an 06 with the digital message center the truck has 184k on it so the dash has taken quite a beating over the last 7 years with the truck being a F350 on the crappy Michigan roads. I would like to think it's something simple and I've been able to get it come back using the caveman method but I'm not holding my breath.
I can get a picture of the dash today if you need one.
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Nope, message center is all I needed.
# 74 ( #37 ? ) bulb ( at least it is on the F150 ) in a bulb holder.
Crap part is you need to pull the cluster to get to it from the back.
Gray color bulb holder, counter clock wise upscrews it. Make sure not to go nuts unscrewing it, the bulb socket is not the strongest thing in the world.
The cluster I have does not have the translucent cover on it, think you should have one with little flaps where the bulb holders are at.
It is right above the message center on the back of the gauge ( make sure you are looking on the correct side, I always flip it over and forget to reverse my view ).
Has nothing to do with the roads, that bulb is on anytime the ign is on, so it burns more than any other bulb in the cluster.
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Steve, thank you for the info it's a big help.
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Thanks Steve!
I will take a bunch of pics on the process too, so people will have something to reference.
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Well I was able to finally get around to working on the truck last night and a bit this afternoon.
I tackled the cluster lights and I gotta say it was way easier to get that sucker out than on the F-150. You just need to pop out the light switch and then the whole dash cover popped off. Once you get it out a bit, you can unplug the switches. I noticed there a a couple of "dead" plug ins, must be for heavy duty or King Ranch applications (I think one is for a rear sliding window). One right by the power point and one under the 4x4 switch. I had to put the shifter in first gear to get the dash cover right out.
To get the cluster out, it's just four 7/32" screws. The shifter indicator just gets the outside tabs squeezed and it drops down out of the bottom of the cluster. There are two connections at the top, just push down on the stop and the lever folds over allowing the plug to pop out.
Once removed, I just flipped it over and turned out the sockets of the burnt lights. I grabbed 5 bulbs (#74), glad I did as I needed all of them... :dope:
The more and more I look into this truck, the more I figure it had some sort of electrical problem which is not good, but what can ya do :dunno:.
I found a wire soldered into place that I am sure wasn't factory and there was duct tape on the bottom of it, not sure why.
FYI GreyMichFx4, I didn't see any bulbs specific to the monitor LCD, it did look like the same crappy cold solder joints as my F-150 and I am sure you could spot a broken joint on yours and hit it with a solder pencil.
I then cleaned up all the dust and crap (literally mouse crap...frig) and then buttoned it all back up.
Connections on the top of the cluster
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1425_zps20c6e70d.jpg)
Back of the cluster, the two rows of pins under the 5 clustered lights are for the monitor LCD.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1427_zps7b9eefee.jpg)
The bulb and socket. The bulb just pulls out.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1428_zpsb285b667.jpg)
The soldered wire I found on the back, bypassing a burnt bit on the printed circuit board.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1430_zps0f0c1468.jpg)
And a done deal!
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1431_zps4866a348.jpg)
Today was not quite as productive. My Wife and I went for a ride to pick up a used set of running boards. not pics yet as I didn't get them installed, it was a three hour drive round trip. They aren't mint, but nice enough for the $100 I paid. They are off a '08 by the looks of them.
When we got back, I already had some brake pads that I bought, so I figured I should get the brakes done first. On the Front Drivers, the caliper was seized, I thought something was up when I drove it to work last week, the brakes were kind of sticking and getting hotter than they should have. So anyway, after fighting to get the bugger off, I went a bought a new one. The parts place is only 5 minutes away and they had one in stock. replaced the caliper and pads, bleed it out with help from my lovely wife and then bolted that side back up. The passenger side was not so bad, the caliper looks like it was swapped out the last time the pads were done, but the sliding caliper pins were seized. I used the caliper mount from the drivers side, greased the pins with caliper grease, put on the new pads and buttoned it back up. only one pad was worn thanks to the stuck pins, so I am glad I decided to take the brakes apart. Tried to start on the rears, but I can't get the friggen wheels off. I tried all the tricks I know, so I hit the mating surfaces of the rotors and wheels with PB Blaster and hope to try again tomorrow if it doesn't rain. The rear pads really need to be swapped, so I have to figure something out. I wouldn't be surprised if the pins on the rears are seized too, the truck was only used 3 times in the last 10 Months before I got it.
Time for an adult beverage... :beer:
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Sounds like a fun day! Good results though.
One word of caution on the Slider Pins. The fleet of SD's that I drive and sometimes work on has certainly gone through its share of brake parts and we've learned a few things. One learning is that once a Slider Pin sizes up (due to corrosion), it's time for a new pin. Our mechanic fought me on this one and insisted that cleaning the old pin up on a wire wheel, cleaning out the bore on the Caliper Bracket with a drill and gobbering Slider Lube over everything was a satisfactory fix. I finally convinced him that you really need to install new pins because they have a plated surface designed to resist rust. Slider Lube doesn't have much of anything when it comes to corrosion inhibitors. The other thing we've found is that the rear sliders take the worst beating.
Hope that helps!
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man, you are brave.
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Thanks for the tip TS! I am not one for re-using parts, but the ones on the front drivers side were actually in good shape so I took the chance. For the rears, I am expecting the pins to be seized. I will see if I can get pin kits as I don't want to fork out the dough for two rear calipers.
Any thought of good anti-seize instead of the caliper grease? more anti-corrosion properties, but I'm not sure about it holding up the the heat or causing other issues.
Raining out today so I won't be touching the truck until I am back from Miami on Saturday.
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I was told (in no uncertain terms) by one of the instructors at the college my son went to (Toyota T-Ten program) not to use any type of Never Seize - high temperature or not. Apparently it all fails due to the high heat from the brakes whereas the Silicone Slider Lube does not. From that I'd take it that having a good, corrosion resistant surface (on the pins) in the first place is the best place to start.
Hell, what am I doing here lecturing you? You know what the heck you're doing!
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Agrees TS. I am going to order rear pin kits and some caliper grease. I need to add some grease to the fronts too.
Hope to get some stuff done on the truck this weekend. I noticed that the overhead light switches don't work...
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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I haven't had a chance to tackle the rear brakes yet, I hope to one evening this week.
I used the truck to go biking yesterday, and it worked really well except for the auto hubs. I had to manually lock them for 4x4 to work...gonna have to look at that now too.
Anyway, today I figured I would try to take care of a couple of little things. I started out fixing the center arm rest. It would move a fair bit when you put your arm down on it. It didn't really come apart since the apoulstry was stapled in. I found that a screw came loose holding the mounting bracket to the body of the armrest, tightened it up. Easy fix, thank goodness.
I then swapped out the lower (curved) mirror on the passenger side. they just pop out and snap in. Another easy fix.
Then I figured I would tackle the heated seat that doesn't work on the drivers side. I pulled the seat out and took it inside. A quick test with the Ohm meter let me know that the circuit was open somewhere. I pulled up the seat cover, loosened up the ring clamps that hold the cover to the foam and found the culprit. There was short in the wire between the elements. I stripped the wire back, gave them a quick twist together and checked the resistance again, and it was good so at least it was the only short. I pulled out the soldering pencil, a bit of 20g wire, heat shrink and solder. Soldered the wires up leaving a little extra so it wouldn't get pulled apart. Then buttoned everything back up. With the seat back in the truck, gave it a test and it works!
biking
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130413_140525_497_zps07acd73c.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130413_140525_497_zps07acd73c.jpg.html)
Culprit
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1433_zpsa7ec2ac1.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1433_zpsa7ec2ac1.jpg.html)
Good after the making the connection
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1434_zps672eefb9.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1434_zps672eefb9.jpg.html)
Soldered up
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1437_zps1ddccbd9.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1437_zps1ddccbd9.jpg.html)
Extra slack to allow for movement
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1440_zps75107cca.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1440_zps75107cca.jpg.html)
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I gotta say that I am glad I didn't have to buy a turbo for it. :moody:
I tackled the rear brakes last night. I picked up a couple of slider pin kits in anticipation that they would be seized. Well the slider pins were actually in real nice shape, no corrosion, lots of grease and slid nice. The same couldn't be said for the calipers as they were seized on both sides! I'll order a couple un-loaded calipers today and try and get them swapped tomorrow.
I also wasn't too happy with the batteries, they didn't load test super strong and since the truck will be in for a cold winter I bought a couple of good 880CCA legend NAPA batteries.
I can't wait till I can get to the detailing, it's gonna be a lot cheaper than the rest of this stuff :redneck:.
I plan on correcting as much as I can and topping it off with Opti-Coat. Any recommendations on how warm it has to be out before I apply the Opti-Coat?
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My goodness just read the whole thread
You sir have some motivation!
Glad it is all going without any major major issues and hangups
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...<snip>...
I plan on correcting as much as I can and topping it off with Opti-Coat. Any recommendations on how warm it has to be out before I apply the Opti-Coat?
1. what are the defects like ?
don't know if this is a case of some of them are just too bad that it is a paint item ?
- the only reason I ask is Opti Coat is a compound it off item.
2. My personal use case : 70* or higher with low humidity.
I think the product is a wider application, as in the 50* + range, but I like it to flash a bit quicker than that.
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1. what are the defects like ?
don't know if this is a case of some of them are just too bad that it is a paint item ?
- the only reason I ask is Opti Coat is a compound it off item.
2. My personal use case : 70* or higher with low humidity.
I think the product is a wider application, as in the 50* + range, but I like it to flash a bit quicker than that.
I have yet to wash it, but I think the whole drivers side is original paint and never really seen any love. The tailgate is almost "dull" looking like single stage paint. Rocker Panels will need some Paint-work and I will probably end up using rock-guard on the very bottom when I pull the LED light strips. I know I am being picky (not really for this group, but for the general public). It really needs some mud-flaps, but the tires are so close to the front fenders that they might rub. I am not sure what I am going to do there...Doors, box sides, fenders are all pretty much major scratch and dent free. Just a couple of spots.
Anyway...I won't really have the facilities to detail when I move to the states, so I want to take the time to correct as much as possible and then use Opti-Coat to seal it up for a good long time. I'm almost at the point (I hope in the next couple of weeks) where I can switch gears from Mechanical to Cosmetic. By then, I should be getting to the ideal temps, unfortunately I don't have use of any garages that the truck will fit in so it will have to be done outside.
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I was able to get the rear brakes all done this evening. Other than spending the money, I am very glad to now have new Calipers, the ones I pulled off looked really rough. There was less than a mm on the pads and the rear drivers got super hot at one point. Used my Vacuum pump to pull lots of fresh fluid trough the lines and added a little extra grease to the slide pins. At this point, I'm gonna call the brakes a done deal. Wish I had taken some pics, but my hands were a mess and I didn't want to use the camera.
I hope the rain holds off as I would really like to get the blue spring update done tomorrow evening.
The list is starting to get shorter! Getting closer to :hp:
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....<snip>....Doors, box sides, fenders are all pretty much major scratch and dent free. Just a couple of spots.
Anyway...I won't really have the facilities to detail when I move to the states, so I want to take the time to correct as much as possible and then use Opti-Coat to seal it up for a good long time. I'm almost at the point (I hope in the next couple of weeks) where I can switch gears from Mechanical to Cosmetic. By then, I should be getting to the ideal temps, unfortunately I don't have use of any garages that the truck will fit in so it will have to be done outside.
If are not going to be able to do anything with it for some time, I think I would also do the correcting work and Opti Coat it.
Makes touch up real easy with ONR mixed at QD ratio ( 15:1 ).
If you are doing it outside, make sure you have 24 hours without rain, it needs that long to setup prior to getting wet. Might be difficult to find, but other wise it won't set ( what I read from Dr G on it ).
If you are doing that much at one time, get a small LC crimson hydrotech pad and one of the hand holders for the pad. You will use slightly more product, but it will be much easier on the application vs going with the Suede Microfiber Cloth over a Megs sanding block in a rubber glove ( next to nothing for absorbing into the applicator ).
Something like the Polishing Pal, they also have them as palm loops, for holding the pad. I got it for dad's RV, but have used it one everything else but ( didn't get to that last year that is this summer's project ).
Smaller applications I go the Suede Microfiber Cloth route.
I know it has made me lazy for the top of the cab, the cap and the tailgate on my truck :Old Dogg?:
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Thanks Steve,
I was going to give it a shot with the "special" applicator Justin sent with the Opti-Coat I ordered last fall.
Next week is meant to be pretty nice out, I might try and tackle a couple of panels and see how things go.
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I was able to tackle a couple more small things on the truck. I picked up some hardware to fix missing a few broke and missing bolts on the front bumper supports. Less rattles over the bumps now, which is good. My buddy had a spare key fob from his old focus, so I programmed it to the truck. I only received one set of keys with the truck, so I am glad to get a free fob and since there is no chip key, a cheap key cut.
On the subject of keyless entry, does anyone know if I can find out the door code without plugging the truck into a ford computer?
I also picked up a new battery hold down (the wedge) for the passenger battery since the one on the truck had a crack in it. replaced the degas bottle mounting bolts.
I figured a electric fuel pressure gauge would be a smart addition and then remembered I spent big bucks on one for my other truck. I looked around in my big box of random truck/car stuff and found it all neatly packed up in it's original box. :clap: I ordered a new 4 gauge a-pillar pod and it should be here next week. I also picked up some white "Flex Seal" as I was think about using it on the quarter panels under the door. Not sure on that one yet... :dunno: I was thinking about just spray in box liner, but since it's black, I'm not sure.
No work on the truck tomorrow as I will be doing the Vancouver "Sun Run". It's just a 10k run that I will try to run most of...I'm not that fit.
Hopefully Monday evening will be getting the running boards on and pulling off the LED light strips. I gotta get some more pics up to "prove" things are happening... :redneck: I sure am itching to get it cleaned up now.
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Your VSM looks to be about center of the dash. not too sure if it is behind the radio or lower ??
The number should be on the VSM.
Here is a picture of where it should be at ( 2006 EVTM location diagram ).
(http://www.thedetailerscafe.com/smf/gallery/3/464-200413231508.jpeg)
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Thanks Steve, I will get out the dental mirror and a flashlight to see what I can find.
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Found it! Thanks again. I will have to try the code when I get everything under the dash back together again. I seem to have a short in the map light circuit, so I have the dash ripped apart. I will post up some pics tomorrow, it's not pretty... :dope:
I have decided to pull the Ford "Gold" remote start. I don't think it worked right and all the extra wiring is making it difficult to sort out other issues. I did get the high idle set up and connected to the Aux4 switch, one of the easiest mods I have ever done! :cheers:
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I was able to get the remote start removed, so that's good. They had wires going everywhere and wrapped around things.
I was able to get my hands on some wiring diagrams, so I hope to tackle the short tomorrow and get it sorted out or at least find a source for the issue. I sure hope it's not the relay in the cluster... :cry:
If I'm really lucky the 4 gauge pod will show up tomorrow so I can get that in too. Either way, I will start the wiring it up under the hood.
One question I have, is that with the truck being set up for "extras" is there a good place to pull "key on" power from. The current A-Pillar gauges power is pulled from the console plug in and I would think there is a better place.
Just so you guys have an idea of the "ingenuity" I am dealing with...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1487_zps276fa20d.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1487_zps276fa20d.jpg.html)
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You have a few routes to adding key on power from.
1st is from the fuse after the accessory Delay relay ( this is hot until the doors are open like the windows and radio ). Put an add-a-fuse in this slot, put the accessory delay fuse back in the primary slot, and up to a 10A in the added.
(http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-f250+-+f550-picture191367-2006-evtm-f350-130-1.jpg)
You did 1 of the customer access mods, so you should have these ( I cannot say for sure, have not looked at a 2006 F350 )
(http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-f250+-+f550-picture191368-2006-evtm-f350-140-1-cust-access.jpg)
(http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-f250+-+f550-picture191369-2006-evtm-f350-140-2-cust-access.jpg)
The last one I can think of straight away is to put an add-a-fuse in the trailer tow adapter battery charge relay fuse slot ( this is hot in run only, triggers the coil to the trailer tow battery charge relay )
(http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-f250+-+f550-picture191366-2006-evtm-f350-95-4.jpg)
If you need more than 8A ( 80% fuse rule ) for what you need this for, use the above to trigger the coil on a relay, and wire it to a maxi fuse and then to the battery directly.
Those are my suggestions, maybe an actual SuperDuty owner can give you some better ideas.
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Thanks Steve, the diagrams are very helpful.
I also found out last night that there is a wht/bl "Customer Access" wire that is fused in the fuse panel. I am going to try and find it today.
I only need enough amperage to run the gauges. I don't like where they currently pulled power from. I would say its 10amps at absolute max for my 4 gauges. My fuel pressure gauge and boost (light only) only add up to 1.5 amps.
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Did you mean White w/ Light Blue stripe ?
That is one in the diagram 140-1 above, CJB Fuse # 29, 10A.
Looks to be on the driver's side of the dash :
(http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-f250+-+f550-picture191378-2006-evtm-f350-c270a-location.jpg)
Black cam over connector, 24 pins
(http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/sscully-albums-f250+-+f550-picture191377-2006-evtm-f350-c270a.jpg)
You are looking for thew wire on pin #16.
These are 10A fuses, so if your load is 10A, you either need to split it between the White w/ Light Blue stripe wire ckt and an add-a-fuse to one of the above options or use it to trigger a relay coil.
- At 10A fuse, going with a load that close to the fuse size, it would pop quite often.
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Success! I am very glad to report that my troubleshooting was correct and the issue was in the vanity light circuit.
I really wish others gave a crap about what they did. Turns out the connector for the passenger visor was just bare pins on the harness side... :dope: Someone must have busted the plastic while doing the bodywork. I just taped it up for now, I think I have that connector somewhere to properly fix it.
Thanks for the assistance Steve, the above wire you mentioned (Blue with White stripe) is exactly what I was looking for. Turns out I'm lucky if the gauges draw 3 amps total so the 10 amp circuit will cut the mustard.
Dash all apart.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1488_zps5ac6cc10.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1488_zps5ac6cc10.jpg.html)
What I found under the door sill hunting down the short
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1489_zpsfe7434d1.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1489_zpsfe7434d1.jpg.html)
After
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1494_zpsbdaa9699.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1494_zpsbdaa9699.jpg.html)
The cause of the short... :moody:
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1490_zps9c4b0510.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1490_zps9c4b0510.jpg.html)
The Power with key on wire
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1492_zps4cbff365.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1492_zps4cbff365.jpg.html)
Power wire soldered up for the gauges. I still have to wire the rest up, but I'll clean it all up when I add the Fuel Pressure gauge. 4 gauge pod hasn't showed up yet.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1493_zps984f5c88.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1493_zps984f5c88.jpg.html)
Here the remote start I pulled out
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1495_zps05e6dc26.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1495_zps05e6dc26.jpg.html)
Gauges are next and the blue spring update while I am installing the sensor.
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i am going to say this again, you have balls..
this is so far out of touch to what I can do...I am amazed of this thread and the contribution of others....just freaking amazing me what you guys do.
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Don't you just love the way some folks "install" stuff? I can't tell you how many times I've had to fix stuff that was "professionally installed" - apparently by someone with nothing more than a pocket knife. Hope you're having more fun than I did!
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I actually am having some fun. Not happy about all the little problems, but there is satisfaction when you know you've fixed something.
Of course I came across other things that I fixed, but at least here is an updated List
- Fix tranny temp gauge, it doesn't work
- Install Fuel Pressure gauge - Halfway there...
- Install "Blue Spring update"
- Drivers door handle needs to be replaced (it was damaged during attempted break-in)
- Gauge wiring needs to be cleaned up
- Fix heat in drivers seat
- Set up one of the Aux switched for high-idle. If anyone knows where the aux switch wires go, let me know. I haven't found them yet.
- Wiring for running board LED's needs to be pulled (the strips are damaged and no longer work)
- Mount front plate
- Oil Change
- Fuel filter
- Running boards (only has one) :redneck:
- Figure out how the factory command start works, I think I need a different remote - I just yanked it
- Figure out a stereo
- Touch up paint and give it a serious Polish
- Detail interior
- Use my "Port a Power" and try to straighten out box
- Fix rear bumper sensors
- Polish or replace headlights
- Replace Grill (I may end up painting it with rhino liner it white???)
- Check out the whole front end
- put in new brakes
(Edit was to update List)
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Thanks to RR for his brilliant problem solving skills.
I have added the two spreadsheets to my box account.
These are filled with links and great info on the 6.0
Don't read if your faint of heart. They list EVERY problem... :whisp:
https://www.box.com/s/ni304gt3dpvrzi22sjr7 (https://www.box.com/s/ni304gt3dpvrzi22sjr7)
https://www.box.com/s/cz4whjp1l6pvlswy3y4h (https://www.box.com/s/cz4whjp1l6pvlswy3y4h)
Enjoy!
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Slowly making some progress. I was able to get the blue spring update done and get the running boards mounted. I really wanted to go for a bike ride today, so the truck was used and I noticed a considerable improvement with toe-in and starting after the spring install. Definitely a must do for 6.0 owners.
I also cleaned up the aftermarket gauge wiring and got the wiring in for the fuel pressure gauge. The 4 gauge pod is meant to be in tomorrow, so I hope to get it in some night this week.
I think I found a stereo for it, a mint used Pioneer AVIC-930BT with the map upgrade to be like the 940. I will have a look at it tomorrow as it's a high-dollar item in this project, I may have to hold off for a bit. I don't want to pick it up and then have to do a bunch of front end work and kill my budget.
The plan is to get it washed this week sometime to have a good idea of what I'm up against. I will probably spend some time on the interior before really hitting the paint.
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Just reading this thread stresses me out and makes my head hurt. I don't have the know-how or the patience for such a project. Kudos to you.
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Just reading this thread stresses me out and makes my head hurt. I don't have the know-how or the patience for such a project. Kudos to you.
true dat
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Thanks Guys, it has been a challenge. I come from a long line of hands on/ tech guys, so it is something I enjoy.
The 4 gauge pod showed up, so I hope to get that in tonight with the fuel pressure gauge!
On a side note, my Mac Mini crashed last night. so nw i have to figure that out too... :dope:
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Just reading this thread stresses me out and makes my head hurt. I don't have the know-how or the patience for such a project. Kudos to you.
What are you talking about, you dove head 1st into welding your new system on the truck !!
It is not that bad with the internet, you can usually find at least 5 videos that give you a few angles on working on something, that nothing is a surprise when you get into.
If you had the patience to weld that system I think you are not giving yourself enough credit.
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Just reading this thread stresses me out and makes my head hurt. I don't have the know-how or the patience for such a project. Kudos to you.
What are you talking about, you dove head 1st into welding your new system on the truck !!
It is not that bad with the internet, you can usually find at least 5 videos that give you a few angles on working on something, that nothing is a surprise when you get into.
If you had the patience to weld that system I think you are not giving yourself enough credit.
Agreed!^^^
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Haha. I look at wires and I want to shoot myself. You tell me what wires to splice together and I can do it. You tell me to figure wiring out on my own and you better hope its not on something of yours. I want no part of it.
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Haha. I look at wires and I want to shoot myself. You tell me what wires to splice together and I can do it. You tell me to figure wiring out on my own and you better hope its not on something of yours. I want no part of it.
OK, I can understand where you are coming from.
I've had to explain stuff to Brad before :redneck:
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I've had to explain stuff to Brad before :redneck:
You mean like Positive and Negative? :redneck:
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You mean like Positive and Negative? :redneck:
so you have helped him with electrical before ??
:redneck:
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You mean like Positive and Negative? :redneck:
so you have helped him with electrical before ??
:redneck:
Yes. It was, um, interesting.
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so you have helped him with electrical before ??
:redneck:
Yes. It was, um, interesting.
In the electrical Subform over at the F150 site, aside from the stickies at the top, his 2 threads have the highest post count to them and they are from 2003 & 2004 :wow:
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I actually go time to wash the truck yesterday. It is going to need some work, but not as bad as I initially thought.
Tonight I hope to get the fuel pressure gauge and headlights done. I'll post up some pics soon.
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Made a bit of progress, but not as much as I would like. I was able to get the 4 gauge pod installed with the fuel pressure gauge, but couldn't get the sending unit installed... :moody: The "nut" portion of the M12 to NPT adapter was to big and doesn't clear the fuel regulator spring cover. I think I'm going to look into a remote mount line.
I was also able to swap the headlights for a decent used pair I found. I figured I would try and take of the "cover" from the originals, but it looks to be some thick plastic with adhesive on the whole thing. I'll polish the replacements when I do all the glass on the truck.
I was also able to fix the tranny temp gauge, it was just the power and sensor wires were backwards on the gauge for whatever reason. :dope:
New gauges (can you tell which one doesn't belong... :redneck:)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130506_214922_236_zps1437a01d.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130506_214922_236_zps1437a01d.jpg.html)
Headlights I pulled off
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1539_zpsf7b53457.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1539_zpsf7b53457.jpg.html)
The "film" that covers the lights. The adhesive is really thick.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1541_zpsbe70baad.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1541_zpsbe70baad.jpg.html)
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progress brother! Awesome Pillar looks great
I am working on an oil leak on my F250 right now. Seems to be leaking from the top and running down the back of the engine on both sides.
I hit it with APC+ and Simple Green and washed it off to see if i could isolate the leak.
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progress brother! Awesome Pillar looks great
I am working on an oil leak on my F250 right now. Seems to be leaking from the top and running down the back of the engine on both sides.
I hit it with APC+ and Simple Green and washed it off to see if i could isolate the leak.
If memory serves me correctly, there's an O-rIng up near the turbo housing that goes and causes that one.
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progress brother! Awesome Pillar looks great
I am working on an oil leak on my F250 right now. Seems to be leaking from the top and running down the back of the engine on both sides.
I hit it with APC+ and Simple Green and washed it off to see if i could isolate the leak.
If memory serves me correctly, there's an O-rIng up near the turbo housing that goes and causes that one.
Tom,you nailed it on the head with the cause of the oil leak. Mine has been leaking there for a couple years now and Ford actually says not to touch them until you have significant oil loss.
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...<snip>...
I was also able to swap the headlights for a decent used pair I found. I figured I would try and take of the "cover" from the originals, but it looks to be some thick plastic with adhesive on the whole thing. I'll polish the replacements when I do all the glass on the truck.
...<snip>...
That looks like headlight rock guard film.
Few years back it got big, some vendors were selling pre-cut ones for headlamps, protection from rocks.
Husky ( husky liners ), 3M and a a few other vendors ( Avery ) make them.
Don't think it is the same as the 3M 1080 film, that does not use water for applying them.
- The Husky ones I think go on like window tint, you float the film on the surface with a solution, and squeegee it down.
Maybe a take a look at window tint removal, or try to find the Husky directions ( they claim it comes off "easy" ).
Once you get them off and polished, might want to think about Optimum Opti Lens coating. You might take a bit of the factory UV coating off them, and need to replace it with something.
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Peel the film off using a hair dryer and hit the adhesive with Windex to remove the adhesive. That's how I've removed the tint adhesive from car windows and it's also the reason why window tint places tell you not to use Windex is because it will fade the tint and attack the adhesive.
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Made a bit of progress, but not as much as I would like. I was able to get the 4 gauge pod installed with the fuel pressure gauge, but couldn't get the sending unit installed... :moody: The "nut" portion of the M12 to NPT adapter was to big and doesn't clear the fuel regulator spring cover. I think I'm going to look into a remote mount line.
Ryan, there are a few options to solve this you can either do a regulated fuel return with the sensor mounted remotely or you can do a billet fuel filter cap instead of trying to fight getting that fitting on the bottom of the fuel filter bowl. I would say do the regulated fuel return because it ties the fuel rails together and prevents dead heading of the injectors at the end of the fuel rails. It's not cheap at almost $700 but it's cheaper than injectors and labor to replace them.
Ask me how I know............ :moody:
Here is what everything looks like under of the hood of my truck.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/dsq1975/IMG_20130312_141904_8581_zps361dda85.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/dsq1975/media/IMG_20130312_141904_8581_zps361dda85.jpg.html)
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Thanks For the suggestions guys. I will try to get that film off. If the cracking that I'm seeing is on the covers, I may end up re-using the original lights.
For the Fuel pressure sensor, I am going to try and remove the the spring cover and see if I can get the adapter in there. I really can't spend the money on the fuel return system right now. I looked under the front of the truck last night and fear some money will have to be spent on the front end....
My Tarminator and Metal RX just arrived from Justin! Looking forward to seeing what we can get cleaned up.
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Two thumbs up on the Tarminator and Metal RX. I messed around with one of the exhaust tips yesterday. I'll post up some pics this evening, but for how rough they were, they came out well with just a few minutes of work. The Tarminator also worked well on breaking up the soot caked on the edge of the tip.
I also hit a small section of one rim with Metal RX. It took the caked on brake dust right off and left the finish noticeably brighter.
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For the wheels, might want to try Poorboys World Spray & Rinse.
I did a quick "no touch" wash of the SIL's new to her Mustang, and they turned out great.
- Have no idea when the last time they were cleaned was, the PO was not too interested in taking care of it.
http://poorboysworld.net/board/showthread.php?1446-Spray-and-Rinse-Proof (http://poorboysworld.net/board/showthread.php?1446-Spray-and-Rinse-Proof)
Bit of agitation with and old sponge and I am sure it would have taken off everything.
Might be worth a try to get the bulk of the gunk off before going after it with Metal RX.
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Two thumbs up on the Tarminator and Metal RX. I messed around with one of the exhaust tips yesterday. I'll post up some pics this evening, but for how rough they were, they came out well with just a few minutes of work. The Tarminator also worked well on breaking up the soot caked on the edge of the tip.
I also hit a small section of one rim with Metal RX. It took the caked on brake dust right off and left the finish noticeably brighter.
Do you have the factory wheels or aftermarket? The reason I ask is that the factory wheels are clear coated and you don't want to use metal polish on them. If they're aftermarket, knock yourself out!
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Do you have the factory wheels or aftermarket? The reason I ask is that the factory wheels are clear coated and you don't want to use metal polish on them. If they're aftermarket, knock yourself out!
They are stock, but after looking at them and seeing the corrosion, etc. around the lug nuts, I am fairly certain that they are raw. I am going to have another look though as I may have messed up. is there an easy way to tell?
Here are some pics
Before I hit it with metal RX
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1547_zpsa4e2d0c4.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1547_zpsa4e2d0c4.jpg.html)
After
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1548_zps12d8f587.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1548_zps12d8f587.jpg.html)
Here is the tip before (it was washed and scrubbed with a stiff brush)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1542_zps663245a8.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1542_zps663245a8.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1543_zps3f17fc9c.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1543_zps3f17fc9c.jpg.html)
After Tarminator
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1544_zps5b1d0acc.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1544_zps5b1d0acc.jpg.html)
After being hit with Metal RX twice
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1546_zps92d4f2d0.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1546_zps92d4f2d0.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the tip on the Spray & Rinse Steve. I am pretty sure I still have some left. I'll give it a shot this weekend if the weather holds up.
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Those are OEM wheels and they are normally clear coated. You can tell pretty quickly if you apply metal polish to an uncoated wheel, you'll get a black residue on your polishing rag. That's the oxidation coming off. With clear coat, you won't get any - unless the wheel is a real mess. I'd stay away from metal polish with those.
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You could Always play it safe and use Poorboys PP. It works good as a metal polish but it great for paint.
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The Metal Rx will still actually be fine for the wheels even if they are clear coated. I use Metal Rx on clear coated wheels all of the time, also works great on headlights and taillights. For those tips, you can use some fine steel wool, that should take off the rest of the residue on there, I do this quite a bit too.
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The Metal Rx will still actually be fine for the wheels even if they are clear coated. I use Metal Rx on clear coated wheels all of the time, also works great on headlights and taillights.
Good to know Justin. I wasn't aware of that. As for other metal polishes, I'd still avoid them though.
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Thanks everyone. I thought I had some steel wool for the tips, but I hae to go and pick some up.
Right after I asked the question TS, I thought of the "Black" signs of bare metal. However I can't recall if there was any...
I will be hitting the wheels again tonight to see if I can clean them up a it more. I have some Spray & Rinse I can use up.
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I had an hour to kill this afternoon so I wrangled up my wife and we tinted the back window. Definitely not my best tint job, but it will do till I get a sliding window for it.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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Three more things checked off the list today.
- Drivers door handle replaced
- Oil Change done
- Fuel filters replaced (water separator filter and 2nd filter on top of motor.)
The drivers door handle was really straight forward. I took the truck in for the oil and fuel filters. Pretty pricey, but I knew a diesel wasn't going to be cheap.
I couldn't help it any longer and loaded the performance tune that came with the truck. Pretty darn impressive :whisp: Fuel economy seems to be better and drive-ability seems to be way better overall. It's a pretty conservative tune and I am by no means an aggressive driver, so it's gonna stay loaded. :judge:
It's supposed to rain all week, but if there is a break, I am going to finish up the fuel pressure sensor install. I ended up going with a glow shift adapter for the fuel test port. Should be really quick to get in.
One of the other things I would like to get on are the front flaps. I am a little concerned about the clearance with the over sized tires, but will have to make them work. The amount of crap the tires throw is kinda crazy.
Making progress! I can't wait to get some paint correction started, you guys are going to die when you see close ups of the marring in this paint.
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If you think the performance tune rocks wait until you get a tow tune in it and tow something really heavy. I had 10,000 pounds of skid steer and trailer behind my truck all weekend towing it about 175 miles overall and it just walked up hills like the trailer wasn't even there. The fuel mileage sucked but it towed like a dream.
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I am looking forward to seeing how it tows the edge on the car hauler. I am guessing all loaded up (incl. trailer), it will be around 7000lbs.
I have a custom tow tune, but I hope that it doesn't become too terrible on fuel, I have a lot of miles to cover in July with it.
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Are you using a SCT tuner?
If so, who's tunes
If you need tunes I know a guy i Texas, he blows away Eric at Innovative. This guys Tow tune (don't laugh at the name) Called 8-13K tow tune will impress the hell out of you yet it stays within the capability of the equipment.
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The truck chewed through 3/4's of a tank of diesel in 175 miles towing this weekend so using previous towing numbers I got around 10-11 MPG with a sticking brake on the trailer and compared to the 15-17 the truck usually get's with the Xtreme Street tune. I need to add an Aux fuel tank if I want to tow for longer distances and not fill up every 200 miles.
Jason, I'm interested in the name of your tuning guy if his tunes are that good because I'm about to spend the money to have the tunes rewritten since the truck is studded now.
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The truck chewed through 3/4's of a tank of diesel in 175 miles towing this weekend so using previous towing numbers I got around 10-11 MPG with a sticking brake on the trailer and compared to the 15-17 the truck usually get's with the Xtreme Street tune. I need to add an Aux fuel tank if I want to tow for longer distances and not fill up every 200 miles.
Jason, I'm interested in the name of your tuning guy if his tunes are that good because I'm about to spend the money to have the tunes rewritten since the truck is studded now.
Matt Robinson
Gearhead Automotive Performance
979-703-7338
www.gearheadautomotiveperformance.com (http://www.gearheadautomotiveperformance.com)
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Very cool. I do want better tunes, but they aren't in the cards right now. I actually have two tuners...an Xcal3 and a Livewire.
I hope I can get slightly better MPG's than Dave, but not holding my breath. I have 2100 miles to cover, so I hope I can do better than 10 tanks of gas. 10 tanks of gas would cost me around $2200! :dope:
The weather is meant to clear up this weekend, so I hope to start some detailing soon!
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Ryan, I filled up last night and figured my mileage and I got 10.88 MPG out of that tank of diesel.
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Hopefully pulling 3000#'s less will make a bit of a difference. At least I'm just pulling a small trailer through the mountains and the car through the prairies.
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With a tow tune, how much weight do you pull before hitting the "Tow/Haul" button on the shifter???
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With a tow tune, how much weight do you pull before hitting the "Tow/Haul" button on the shifter???
With my little 4x4 ATV and trailer I don't use T/H. That is maybe 1500lbs. Its a good idea to use it as it kicks in extra cooling if needed and more importantly the transmission cooler and gearing.
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With a tow tune, how much weight do you pull before hitting the "Tow/Haul" button on the shifter???
With my little 4x4 ATV and trailer I don't use T/H. That is maybe 1500lbs. Its a good idea to use it as it kicks in extra cooling if needed and more importantly the transmission cooler and gearing.
I figured around the 2000# mark, glad to know I'm not too far off.
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With a tow tune, how much weight do you pull before hitting the "Tow/Haul" button on the shifter???
With my little 4x4 ATV and trailer I don't use T/H. That is maybe 1500lbs. Its a good idea to use it as it kicks in extra cooling if needed and more importantly the transmission cooler and gearing.
I figured around the 2000# mark, glad to know I'm not too far off.
I may go as far as saying...anything you tow that has brakes needs T/H mode. your truck won't feel 2-3K.
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Since it ended up raining yesterday and is meant to rain tomorrow, I decided to hold off on doing more detailing on the Edge.
I wanted to knock some stuff off the truck list.
I found a used Stereo. It's a Pioneer AVIC-F700BT, not the best, but it will do the trick. Unfortunately, the GPS Antenna is damaged so I gotta pick up a new one.
I installed it with a Sirius tuner at the same time.
Here are some wires...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130608_174552_475_zpsb8823c77.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130608_174552_475_zpsb8823c77.jpg.html)
Sirius Antenna location
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130608_174615_504_zps89cd26ca.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130608_174615_504_zps89cd26ca.jpg.html)
I then installed some new Front Speakers, Ended up going with a new set of Alpines with directional tweeters. Of course, just like everything else I look at on this truck, something needed to be fixed...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1615_zps1bdbc21a.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1615_zps1bdbc21a.jpg.html)
I ended up just taping them up nicely and then putting some loom on them
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1616_zpsb1b2c9f5.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1616_zpsb1b2c9f5.jpg.html)
Speakers installed
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1617_zps27ad1485.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1617_zps27ad1485.jpg.html)
Then moved onto finally getting the Fuel Pressure sending unit installed. I ended up just finding an adapter, had to get it shipped from Alberta, but it saved me a lot of hassle. The big one wouldn't clear the housing.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1619_zpsf498d418.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1619_zpsf498d418.jpg.html)
Fuel Pressure sensor installed. I may end up turning it so it's horizontal to keep air from getting trapped.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1621_zps94d662a9.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1621_zps94d662a9.jpg.html)
The final thing was to "adjust the door" on the front passenger side. It wasn't lined up very well at the corner between the A-pillar and roof. I used an old body-man trick. I wrapped a tie-down strap around the outside of the door at the point where it stuck furthest out, then ran it over the roof, around the cab and back in the cab. I then simply pulled on the door to "Bend" in the top of the door.
Before
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1622_zps95578f4d.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1622_zps95578f4d.jpg.html)
After
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1623_zpsd60e82c7.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1623_zpsd60e82c7.jpg.html)
It might be hard to tell, but it moved in almost a quarter inch.
Getting closer :cheers:
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I was pretty excited yesterday when I was finally able to pull out the PC.
Didn't have too much time, but I ended up claying half the hood, front passenger fender and Passenger door. I then assessed the situation as best I could and tried some product. The hood looks to be original paint and is on the hazy side, seems to be mostly from stuff on the paint rather than in. I hit it with M105 and Justins 4" (I think it's 4.25")MF pad. Worked really well and the pad was easy to clean. Also tried a orange LC pad, It correct well, but proved more difficult to clean.
Since the paint all along the passenger side is only a year old, I didn't get quite as aggressive. I pulled out the Meg's MF kit and used the Burgundy pad and correction compound. Since I was going to be using Opti-Coat, I followed up with M205 on a white LC pad. I figured it was going to rain today so all prepped surfaces were just hit with Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax. I'll IPA it off before re-prepping and doing the Opti-Coat. It was dark by the time I was done, so no pics yet. It is meant to be nice later on this week and I hope to be able to knock out a big chunk of this paint then.
Kinda wish I still had the rotary for the first step... :dope:
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It's been raining off and on around here the past week, so no detailing. I was able to knock a couple of small things off the list. I fixed the drivers side washer fluid nozzle. Easy fix, just a cracked hose and I also added some more fasteners to the passenger side running board. I am guessing the the reason why one was missing is because it was damaged in the crash. After taking a look at the running board it appeared to be bent down. I just used a couple of floor jack and jacked it up till it was a little past level. Since I went nice a slow it actually pulled out the bent in body work under the truck quite nicely.
I am running out of time so I hope the weather cooperates ans I can address the interior and the paint.
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My GPS Antenna just showed up! I can try and get that installed too. :cheers:
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I hope to get some pics up tonight. With the help from the wife (she clayed her little heart out), I was able to get both sides and the tailgate done.
M105/UC 80/20% with MF pads and then Orange LC pads once I ran out of MF pads. And then M205 on a white pad. IPA Wipe down and then Opti-Coat 2.0
Very Dirty paint, it actually changed shades after polishing. I am going to tackle the hood this evening and get some good 50/50s
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That should be a good combination (105/205) to bring that bad boy back to life. Of course then you're going to have the joy of trying to actually catch it in some pics! What are you using for an LSP?
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I was able to get the hood and headlights done last night. Took 3 hours...
I took some pics that I have to post up. I forgot to bring the camera to work today. I'm not really sure if I am going to put anything on the Opti-Coat. I may pick up some Opti-Seal From Justin when I get to the states, but for now I don't really have anything that will "stick" to it.
Any suggestions on prepping the front of the vehicles for the onslaught of bug next week?
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It is recommended not to put anything on Opti Coat.
1. Anything that is applied to it will last 30 days at best, wax or sealant.
2. The surface will take on the characteristics of what you top it with, for the short amount of time it is on there, and after about 10 days this will be spotty coverage.
- Some areas will be back to the anti stick formulation of Opti Coat, where others will still have what you applied over it, and the anti stick will not be there.
Dr G posted this some time back, it is designed to resist anything sticking to it.
i.e. You won't find anything that will stick to it.
All it takes it a QD ratio of ONR to add a fresh "just waxed" look to it.
- That is the point of it, minimal maintenance. That is why I did the roof, cap and tailgate of the truck and so far the front of the G6.
As for the bugs; PoorBoys World Bird S#it remover.
- Works better than Bug Squash in my book.
I drive to Indy at least once per week, and the trip down is always after 8:00 PM and the trip back is 50% after 7:00 PM, so the front of the truck get pelted with a thick layer of bugs.
When I get in town and have time, I know where I stay, where the local coin op is at.
I hose down the front of the truck with Bird S#it remover, let it dwell a bit and just use the rinse cycle to take it off.
At the very least I use the lighting under the canopy at the lobby area and clean the windshield with a gas station type bug squeegee ( 32" handle ) and the Bird S#it remover and follow up with a PB Spray & Wipe cleaning.
If you opticoated the front already, you are good to go.
I have never tried ( due to not believing ) the apply Pam to the front, just let it be and clean it off when you get to the other side.
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Awesome, thanks for the info Steve, very helpful.
Finally, what you've all been waiting for, some pics!
I didn't get started off too great. I mixed up a fresh batch of M105/UC and proceeded to knock out the passenger front fender and front door, then decided it would be best to move the truck a wee bit to get it in the shade. Well I was a dumb A** and left the bottle of polish on the front tire and managed to run it right over spraying polish all over the truck... :dope:
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1718_zps0a897b1f.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1718_zps0a897b1f.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1719_zps87de68dd.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1719_zps87de68dd.jpg.html)
Here are some before shots
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1721_zps56f95878.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1721_zps56f95878.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1729_zps031c064f.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1729_zps031c064f.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1730_zps0718ec4a.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1730_zps0718ec4a.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1731_zps561db15c.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1731_zps561db15c.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1740_zpsf9293076.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1740_zpsf9293076.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1747_zpsc68cf6b9.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1747_zpsc68cf6b9.jpg.html)
The hood was particularly nasty and took considerable patience to get looking decent. You don't even need sun to see what's up in these 50/50's
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1744_zps7207c81d.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1744_zps7207c81d.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1742_zpse913fd4b.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1742_zpse913fd4b.jpg.html)
This is the clay after a small 10"x10" section on the hood
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1741_zps46678d82.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1741_zps46678d82.jpg.html)
Some afters
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1727_zpsaf1e4788.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1727_zpsaf1e4788.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1728_zpsce1fb059.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1728_zpsce1fb059.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1733_zpsfdb4cf83.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1733_zpsfdb4cf83.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1736_zps0c763413.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1736_zps0c763413.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1748_zpsa85c3f63.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1748_zpsa85c3f63.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1749_zps43ba5426.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1749_zps43ba5426.jpg.html)
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Last night was focused on getting the carpet done. Basically ripped out all the seats vacuumed, tackled what I could with some diluted APC and a stiff carpet brush and then used the LGM to suck whatever nastyness out of the carpet I could. It's far from perfect, but looks and smells way, way better.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1750_zps327e91ca.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1750_zps327e91ca.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1751_zps340c1603.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1751_zps340c1603.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1752_zps261f2c75.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1752_zps261f2c75.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1754_zps32b3287e.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1754_zps32b3287e.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1753_zps9729718b.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1753_zps9729718b.jpg.html)
The "chocolate milk" looking stuff that came out of the carpet....
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1755_zpsad4d9f43.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1755_zpsad4d9f43.jpg.html)
And afterwards.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1756_zps0b72e583.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1756_zps0b72e583.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1757_zpsf8abba25.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1757_zpsf8abba25.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1758_zpsf947492e.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1758_zpsf947492e.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1759_zpsf18809d8.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1759_zpsf18809d8.jpg.html)
I then put the seats all back in and left the windows open a crack so it can dry out today. Thankfully it is going to be hot and sunny so it should dry out quick.
Next up is the plastics (I cleaned and protected the plastics that were blocked by the seats already) and the seats.
I need some assistance on trying to get paint over spray off some of the interior plastics. I haven't tried anything yet, but open to suggestions. I think they left the drivers window open when they painted the passenger side. I can post up some pics later.
I am thinking ISO or acetone.
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Awesome turn around and great pictures! Doesn't Oxford White look great when it basically drips off the vehicle?
As for the interior, that too looks awesome. I kind of wish the rinse tank drained itself to a sanitary sewer so I didn't have to look at it. Some of the stuff I've pulled out of customer cars was somewhere between just plain hazardous waste and nuclear waste.
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Man, that looks good. The dullness on the hood was crazy. The reflection of the tree just disappeared all together. And I love a clean interior. E en more than the outside. Nice turn around. Do yourself a favor and do a pass or two with clean water on the carpets after you use the APC. You'd be surprised what you pull out yet. And left over soap attracts dirt faster. Using clean water in the solution tank or even just from a spray bottle and sucking that back out will probably yield another tank similar to that brown one. I'm guilty of putting bottles and whatnot in stupid places too. I put everything on the tires or right under the running boards so I don't kick it. I've actually gone to move my expedition one day and forgot I empty the back out on to the ground... including the third row seat. I ran over a full bottle of antifreeze which squirted all over the third row seat and then proceeded to run over the third row before I realized something wasnt quite right.
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Thanks Guys, I hope to finish up the dash tonight. I will probably hit the carpet again with just water to see what comes out.
Still on the detailing list.
- Opti-Coat the roof
- Wheels, Tires and wheel wells
- Dash and interior plastics
- Running board plastics and chrome polish
- front upper bumper cover polish (may paint it, not sure yet)
- Grill peel and paint
Can I Opti-Coat over Opti-Coat? I may have a few areas I didn't get enough coverage. I don't think I used as much product as I should have. Only about 5cc on the truck, but I haven't done the roof yet.
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Can I Opti-Coat over Opti-Coat? I may have a few areas I didn't get enough coverage. I don't think I used as much product as I should have. Only about 5cc on the truck, but I haven't done the roof yet.
With the newest stuff, yes. I asked Justin the same question. Apparently the original stuff wouldn't stick to itself.
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...<snip>...
Can I Opti-Coat over Opti-Coat? I may have a few areas I didn't get enough coverage. I don't think I used as much product as I should have. Only about 5cc on the truck, but I haven't done the roof yet.
Yes you can do multiple coats.
The time delay between coats, or if something needs to be done I have seen multiple answers to.
I always recoat within 30 min if I am unsure on coverage.
I have seen 30 days up to 90 days ( sounds like BS to me, but that is supposition on my part ).
might want to see if Justin answers up, as the process to re-coat after a cure is to polish the surface ( need to rough it up a bit ), but I don't think it is a good idea to polish what you have, as it is still in a curing state ( some might be done, others not in direct sun might not ).
Sorry I don't have a good answer on the how long between, I have just seen too many answers on it, and none of them were from Dr G.
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Thanks for the responses. Maybe Just has some info too.
Now onto my paint over-spray problem... I seem to have been able to remove the over-spray from all surfaces but the black textured plastic on the dash. See photo. Any chemicals I have tried (Wax/Grease remover, Final Solvent wipe, Acetone, etc.) all see to hurt the plastic before the over spray comes off.
Clay worked well for the flat plastic "Wood Grain" and acetone on the gray textured plastic (using with extreme caution)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130708_210530_035_zps3197958c.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130708_210530_035_zps3197958c.jpg.html)
Any thought or suggestions are welcome. If I can't get it out, I will just end up re-painting the piece.
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do you have a spot you can try a Mr Clean magic eraser on it ?
It looks like textured black plastic, so it might be OK to use.
I have used them on older Dodge fender "flares" ( the black plastic cover over the body to give it the buskwacker look ) with good luck, they were textured and any marring it induced was hidden with the texture when viewed up close.
Just a thought short of painting them.
- denatured alcohol I would suspect would melt them or at least make them soft. It does with latex house paint ( good way to cover small nail holes without patch and paint ).
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Great thought Steve, I do have a "test spot" that I can give that a shot on.
I'll post up results!
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Well we had to hit the road before I could get anything else detailed on the truck. It has worked really well and I must have a tank at least double the size of Dave's. I figured roughly 14mpg's going through the Rockies pulling 6000#'s. I was able to get 560 miles to the tank. After dropping the trailer and with just a loaded up truck, I can easily get over 600 miles on a tank. Probably 17ish mpg's.
Truck made a pit stop in Winnipeg to get the front end fixed. It only needed the tie-rod ends and inner/outter Drag links. Ball-joints, hubs and track bar were all good and are still original. I ended up going with MOOG parts for the warranty and I know I can keep them greased.
We have about 1700 miles on the clock now as we are doing some visiting in North-West Ontario for a week before heading south. I'll post up some pics once the car is up on the car-hauler.
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Glad you're truck is performing well. My 5er is like towing a brick wall behind my truck and if I remember the best I got was 14.5 towing the car trailer with a SCAB 4x4 F150 on it and running winter blend diesel. How far down are you running the tank before you fill up? I try and never let mine get much below half.
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Glad you're truck is performing well. My 5er is like towing a brick wall behind my truck and if I remember the best I got was 14.5 towing the car trailer with a SCAB 4x4 F150 on it and running winter blend diesel. How far down are you running the tank before you fill up? I try and never let mine get much below half.
I'm really not pulling the same loads you are, but I will let it get down to the quarter mark. There are some pretty big gaps between fill stations crossing some parts, so I have to plan well in advance.
I'm sure that most spots I am getting diesel from are out of winter blend. In Vancouver, one fuel truck driver told me they never even use it because of the moderate temps.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/24/utu4utyt.jpg)
Pulls the car like a champ. In Minneapolis now and hope to arrive at the new place by tomorrow night.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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looking good.
I can get 14 towing our 5er IF we have a 20+ mph tail wind and I am tucked behind an 18wheeler. :)
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Well the big trip is all done. 3100miles total after going to visit into Ontario and back.
Pulled the car for pretty much 1000miles. Truck did great, I averaged about 75mph and still saw 14mpg's. I was able to get better mileage via foot vs. Cruise control, so I went with foot as much as I could.
Empty I saw great numbers, around 17.5-18.5 cruising around the 65-70mph mark. Zero issues during the whole trip and the truck will be needing another oil change soon.
Looks like I will be putting some miles on for work in the next little while to go see clients and such in the area. I'll need to ask RR what he did for a subwoofer and may look at 33" tires.
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We have arrived and are all set up. I was pleasantly surprised that we get a garage as part of the rental. It's pretty small, but I can squeak in the truck if I need to store it for while. Since all my house duties were completed, I wanted to get a couple things on the truck done.
The big one was getting the grill stripped and painted. I knew this one was going to suck, but I don't have cash for a new grill (I would rather spend the coin on a bigger polisher...) So I popped the grill off and found that I could easily separate the black "Mesh" from the chrome part of the grill. I pulled them apart and then began the process of peeling. I basically just used my fingers and a scraper razor blade. It took a solid 5 hours to peel the whole thing, some parts were better "adhered" to the plastic than others. I am pretty sure the bubbling was caused by moisture getting in between the plastic and chrome and then freezing. Once the chrome was all peeled off, I hit the whole thing with 600 grit and got in all the nooks and crannies. I chose to go with the Krylon plastic paint mostly because it would stick. I applied approx. 8-9 coats of the white to the grill and went through to whole cans of paint to do it. I then hit it with the Krylon clear which is meant to have some UV protectant in it. I will let it cure for a week before I buff it and hit it with Opti-Coat.
If anyone does try this please be very carful, the chrome is very, very sharp. I am a pretty cautious guy and I still had to run for the band-aids on a few occasions.
This one DID happen... :crazy:
Chrome separated from the black backing
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130802_174107_873_zps72a67487.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130802_174107_873_zps72a67487.jpg.html)
After the whole grill was peeled
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130804_101100_999_zps68336c77.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130804_101100_999_zps68336c77.jpg.html)
Close up
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130804_101111_009_zpsfdd6c33b.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130804_101111_009_zpsfdd6c33b.jpg.html)
All sanded down, hung up and ready for paint
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1802_zps74dd6865.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1802_zps74dd6865.jpg.html)
After the first coat
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1803_zpsd7a829c3.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1803_zpsd7a829c3.jpg.html)
Paint used
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1804_zps46d791b4.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1804_zps46d791b4.jpg.html)
All done. It doesn't match 100% but it will have to do for now.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1806_zpsdc24804b.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1806_zpsdc24804b.jpg.html)
Close up
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1808_zps2a6bafc3.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1808_zps2a6bafc3.jpg.html)
I also decided to strip the Ford Emblem as it was peeling/fading and looking like crap. I may order a custom painted one, but not sure yet
Here is what it looked like before
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130802_174127_098_zps7dda6a7a.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130802_174127_098_zps7dda6a7a.jpg.html)
While I was at it, I also wanted to tackle the rest of the emblems. They were peeling, so I started with the old "Acetone" trick and soon became bored of it. I thought that a "plastic" scraper would probably work to get the paint off without hurting the chrome. I was right! It saved me a lot of time and with the bonus of not having to deal with Acetone...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1809_zpsb2265bd5.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1809_zpsb2265bd5.jpg.html)
If anyone is interested in the "Skrapr" here is a link. It has come in handy more than once...
http://www.theskrapr.com/the-original-skrapr (http://www.theskrapr.com/the-original-skrapr)
Next up, Wheels! :hp:
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My custom black Ford Emblems arrived int the mail today :whisp:
I'll have to get them on tomorrow and post up some pics. They look pretty good.
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...<snip>...
If anyone is interested in the "Skrapr" here is a link. It has come in handy more than once...
[url]http://www.theskrapr.com/the-original-skrapr[/url] ([url]http://www.theskrapr.com/the-original-skrapr[/url])
Next up, Wheels! :hp:
Just ordered a set of these off Amazon tonight. Thanks for the suggestion, sure they will go great with the trim tools that I have
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that looks REALLY good dude.
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I was able to install the badges today. Pretty straight forward swap.
Grill and tail gate before. The tailgate emblem almost looks black stock, but it isn't. mostly due to the crappy pic.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1812_zps7072da82.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1812_zps7072da82.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1816_zpsd22a9f2f.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1816_zpsd22a9f2f.jpg.html)
After new badges installed
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1813_zps5627ba9c.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1813_zps5627ba9c.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1817_zps0978c5c5.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1817_zps0978c5c5.jpg.html)
I'll hit them with Opti-Coat when I hit the remaining items.
I decided t make myself a quick to do list. 23 items... :dope: Mostly polish, opti-coat, paint stuff.
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If anyone has any tips on cleaning seat-belts, please share.
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If anyone has any tips on cleaning seat-belts, please share.
I've found that using a steam cleaner is the best way to clean seat belts.
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Thanks Justin. I don't have one and might try power clean with a brush and then water followed by the shop vac.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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General clean, enettez Cokcpit premium and a PB work towel.
- Heavy clean PB ACP mixed 15:1 and a work towel.
I spray it, and work it back and forth with the towel.
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Thanks Justin. I don't have one and might try power clean with a brush and then water followed by the shop vac.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
That will work great too, OPC diluted down to like 5:1 will work.
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I was able to get some things done today. I added 6x8" Kickers in the rear and a 200w (RMS) 4 channel amp. I already had the Alpines in the front, so with the Amp it sure picked up the sound. I found a Clarion Amp that is only about an inch and a quarter thick and about the size of a dollar bill. It fit well behind the dash and made routing of wires pretty easy.
I also used some Meg's all wheel cleaner since I didn't seem to bring my Spray and Rinse to prep the wheels for polishing. I also pulled the running boards off to paint under the doors and to polish the boards before re-install.
The grill, all of the glass and one wheel were polished. I am trying to get everything lined up for Opti-Coat.
Big thanks to Steve, the Magic Eraser worked really well in getting the overspray off of the dash. I have pics that I will post up tomorrow.
I hope to get some painting done and tackle the seat belts tomorrow. Maybe if things go well, I can Opti-Coat a bunch of stuff.
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Someone I know called Optimum direct and inquired about Opti-coating wheels. If I remember right, its a yearly application for wheels.
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Someone I know called Optimum direct and inquired about Opti-coating wheels. If I remember right, its a yearly application for wheels.
Thank you, I thought it would last OK. I would be doing them at least annually regardless.
I grossly underestimated the time it would take me today to get things done. I need to take some more after pics, they will come later.
I sanded, ISP'd and painted the quarter panels under the doors. Polished the running boards with Metal Rx and re-installed. I then polished and waxed all the door jams. I still need to spend some time on the door hinges and very bottoms of the doors, maybe next weekend. I then polished the grill and hit the grill and upper front bumper cover with Opti-Coat. I wanted to get the front done since I have a trip to Chicago planned for Tuesday. I then tackled all the center caps. I must say that Justin's Metal Rx is pretty darn good for this, Cleaned them up really nice.
Here is what the dash looked like after using the magic eraser.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1823_zpsc92b4914.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1823_zpsc92b4914.jpg.html)
Center Caps. Bottom one is done. The pic really doesn't do it justice.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130818_123147_765_zps44e1e4a6.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130818_123147_765_zps44e1e4a6.jpg.html)
Here is the front end all done.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1837_zps396eea82.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1837_zps396eea82.jpg.html)
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Had to go out for supper, so not much was done today. I rainx'd the windows and mirrors, dressed the tires with Meg's Hot Spray Tire Shine and hit all the exterior trim with Meg's Ultimate interior/exterior trim protectant.
Door jams done
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1843_zpsac636d45.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1843_zpsac636d45.jpg.html)
All dressed up and ready for Chicago tomorrow
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1841_zps51bfe59d.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1841_zps51bfe59d.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1844_zpsfa4d2b6c.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1844_zpsfa4d2b6c.jpg.html)
Due to the marring on the wheels, I may try to wet-sand first, but the clear seems soft, not sure how the clear will respond to sandpaper. I played with the drivers front wheel using a 4" LC (flat) orange pad and 105. Really improved the look, but there is still some noticeable marring. I hope to get back to the interior this weekend to clean up the seat belts and hit the trim with protectant. I may even try polishing the faux wood bits to see if they will clean up a bit.
I seem to be all over the place, but I'm checking items off the list and just hitting what catches my eye too.
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Great work! You are really turning this truck around, it looks awesome!
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I think the truck looks awesome too! I'd be careful with how hard you hit the wheels though. The clearcoat is actually the thinnest at the edges of each ridge line - and that's where you tend to take the most off when polishing.
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Thanks Tom, that's why I was thinking about wet-sanding the flat surfaces first so I'm not polishing as long. I'm only polishing the "face" of the wheel. The rest will just get a quick hit by hand.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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I spent a wee bit of time with the truck today. I wanted to "flip" the drivers seatbelt and clean the driver and front passenger seat belts. Doesn't really seem like many people sat it the back and they looked pretty clean.
The seat belt flip was challenging, but I got it done. For whatever reason the buckle on the drivers seat was facing to the door so you had to flip it over in order to buckle up and you didn't have a nice flat belt.
I then moved onto cleaning the seat belts. I used Optimum Power Clean and then rubbed with a brush and towel. I was making some head way as the towel was coming out brown, but the belt just didn't seem to be getting super clean. I then had a brainstorm and went to the coin wash. Basically I pulled the belt out as far as it would go and then put it outside of the door. I then used the pressure washer on it. I think it worked great. I wouldn't really recommend it since there was power clean being blasted onto the paint, but I plan on doing some more polishing in a bit.
Here is what the belt looked like before
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1845_zps62963236.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1845_zps62963236.jpg.html)
here was my brainstorm, I did end up moving it over off of the keypad
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1847_zps5aee7d28.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1847_zps5aee7d28.jpg.html)
And a pretty clear 50/50
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1848_zps46f0e872.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1848_zps46f0e872.jpg.html)
I just have the belts pulled all the way out and drying in the truck now. I'll get a pic tomorrow after they are dry.
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I tackled the exhaust tips today.
Before's
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1849_zps8d40d8c6.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1849_zps8d40d8c6.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1850_zps24d3574a.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1850_zps24d3574a.jpg.html)
After's
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1852_zpsd37286b3.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1852_zpsd37286b3.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1851_zps9b6a34ec.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1851_zps9b6a34ec.jpg.html)
I also taped off and painted the receiver hitch. I decided to go with a rattle can of "Bed Liner" since it has a little texture to it.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1854_zpsfddb0bd5.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1854_zpsfddb0bd5.jpg.html)
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Spent some more time on the PSD yesterday and today. I took care of a couple of pain in the butt things and some easy fixes.
I re-wired the light bar that is mounted between the tailgate and bumper. It actually works really well. It has Running Lights and Brake lights in red and then orange turn lights the "scroll" from the center out.
I decided to try and tighten up the steering box since I think the steering was still sloppy even after all the steering bits in the front being replaced. It wasn't anything too difficult. I just had to pull the air-intake. If anyone tackles this, be warned that there are two locking nuts on the adjuster, one was 17mm and the other 16mm (5/8" will do in a pinch). I snugged up the allen bolt about 1/8-1/4 of a turn. The steering wheel moved about 2 inches before and only moves about an inch and a 1/8 now, so nice improvement.
I wish I would have taken some pics, but I forgot to on this one. With the help of my wife I adjusted the passenger rear door. It was too far back and down. It was so far out that the door didn't shut right the gaps looked bad. I had to take the interior apart a bit to get at some of the nuts. It turned out great. It now looks and closes very nicely.
I hit all the interior with some Protectant after OPC @ 5:1 and a tooth brush. Looks considerably better. It was dark by the time i finished, so I will have to post up pics tomorrow.
I got back on the wheels today and finished them up. I used OPC @ 3:1 on them to give them a quick clean. Then used 2000 grit sandpaper on the "Face" of the wheels and then followed up with the PCXP/4" Orange CCS/M105. Then used OC 2.0 as my LSP. They still didn't come out super nice, I still see some marring and am not 100% if it's something to do with how the aluminum was finished before the clear. Either way, they look much, much better than before.
Here is what I started out with. All 4 wheels are in pretty similar shape.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1836_zpsc7073b37.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1836_zpsc7073b37.jpg.html)
Here is the area I was wet-sanding
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1855_zps4d55271a.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1855_zps4d55271a.jpg.html)
Done deal
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1860_zps0073b566.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1860_zps0073b566.jpg.html)
Here you can see some of the marring that still seems to be there
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1859_zpsdbc453b9.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1859_zpsdbc453b9.jpg.html)
I noticed the cab light was looking not so great, so I pulled off, tried to clean the inside out a bit and polished the outside with a orange LC pad and 105
Before
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130902_152129_193_zps6a082b50.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130902_152129_193_zps6a082b50.jpg.html)
After
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130902_152532_271_zps51029523.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130902_152532_271_zps51029523.jpg.html)
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Looks really nice. I love M105 on an orange pad for plastic. I sometimes follow up with Past-X on a white pad to finish it.
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Looks really nice. I love M105 on an orange pad for plastic. I sometimes follow up with Past-X on a white pad to finish it.
Thanks!
I just ended up putting some OC 2.0 on it today. I was going to polish it down further, but most of the dullness is on the inside. I may pull it off again and see if I can wash it out real good.
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Every time I visit this thread I am in awe of your balls and work.
:nw: :nw: :nw:
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Thanks for taking so much time posting up all the pics and information Ryan!
She's looking beautiful
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Thanks guys, the compliments are appreciated! :cheers:
Knowing you have an audience is motivating too!
On a side note, I took the truck in for an oil change yesterday. I wasn't too impressed with their work as they left quite a mess. There was oil dripped on the fan shroud, grill and bumper. Grease prints on the fender, door panel and kick panel too. I will be giving them a call today.
On the positive side, I did notice that the light bar in the back also has a set of Reverse LED's. That's cool.
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My S/O sub showed up via UPS today, so I decided to get it installed before the road trip this weekend.
I put it in the center behind the back seat, I installed everything pretty nicely except for the ground wire. I'll re-route it better next week. It actually sounds not too bad, I have to tweak it more as it has a pretty narrow frequency range.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20130905_185250_485_zpsde24d03b.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20130905_185250_485_zpsde24d03b.jpg.html)
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Thanks guys, the compliments are appreciated! :cheers:
Knowing you have an audience is motivating too!
On a side note, I took the truck in for an oil change yesterday. I wasn't too impressed with their work as they left quite a mess. There was oil dripped on the fan shroud, grill and bumper. Grease prints on the fender, door panel and kick panel too. I will be giving them a call today.
On the positive side, I did notice that the light bar in the back also has a set of Reverse LED's. That's cool.
I do my own oil, you have to be pretty damn lazy to get oil on the fan shroud and other places not in the oil fill area.
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Well Guys, Not much luck on the fuel pressure issue. Here is what I posted up in another forum. Tom, if you know of anything I should look at, please let me know.
I have put over 10k Miles since I installed the blue spring upgrade kit. Last week, the truck started losing fuel pressure. It used be a solid 65psi at idle and never drop below 58psi @ WOT. It dropped to 50psi at idle/cruising and then steadily down to 35psi over a 30minute drive (I was trying to get home). I figured the filters might have gotten plugged up after some bad fuel, since I had to get fuel at small gas station in the middle of Iowa recently. I swapped the fuel filters, no change... So I ordered a Fuel pump, just the pump and not the whole HFCM. The fuel pressure jumped back up to 55psi, so I thought I was onto something, but after a short drive (15mins) it dropped back down to 40psi. I pulled apart the FPR and checked for cut/damaged o-rings, but everything looked good. I decided to throw in a bb behind the spring to help troubleshoot. After a few cycles of the key, it was up to 60psi. Again, after a short drive and some WOT runs for 5 seconds at a time and it was back down to 40psi. I noticed at WOT it would drop to 20psi sometimes, but sometimes hold at 40psi. If it drops to 20psi and I cut the throttle, it jumps right to 40psi in an instant.
I'm not too sure where to look next. I figured I would drop the tank and see if the pick-up is plugged. Also not sure if there is something that controls voltage to the fuel pump. What voltage should I see at the pump? Any input would be really helpful. I am mechanically inclined, but since I am away from all my tools for a year, I'm not able to due much in-depth diagnosis.
Just as an FYI, I was hoping after all this that there was just something up with my electric Fuel Pressure guage. I installed a mechanical and it reads within 1psi. The fuel system is bone stock.
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Wow, that's a strange one. :dunno:
With everything you've tried so far, I'd be looking back near the tank to see if you have a supply problem. The key thing I noticed in your narrative was that if the fuel pressure drops, then you cut the throttle, the pressure comes back up.
Hope that helps.
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About the only part of the fuel delivery I know on a diesel is the green pump handle.
That aside, I had the same thought as Tom, when the PSI drops and you let off, it will pop back up.
This leads me to think something in the tank at the pickup point ??
2 options I would suggest are long bore scope or dropping the tank and flushing it out to see if something comes out.
If you are down in farm country ( Campaign area ) you might find a local mechanic that could do it for you, but then again the diesel mechanics in that area might be busy with keeping farm equipment running this time of year with harvest going on :dunno:
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thanks guys, I'm going to try and drop the tank next weekend. I'm back on the road tomorrow, so I'll do as much research as I can in the meantime.
One thing I was able to figure out is that it has a Titan long range tank.
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I've heard of the fittings in the tank sucking air because they are rated for pressure not suction. The solution that I know of for this is to install a sump in the tank.
Have you checked the oil lately? If not, I would because there may also be a leak in of the fuel rails that runs the length of both heads.
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Thanks for the info Dave, I will check my oil, I just had it changed and haven't checked the level yet. I looked at the Sumps, not sure if I want to go that route, but I should be able to test the connections with a simple vacuum test once I drop the tank.
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The 7.3's wouldn't even start if you were too low on oil.
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The 7.3's wouldn't even start if you were too low on oil.
I Think Dave is referring to fuel in the oil because of a leak. I really hope it's not the case, but I will have to check. I wouldn't be surprised if the pick-up is blocked causing the pump to suck air through the fuel line connections. I have read that some PSD's were crushing the tanks because they weren't venting and the pumps have that much pull.
I'm stuck in Chicago till Saturday, so I won't be doing anything till today. I must say I'm glad I brought the Edge instead of the truck, I don't think I would have been able to valet the truck downtown... :dope:
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Well Boys, it's pretty hard to find a problem that isn't there.... :dope:
After blowing out all the fuel lines, pulling apart the FPR again and taking out the 2nd Filter standpipe to make sure it was working as expected I gave up. I figured that the truck is going to the dealer in the morning. :die:
I was putting away my tools and took the hose off of my mechanical fuel Pressure gauge. As I was putting it back in it's box, I just happened to look into the hose and noticed I couldn't see any light through the hose. Seems that the rubber in the hose had collapsed, probably because it was a cheap ass gauge kit that saw some ethanol in it's past.
So I found an adapter and spun the gauge directly onto the FPR housing. Here is what I saw...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1876_zpsa7d0a5a7.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1876_zpsa7d0a5a7.jpg.html)
Goes to show how important having good testing equipment is. I have a new sending unit on order for my electric fuel gauge, hope to get it in by mid-week.
What a relief, I was fearing that the valve covers were going to be coming off. I'm going to have a nice stiff Crown and Pepsi now... :cheers:
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That's great! Love when things work out and that weight is lifted!
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Glad you got it figured out.
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Glad you got it figured out.
x2....so impressed with your skills man
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I should have done it to begin with, but I've ordered a remote mount hose for the fuel pressure gauge sending unit.
I also ordered the updated Dummy plugs and standpipes. I hope to eliminate my long cranking cold starts. When I get around to installing them, I'll also go ahead and pull apart the FICM to check and re-solder a bunch of joints known to fail. My cranking and running voltages are good, but I figure I might as well do it if it's going to be out anyway.
I figure if I spend enough time and money on this truck, the wife will approve a new truck late next year with warranty... :redneck:
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What is youe voltage? Mine got down to 40....had it fixed locally for 100 bucks
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
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Key on engine off is 48.7, cranking is 47.3ish and running is 48.2. so well within spec, but I figure if I have it out, I can re-solder to reduce a chance of a failure in the future.
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Thise numbers look good
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
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What oil and oil filters are you running? Remember these trucks needs to see 550psi at a minimum before the truck will even begin to think about popping off thanks to the HEUI.
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What oil and oil filters are you running? Remember these trucks needs to see 550psi at a minimum before the truck will even begin to think about popping off thanks to the HEUI.
I run Motocraft oil and filters. I am not a fan of the aftermarket after my buddy was burned by Mobil1 Sludging. I know Mobil1 is OEM for some vehicles, but you have to reduce your change intervals to 3000miles and that goes a bit against the idea of running a synthetic.
Since the truck fires up pretty quickly once warm or after only being shut off for a few minutes, I would put my money on (and obviously have :redneck:) a blown o-ring on the dummy plugs and/or standpipes. I don't have any stiction issues and hope it stays that way, but I haven't used any oil additive yet (like Rev-X).
It is also very possible that the issue is the HPOP or the STC fitting, but I figure this is the easiest place to start. If the intake has to come off, I will be saving up some coin to do the following while in there
- HPOP reman with new style STC fitting and a new IPR valve
- oil cooler since I don't have any clue if it was done when the EGR delete was done
- oil screen under oil cooler.
I'm still at a point where I don't know how long I will keep the truck, so i don't want to drop the money on head gaskets and studs, especially when I know i won't get the money back on a salvage title vehicle. At this point the Head Gaskets still seem to be holding strong...
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I had a pretty busy weekend, so busy that I don't have many pics... :dope:
My parts were all waiting for me when I got back from my Trip Thursday Night.
- Bearings for Dirt Bike suspension linkage
- New Sending unit for fuel pressure gauge
- Remote mount hose for fuel pressure sending unit
- updated Dummy plugs and standpipes
Since the dirt bike was apart, I pressed the new bearings into the linkage bits and put it back together. All I need to do is bleed the front brakes and a ride is planned for next weekend finally!
I then rolled the truck into the garage just far enough that the back tires got into the garage and got to work. I started with the passenger side as I figured it be the PITA side. I pulled off the valve cover and swapped out the dummy plug and standpipe. the one of the o-rings on the dummy plug was beginning to fail, but no blown o-rings. I was a bit disappointed that there wasn't a failed o-ring, but thought maybe on the other side. I buttoned it back up and then tackled the drivers side. different set of challenges with FICM brackets and Degas bottle, but nothing too bad. Swapped to the dummy plug and standpipe on that side to find no failures there either. :cry: I got it all back together and fired it up. Took a while to fire since there was no oil in the rails, but it did fire up. I took the time to clean up all the battery cable connections while I had them off as well as the power cable from the alternator.
Before putting the drivers side back together, I decided to pull apart the FICM, clean up all the connections and re-solder a bunch of the solder joints that are known to fail. pretty straight forward, you just have to take your time and be careful with the soldering gun.
Once that was done, I installed the remote mount hose, new sending unit and took the truck for a spin. It is running a solid 68psi and never drops below 60 @ WOT. I was very happy to see that.
I must have a terrible memory, because I cant remember if I noticed before, but the Turbo is a re-manufactured unit, the FICM has been replaced (it has one from 2009) and the glow plugs were done pretty recently since you can see how clean they look and the glow plug harnesses looked way cleaner than any of the other loom. Good to know really.
I think at this point I have either a weak HPOP or a HPO leak like an injector o-ring or the STC fitting. I think the best thing I can do right now is save my pennies to purchase the list of stuff mentioned before and injector to oil-rail o-rings. That way I go in once and get it all done. I was really hoping it was a leak with the Dummy plugs/Standpipes, but no luck.
Here is what the truck looks like when it's in the "Shop"
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131025_183755_711_zpsf4c2c687.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131025_183755_711_zpsf4c2c687.jpg.html)
The Dirt Bike ready for action.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131025_140845_096_zps525fb6ae.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131025_140845_096_zps525fb6ae.jpg.html)
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Some stuff showed up for me today. When doing the Dummy Plugs/Standpipes, I pulled one of the oil rails. I noticed that a couple of the ball tubes were loose. For some reason I didn't think to check the dang o-rings in the top of the injectors... :dope: Anyway, after doing some research I found a o-ring kit and tool that will let me replace the high-pressure o-rings behind the ball tubes without replacing the whole oil-rail. Since I figured I was going in to do this, I bought o-ring kits for all the injectors and a couple of ball tubes in case there were any worn on the other side.
I may get one side done this weekend, but I'm really hoping to ride, so we'll see how ambitious I am.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_1919_zpsa07ff806.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_1919_zpsa07ff806.jpg.html)
As a side note, the truck worked great on my Chicago trip this week. Still a long crank when cold (4-seconds or so), but ran nice and smooth once it fires.
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I have to see the presentation for the new truck idea to the wife. :slow:
If I spend enough time and money on this truck, why would your wife want to replace it when you are done ?
- You are going to have a damn near a new engine once you are done ( diesel wise ) why would she want to go in with spending that kind of money to get to the same place ?
:redneck:
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This project is to tackle yet something else that could be contributing or causing my long crank issue. I already have a very interested buyer for the truck and since he's my brother, I'm not going to sell it to him knowing it has an issue.
I won't be selling it till at least till next fall, so I don't want a long crank to turn into a no-start issue and get stuck somewhere on a road trip.
I'm going to need a much larger budget for the next project on this truck, so this will probably the last thing I do to it till well into the new year.
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This project is to tackle yet something else that could be contributing or causing my long crank issue. I already have a very interested buyer for the truck and since he's my brother, I'm not going to sell it to him knowing it has an issue.
I won't be selling it till at least till next fall, so I don't want a long crank to turn into a no-start issue and get stuck somewhere on a road trip.
I'm going to need a much larger budget for the next project on this truck, so this will probably the last thing I do to it till well into the new year.
Oh come on now. Don't be a quitter. I marvel at your posts and what you're willing to dive head first into.
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I'll have to run the numbers once we get settled next year, but I'm looking at getting into a Eco-Boost. I was darn impressed with my friends a while back. He has since done exhaust (manifolds back) and a tune. he says he is touching 450hp. If we go back to the Vancouver area, I am not sure the PSD will be a good fit (pun intended). :redneck:
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Well boys...no love with the o-rings. They were all in really good shape. I ended up swapping all of them out anyways.
We'll see what I come up with next... :nana:
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Since I already had the FICM out, I decided to pull the IPR and inspect it. It looked good and the screen wasn't blown out, which I was glad to see. I ordered a new one along with a ICP sensor. Stuff should be here by Friday and I'll put it all back together.
I figured it had been a while since I posted "proof"
here is me having fun swapping Injector o-rings
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131103_105926_890_zpsfc10e0cf.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131103_105926_890_zpsfc10e0cf.jpg.html)
IPR Valve out after two broken Swivel joints and some bloody knuckles.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131105_202643_639_zpsafe385ff.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131105_202643_639_zpsafe385ff.jpg.html)
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My father in law used to say...."I am rebuilding this car one part at a time"
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Kinda feels that way... I hope with the new IPR and ICP, I'll be where I want for a while. I would rather be spending the cash on a new polisher and a light bar.
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Kinda feels that way... I hope with the new IPR and ICP, I'll be where I want for a while. I would rather be spending the cash on a new polisher and a light bar.
And don't forget a beer for me next week! I should be healthy by then.
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Kinda feels that way... I hope with the new IPR and ICP, I'll be where I want for a while. I would rather be spending the cash on a new polisher and a light bar.
And don't forget a beer for me next week! I should be healthy by then.
I have already socked away several $1 dollar bills to buy you some beer... :redneck:
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Kinda feels that way... I hope with the new IPR and ICP, I'll be where I want for a while. I would rather be spending the cash on a new polisher and a light bar.
And don't forget a beer for me next week! I should be healthy by then.
I have already socked away several $1 dollar bills to buy you some beer... :redneck:
1$ bills???? where you gents headed....don't answer that. cue the music "man in the box"
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Kinda feels that way... I hope with the new IPR and ICP, I'll be where I want for a while. I would rather be spending the cash on a new polisher and a light bar.
And don't forget a beer for me next week! I should be healthy by then.
I have already socked away several $1 dollar bills to buy you some beer... :redneck:
Did you also have it poured into glasses so we don't have to wait for that? :redneck:
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The truck is all back together. I took it for a good boot and then shut it off and started it again. It took a good 4 seconds to fire. I then took it out for another run and tried a restart and it only took 1-2 seconds. I figure with all the air that could still be in the oil-rail that I might have to start it a few times and run it some more. So this is what was all done this round.
- All new Injector top o-rings
- All new high pressure o-rings under the ball-tubes in the oil rails
- New ICP sensor
- New IPR Valve
- Checked all Glow plugs by measuring the resistance
- Cleaned all battery connections and connection at alternator
- Cleaned all grounds that I could find
So we will see what happens over the next few days. I found a cheap updated STC fitting and o-ring/seal kit just in case I need to tackle that project. Before I even dive into that, I will see what my ScanGauge II tells me when it gets here if I still have the hard start when cold.
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I have still been having long crank issues in the morning. Ordered a Scangauge and found that I still must have a HPO leak somewhere. My ICP pressure still takes some time to build and the rest of the parameters (FICM voltage, FICM Sync, etc.) look good. Considering it's 0 degrees out today, I won't be tackling my STC fitting in my wee little garage. It will have to warm up a lot or I may have to see if I can rent a service bay somewhere.
I sure hope it is the STC fitting as I really don't want to drop the coin on a HPOP or find a cracked branch tube...
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Have you had the battery's tested? It doesn't take much to cause a long crank issue if you have a weak battery or battery's
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Have you had the battery's tested? It doesn't take much to cause a long crank issue if you have a weak battery or battery's
This has always been an issue with the truck, just haven't nailed it down yet. I bought new batteries (950cca) for it in the spring as the originals were toast.
It did start this morning when it was 0 degrees out without being plugged in and with 15w40 oil, so I am very confident that the batteries are strong.
Here is a cold-start from last week, you can see the ICP pressure taking time to build. Has to be a leak in my book or a weak HPOP.
http://youtu.be/hKofNFhdimQ (http://youtu.be/hKofNFhdimQ)
Any thoughts? I think I will know more when I get to the STC
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I had an ambitious plan to get the STC fitting swapped out today, but with the snow and the temp is meant to be dropping again today, I didn't want to chance it.
I ended up shoveling our walkway all the way out to the road (solid 100 ft) and then clean the vehicles off. Heather went off to Walmart for some last minute X-Mas shopping so I decided to cruise around the neighborhood to help some people shovel their driveways and push some stuck cars out of the snow.
I pooped myself out and then figured I could get my ScanGauge II "Blend mount" installed. Pretty straight forward, only took about 10 minutes.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131214_135818_527_zpsdcd454ef.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131214_135818_527_zpsdcd454ef.jpg.html)
I like it, I was messing around with the gauge a bit. It sure has a lot of features.
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I'm up at my dad's today and since it's meant to be crazy cold tomorrow (currently -25f, meant to hit -40 with the Windchill), we rolled the truck into my buddie's welding shop and plan to tackle the STC fitting in the morning.
I'll post up pics and hopefully positive results. At the very least, I will be happy to know it's the updated piece.
Brrrrr
http://www.weather.com/weather/today/CAXX1561:1 (http://www.weather.com/weather/today/CAXX1561:1)
Happy New Year everyone!
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I don't get out of bed when it drops below 0. Have fun with that.
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You could always wait until THUR, it is going to get all the way up to 0 :wow:
Not like you have much sympathy for me, but we are heading back into single digits this week with snow. Only good part of it is the snow is light and fluffy and the 48" shovel works great in it.
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48" shovel? I could use one of those.
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48" shovel? I could use one of those.
(http://www.jmenterprises.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/50548R_1000.jpg&maxx=500&maxy=0)
http://www.jmenterprises.com/48-THE-SNOWPLOW_p_16.html (http://www.jmenterprises.com/48-THE-SNOWPLOW_p_16.html)
Worth every penny. He had them from 48" down to 12" in a few increments.
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48" shovel? I could use one of those.
([url]http://www.jmenterprises.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/50548R_1000.jpg&maxx=500&maxy=0[/url])
[url]http://www.jmenterprises.com/48-THE-SNOWPLOW_p_16.html[/url] ([url]http://www.jmenterprises.com/48-THE-SNOWPLOW_p_16.html[/url])
Worth every penny. He had them from 48" down to 12" in a few increments.
Man, that just gets me all fluffy. I may just have to get one of those bad boys. Thanks Steve!
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Man, that just gets me all fluffy. I may just have to get one of those bad boys. Thanks Steve!
I got the 48" and after using it once I ordered 2 28" to replace the junk pushers that I had for the past 2 seasons from ACE.
I have done everything with it that they show in the youtube videos.
- pushing off deep snow, turning it over for a scraper and mashing straight down with it, like a slap chop, to break up ice
After using them a few times I got dad & my sister a pair of 36" and 28" for XMAS.
My sister loves hers, she got home on the 26th and they had 4.5" of snow since she left on the 24th. Lucky she had them in the car, pulled them out got the snow pushed off to one side and got the car in the garage. Went back and used the snow blower on the wind row she made clearing half the drive.
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48" shovel? I could use one of those.
([url]http://www.jmenterprises.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/50548R_1000.jpg&maxx=500&maxy=0[/url])
[url]http://www.jmenterprises.com/48-THE-SNOWPLOW_p_16.html[/url] ([url]http://www.jmenterprises.com/48-THE-SNOWPLOW_p_16.html[/url])
Worth every penny. He had them from 48" down to 12" in a few increments.
That looks sweet, I might have to pick up a 28" one.
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I am happy to say that the truck is up and running after the STC fitting swap. Thankfully it wasn't all for not as the truck did have the old-style STC fitting.
Overall it took me about 7 hours to get it all done. I didn't rush anything and only had a couple of things that slowed me up. I had a tough time getting the HPOP cover out and a couple of the bolts that hold it in place are very tight to access. But it wasn't too bad overall.
The original fitting did have some play in it, but not bad. It was good to see that the fitting wasn't beating up against the rear plate. The only downside is that based on it's condition, I doubt that it is the source of my long crank issue. Only time will tell.
Now, onto the Proof.
Old fitting
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131229_132911_199_zpsc6318bdc.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131229_132911_199_zpsc6318bdc.jpg.html)
Some bit's in the box
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131229_132814_022_zps31e5c0c5.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131229_132814_022_zps31e5c0c5.jpg.html)
HPOP back in place after new fitting installed
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131229_132857_465_zps6973e6ab.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131229_132857_465_zps6973e6ab.jpg.html)
Why I was very thankful to be able to use a big heated shop to work in. This was on the drive home
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/IMG_20131229_182223_180_zps386d1c08.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/IMG_20131229_182223_180_zps386d1c08.jpg.html)
I'll be taking a short trip (300 miles round trip) tomorrow, so we will see how it fires up once all the air is out of the system.
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Ryan,
I really do hope you find the gremlin under your hood - soon!
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Well, I am sorry to report that there hasn't been any improvement in my cold starts. I think the issue will have to stick around for a while. I will probably round up the adapter to air pressure test the HPO system sometime this summer. If the issue gets worse, then I should be able to pin-point easier. Not sure what I could have missed as I have touched pretty much all aspects of the HPO system, maybe a weak HPOP. :dunno:
Although there is still an issue, I am very glad that I know for sure that the truck has the updated piece.
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If anyone is interested, here was our journey. Obviously there was some additional driving around while at each location.
http://goo.gl/maps/zng2H (http://goo.gl/maps/zng2H)
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That is a ton of driving. And bad weather just makes it drag. I may have missed it a while back but what is the reasoning for all of the driving you've been doing?
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My Pops bought a couple of sleds on a trailer just outside of Chicago, so I hauled them up for him. My wife and I have family that we wanted to see this holiday season as we may not be able to next year. It all added up to a ton of driving.
Due to the rural locations, it didn't make a ton of sense to fly up.
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I'll have to take a couple of pics, but I installed a nice shiny new Bosch Alternator today. I noticed poor charging as well as the alternator was crazy hot all the time. According to my buddy a battery and alternator guy, the heat was caused by one of the diodes being blown. I picked up the Alt while in Winnipeg, so I was able to get it at cost, which is super nice.
I was always thinking about upgrading to a 190-200amp unit, but at the price I got the OEM replacement, I couldn't pass it up. The truck had a 110amp and I went to the 140amp version. Immediate improvement in my voltage reading. It hits 14.3 very quick where it would take a considerable amount of use ~20mins before.
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That reminds me I ha e a brand new Bosch 235 amp alternator I need to sell that was for my 02 Expedition.
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I was finally able to load up my FICM tunes from PHP today. I changed my ECM tunes back to stock for a week to give me a chance at properly comparing. I had planned on a ECM roll-back, but with my SCT tunes, he figured I would be wasting my dough. If I stud the truck, I will be getting some custom tunes from PHP, stand up group of people over there.
I loaded up the "Atlas 80" tune and went out for a little rip. Big toe-in improvement over stock. I noticed a WOT improvement over stock, but not the same SOTP feel as my 100hp Perf tune at WOT.
Tomorrow I'm going to load my 65 tow tune on top of the Atlas 80 and see how it goes. I think I'm going to settle on the Atlas 40 FICM tune with my 100hp Perf tune. I like the shifting of the Perf tune, but don't want to risk the Atlas 80 and the Perf tune without Studs.
For anyone wanting some more HP and better starting, but don't mind the stock shifting; go for a FICM tune, they do make a difference.
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I was finally able to load up my FICM tunes from PHP today. I changed my ECM tunes back to stock for a week to give me a chance at properly comparing. I had planned on a ECM roll-back, but with my SCT tunes, he figured I would be wasting my dough. If I stud the truck, I will be getting some custom tunes from PHP, stand up group of people over there.
I loaded up the "Atlas 80" tune and went out for a little rip. Big toe-in improvement over stock. I noticed a WOT improvement over stock, but not the same SOTP feel as my 100hp Perf tune at WOT.
Tomorrow I'm going to load my 65 tow tune on top of the Atlas 80 and see how it goes. I think I'm going to settle on the Atlas 40 FICM tune with my 100hp Perf tune. I like the shifting of the Perf tune, but don't want to risk the Atlas 80 and the Perf tune without Studs.
For anyone wanting some more HP and better starting, but don't mind the stock shifting; go for a FICM tune, they do make a difference.
While I don't know much about FICM tuning, I do know the stock voltage and min max's. The one thing that resonated with me came from Eric at Innovative. He said on his tow tunes, you can only do so much b/c you don't want to compromise the safety of the truck and the transmission. He said "i give you more power to pull but within the limits of the equipment"
Just my .02 on it.
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I was finally able to load up my FICM tunes from PHP today. I changed my ECM tunes back to stock for a week to give me a chance at properly comparing. I had planned on a ECM roll-back, but with my SCT tunes, he figured I would be wasting my dough. If I stud the truck, I will be getting some custom tunes from PHP, stand up group of people over there.
I loaded up the "Atlas 80" tune and went out for a little rip. Big toe-in improvement over stock. I noticed a WOT improvement over stock, but not the same SOTP feel as my 100hp Perf tune at WOT.
Tomorrow I'm going to load my 65 tow tune on top of the Atlas 80 and see how it goes. I think I'm going to settle on the Atlas 40 FICM tune with my 100hp Perf tune. I like the shifting of the Perf tune, but don't want to risk the Atlas 80 and the Perf tune without Studs.
For anyone wanting some more HP and better starting, but don't mind the stock shifting; go for a FICM tune, they do make a difference.
While I don't know much about FICM tuning, I do know the stock voltage and min max's. The one thing that resonated with me came from Eric at Innovative. He said on his tow tunes, you can only do so much b/c you don't want to compromise the safety of the truck and the transmission. He said "i give you more power to pull but within the limits of the equipment"
Just my .02 on it.
Absolutely Agreed, but most of my driving with the truck is empty or with a small load <3k. Not really pulling anything allows me to mess with a lot of combo's between the FICM and traditional ECM/TCM tuning. If I ever tow anything above 6k, I will just be using ECM/TCM tuning. I don't want to really risk blowing HG's since I don't have studs. I like the idea of getting the FICM tune combined with a ECM/TCM tune to get the most out of the three systems.
Really, I could easily have a half-ton for what I do, but this truck was cheaper than any decent half-ton I wanted. I'm sure my next truck (wife willing :redneck:) will be back to a F-150.
I head back to St. Louis on Monday, so I will post up results. I have been told to expect an MPG increase over the stock FICM calibration.
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Cool...so what voltage are you using on the FICM tunes?
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It's the stock 48V FICM. if it dies, I'll buy the BPD 6 Phase and run it at 53V. I'm not totally convinced that 58V is any good for the Injectors, but haven't done much research on the subject.
I like having the FICM programmer, works just like a regular programmer just messes with the FICM instead of the ECM/TCM.
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It's the stock 48V FICM. if it dies, I'll buy the BPD 6 Phase and run it at 53V. I'm not totally convinced that 58V is any good for the Injectors, but haven't done much research on the subject.
I like having the FICM programmer, works just like a regular programmer just messes with the FICM instead of the ECM/TCM.
Correct, stock voltage is 48....I have read crazy stories on running higher voltages and the injectors shitting the bed...
Speaking of injectors, I think I have one going out...waiting on some RevX, gonna run it on this next change and see if it helps.
This was my cold start before :
F250 Cold start (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNavYu3KAhs#)
After RevX
Ford PSD Cold Start AFTER Rev-X Treatment (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUiEPB9Lp8Q#)
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That's a big improvement for sure in that case. If you have stiction issues, start with the Rev-X. If you know any Diesel Techs, you can actually pull apart the injectors, clean up the spools and that usually solves the stiction issues.
My truck seemed to be really good for stiction before, but my start-ups were cleaner after going to 5W40 Synthetic. I'm going to do some research as I may leave 5W40 in it year 'round.
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That's a big improvement for sure in that case. If you have stiction issues, start with the Rev-X. If you know any Diesel Techs, you can actually pull apart the injectors, clean up the spools and that usually solves the stiction issues.
My truck seemed to be really good for stiction before, but my start-ups were cleaner after going to 5W40 Synthetic. I'm going to do some research as I may leave 5W40 in it year 'round.
You think sticktion also causes blue smoke at cold start up?
I am waiting on my RevX to arrive....are you using the Motocraft Synthetic?
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From my understanding the following can cause blue smoke at start up
- Stiction
- CCV system since it routes back to the turbo. There is a re-location kit to fix this
- Burning oil (Blow-by)
- Tunes. A tune can dump a bit of extra fuel that doesn't really burn so the smoke appears blue at start-up instead of black.
Often it is just if a truck sits that the oil from the CCV system can sit in the intake and on top of the heads. It then gets sucked in when you fire it up. I would not worry about it.
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Changed the FICM tune to the Atlas 40 and loaded my 100hp Perf tune back up. It seems to be one heck of a combo. I head to St. Louis tomorrow and am curios to see how the MPG's compare to last time. It will be similar temps.
The truck really seems to accelerate more like a gasser on normal take-offs (stop sign/stop light normal driving). Turbo lag is also greatly reduced somehow.
Definitely pretty happy so far, we will see how it is on a little road trip.
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I've been driving a diesel around all winter because of all the snow. My truck has just sat in our shop. I love getting back in to mine because of the turbo lag on the diesel. It makes driving around town very annoying. Not to mention the inside of the diesel is trashed with salt.
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Made it to St. Louis and I got to say that I am impressed. The best way I can describe it is that the truck seems to have "more torque". Off the line and passing on the freeway are much improved, not near as much throttle needed. Also @ WOT it sounds "Stronger" as well as idle sounds cleaner and quieter.
MPG's are pretty tough to compare against, but since the Interstates were upped to 70, I did a solid 75mph. That coupled with a constant 20mph (gusting to 35) dead-on head wind for 2/3rds the journey hurt. I averaged 14.3 this tank so far (includes warm up and cool-down idle time ~30mins combined).
I'm curious to see what the return trip yields on Friday.
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I had to hand bomb 9 pay stations and accessories into the back of the truck this morning. Total weight, just under 2700#. The truck didn't even know it was there. This has got to be the most weight I've thrown in the box of any of my own trucks.
Some of the truck was already unloaded in the pic, but each one of those remaining boxes weighed 275lbs.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140128_100537_zps426bf7ad.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140128_100537_zps426bf7ad.jpg.html)
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Had to run back to St. Louis and changed the 100hp perf tune to the 65hp Tow tune, just to see if any differences could be noticed. With the shifts being held a bit higher from the tow tune, I think any MPG improvement was negated. it did work really well for City driving, I'm still very impressed with the off-the line difference of the Atlas tunes. There was a WOT power drop that was noticeable, kinda surprised since it is only really a "35hp" difference.
It was an absolute storm for the last 60 miles on the way back, so the truck got really good MPG's @ 45mph :redneck:
Bilstein 5100's ordered for the front and I have some Archoil coming to try with the next oil change.
The drive back, gotta love open fields in the winter...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/Storm_zps95e626a7.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/Storm_zps95e626a7.jpg.html)
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Hey RR, I just did an oil change yesterday with 5W40 full Synthetic again and added Archoil 9100. I only drove it home from the dealer, so I doubt it had that much time to circulate, but seems to have improved the start up already by a bit.
-5C (21*F). Obviously ignore the long crank as I have still been trying to sort that out. But anyway at half the price, I am all for the Archoil vs. Rev-X.
http://youtu.be/eyyTd0JfaTQ (http://youtu.be/eyyTd0JfaTQ)
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Looks like I am going to need some additional hardware before I can install the shocks. My bolt on shock spacers for the front end lift are wore out. I am guessing that they weren't tightened up properly when installed and have now ob-longed the holes and messed up the threads on the bolts.
Too bad, I was looking forward to getting them in this weekend.
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Bummerville. How hard will those parts be to get?
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Bummerville. How hard will those parts be to get?
I was lucky and actually able to find the extensions on Ebay for $20. So they are ordered and should be here by the time I get back from LA next week.
I'm going to run to the dealer tomorrow to get some new lower mount bolts, so everything going on is all shiny and new. It's the proper way to do it anyway.
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I got back from LA last night and my Extensions had arrived and the Dealer called to let me know that the nuts and bolts came in. :cool:
So I decided to tackle the shocks this morning. I headed out the dealer and picked up the hardware, turns out I had to buy 4 bolts instead of two at $10 a pop :bt: Anyway, I figured I would use them instead of the bolts supplied with the extensions. I am very glad I pre-soaked all the rusty nuts an bolts last week, cause they were a bear to get out.
All said and done it took almost 4 hours and should have been an hour tops. The shocks that came off were shot and full of air, so I am glad it's done. Now everything is tight and the front end is nice and quite like it should be. Noticeable improvement in ride quality. :cheers:
Before (yes I had pulled the bottom bolt by this point)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/Mobile%20Uploads/20140222_142133_zpsok142qoi.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140222_142133_zpsok142qoi.jpg.html)
You can see a bit of wear on the bolt and the extension that was causing it to flop around
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/Mobile%20Uploads/20140222_143006_zpshglzbhic.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140222_143006_zpshglzbhic.jpg.html)
Side by Side
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/Mobile%20Uploads/20140222_142958_zps8jb6nmac.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140222_142958_zps8jb6nmac.jpg.html)
After
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/Mobile%20Uploads/20140222_141049_zpsaigc4rwm.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140222_141049_zpsaigc4rwm.jpg.html)
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Damn. Looks pretty simple. Rust is a killer. Makes everything take longer than it should. At least its done now.
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Looks a ton better. And I'm sure the ride and handling is dramatically improved too. Was that old shock clunking at all?
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Damn. Looks pretty simple. Rust is a killer. Makes everything take longer than it should. At least its done now.
Lack of the right tools (had to go buy a 13/16" wrench for some reason) and the fact that the extension block didn't line up right, which meant I had to drill them made things take a bit longer than expected.
Glad I got it done, It's already snowed a couple of inches and the temp has dropped from 43*F to low 20's.
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Looks a ton better. And I'm sure the ride and handling is dramatically improved too. Was that old shock clunking at all?
it does ride different, we took it out to the movies and I found a few pot holes. The ride is much smoother and quiet like it should be.
I think the there was a clunk in the shock on the passenger side, it moves an easy inch without any dampening at all. The bottom of the extension was also sloppy, so I am sure some of the noise was coming from that too.
I can't wait to get the rears done, hopefully in a couple of months.
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Just a quick note, I did another trip to St. Louis and back.
The new shocks up front made a big difference in ride quality. I can't wait to get the rears done too, but have to do some measuring to see if there is a lift in the rear or not, anything more than an inch will require different shocks.
The weather was a bit warmer today, I think it was in the high 40's. I am really starting to believe in the FICM tunes. For the whole trip which was roughly 85% highway my scangauge II reports 19.6Mpg's for the trip which is the highest I think I have ever seen! :dunno: There was a bit of a south wind helping things out today, but still impressive in my eyes.
Looking forward to it warming up so I can get back on it to tie up some loose ends I want to deal with.
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Thanks to Dave, I was able to figure out which rear shocks I needed (Length wise). 5100's are now on order, hopefully I can get them on next weekend.
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Glad I could help.
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The rear shocks showed up while I was in Miami this week. I figured today was a good day to get them on. Much, much easier than the front. All the hardware was in really nice shape and came apart easy after I hit everything with PB Blaster yesterday.
While I had the shocks off, I figured it would be a good opportunity to clean up the rear-end and give it a hit with some fresh paint. I just hit the rough stuff with a wire brush, hit it with brake cleaner, taped off all the hard-lines and then hit it with some paint. I didn't really use "paint", but used rattle can box spray liner. I prefer this to the rubberized undercoating as it is thinner and doesn't cause issues with fasteners, etc.
I think that I will be keeping an eye out for a rear diff cover, something pretty budget, but that would look nicer than factory. I am open to any suggestions.
On to the proof...err pics.
Before
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140413_114946_resized_zpsc3f53a58.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140413_114946_resized_zpsc3f53a58.jpg.html)
I think they needed to be changed
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140413_124715_resized_zps5b109112.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140413_124715_resized_zps5b109112.jpg.html)
After
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140413_132318_resized_zpsbc002a9d.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140413_132318_resized_zpsbc002a9d.jpg.html)
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That looks a ton better! Keep an eye on the rear diff cover. We've actually had 3 or 4 rust to the point where they leak. The cast aluminum ones increase the gear lube capacity and dissipate heat better. They also come with both fill and drain screws.
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That looks a ton better! Keep an eye on the rear diff cover. We've actually had 3 or 4 rust to the point where they leak. The cast aluminum ones increase the gear lube capacity and dissipate heat better. They also come with both fill and drain screws.
This one doesn't look anywhere close to getting through, but I do want to increase capacity and have the drain plug in it (hopefully magnetic).
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I figured it was finally time to swap out a hack installed CAC boot from the previous owner. I ordered a new proper one from Ford a couple of weeks ago and once I found out the price $75, I knew why they hacked in something. :wow:
It was a pretty simple deal, undo the boot clamps and pull the CAC tube and boots and swap in the new ones. As the tube was a bit on the banged up side, I decided to sand it down and paint it with high-heat engine paint.
Old one on the bottom and new one on the top.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140518_200647_zpsddlfgh2s.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140518_200647_zpsddlfgh2s.jpg.html)
The tube all painted up
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140518_200653_zpsmqvaf24x.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140518_200653_zpsmqvaf24x.jpg.html)
I will posted up installed pics once I get the rest of the engine bay cleaned up.
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So the Long morning cranks to fire up were starting to get to me. It does take 5 seconds which is within "Spec", but I know that it could be better after having a few friends fire up their 6.0's in a second or two :moody:
My ICP fitting arrived today along with an OTC tool that plugs into the IPR valve and closes it by sending 12v to it.
So after work, I headed out to the garage and got to it. I pulled the intake and FICM. Got my way to the IPR valve and plugged in the tool. I then pulled the ICP sensor and threaded in my adapter. I simply threaded an air chuck fitting and then put air straight to it. after a bit, I could hear the air purging down to the crankcase and used the tool to close the IPR Valve. it took some time, probably 3-4 minutes of cycling the IPR valve to purge out the oil to get to a point where I could here something worth following. with the IPR closed I could hear more air coming out of the passenger side valve cover through the CCV. I shut everything down and got to work pulling both valve covers off. Once off, I again ran the air test and immediately saw something. The "Plug" on the Drivers side oil rail where the ICP would go on the passenger side. I could hear and feel air coming from it. I pulled it out and found the O-ring to be damaged.
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140611_202258_zpsugsemtdn.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140611_202258_zpsugsemtdn.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140611_201912_zps4lh8ihxr.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140611_201912_zps4lh8ihxr.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140611_202105_zpssxsarvip.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140611_202105_zpssxsarvip.jpg.html)
I happen to have a brand new ICP sensor, so I stole the O-Ring off of it and put it on the plug, re-installed and then did the air test again.
No more noticeable leak! :clap:
I ordered new Valve Cover Gaskets that were meant to get here today, so hopefully they will get in tomorrow and I can button it all back up and test it out!
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It's all back together and so far, so good. The true test will be tomorrow morning.
I got it fired up and took it for a good drive to get all the air out. Once back, I shut it off, let it sit for a few minutes and fired it back up. It fired in less than a second! So it's already better than before.
If that O-ring was the cause of the grief, I sure am going to be peeved at myself for not catching it earlier!
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That would be awesome if that O-Ring was the cause of all of your problems. I have my fingers crossed for you!
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This is all well above my pay grade but I'm pulling for ya!
Tapatalkin...
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This is above my pay grade as well, but now I am curious if it was it.
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Boys, I am one freakn' happy guy today! Here is this morning's start.
http://youtu.be/2rF50OUyBpA (http://youtu.be/2rF50OUyBpA)
Just so you can compare to what it was before (this was in the winter, but it still took as long last week when it was in the high 80's)
http://youtu.be/eyyTd0JfaTQ (http://youtu.be/eyyTd0JfaTQ)
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Woohoo!
Tapatalkin...
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Congrats, I think you nailed it down.
Compared to the top video, the bottom video seems like you are hand cranking a model T.
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Congrats, I think you nailed it down.
Compared to the top video, the bottom video seems like you are hand cranking a model T.
Very true, but the big 'ol 6.0 cranks slower at 20F vs 80F :redneck:
I was surprised that even in the summer with it cranking over faster it still took 5 seconds to fire.
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Couple more things accomplished today. I am still slow moving with this lower back issue but I was able to get the spare tire down (without the "key") and get the reverse sensors working. I found that you can pound a 9/16" socket on the end of the spare tire lock and use it to lower the tire. Once the tire was out of the way, I was able to move the guide tube and knock the lock off the end of the winch assembly. Now you can raise and lower the spare with just the jack handle extension.
A lot of the connections at the sensors were corroded and someone already messed with them, I cleaned them up best I could, re-soldered a bunch of stuff and made connectors out of silicon. We'll see how long it lasts. I figure I'll need to hit up a wreckers and pull a whole wiring harness out of a truck and get a couple good sensors eventually.
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I took the truck into the dealer yesterday to get some service done as I hate dealing with fluids. I had the following done.
- Front and rear Diff fluid
- Transmission flush and fluid
- Transfercase fluid
- Power steering flush and fluid
So now at least I know that all fluids have been flushed since I have owned the truck (with the exception of the coolant because I know that was done right before I got the truck). But it was over $700! Wifey was not too pleased... :whisp:
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Finally got the ESOF fixed today! I was really worried I would have to pull apart the hubs and re-seal everything. It turned out it was just the solenoid that runs vacuum to the hubs, it was just "Venting to air" when engaged. I was on happy camper after vacuum testing the whole system no leaks!
Last push on Saturday to go over the whole truck one last time (visual inspection, etc) and get the parking brake system working. New Shoes and cables arrived today.
I'm pretty stoked that I have no other known mechanical issues to tackle :cheers:
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Now are you going to keep it ?
You went through the engine and drive line / suspension with a fine tooth comb and with all new fluids it is good to go for some time.
Even with the money you put put into it ( and wet sanding the tailgate :slow: ) I think it is safe to say you have a better than new truck for a very reasonable amount.
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Now are you going to keep it ?
You went through the engine and drive line / suspension with a fine tooth comb and with all new fluids it is good to go for some time.
Even with the money you put put into it ( and wet sanding the tailgate :slow: ) I think it is safe to say you have a better than new truck for a very reasonable amount.
Steve,
Truth be told, he did all of that work so it would be ready to donate to me. Remember, it is Oxford White. :funny:
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Now are you going to keep it ?
You went through the engine and drive line / suspension with a fine tooth comb and with all new fluids it is good to go for some time.
Even with the money you put put into it ( and wet sanding the tailgate :slow: ) I think it is safe to say you have a better than new truck for a very reasonable amount.
Steve,
Truth be told, he did all of that work so it would be ready to donate to me. Remember, it is Oxford White. :funny:
The plan right now is to either sell it to my brother (I wanted to make sure it was decent), or hang onto it until I can afford a 2015 F-150. If it turns out to be too much hassle to have around Vancouver, I may just sell it and look at something fun until I can get the F-150.
Unless the Head gaskets go (not too likely with the EGR delete, tune, etc.), I think it will now be good for quite some time. There is always a thing here and there that can fail, but that's just the life of a used vehicle.
I still have some cosmetic stuff to get fixed up, but they are larger projects that I just won't have time for in the near future.
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I guess things just can't be that easy. Went to get the parking brake cables and shoes replace on Saturday and ran into a show stopper. The dust plate was rotted right through so there is no way to hold the parking brake shoes properly in place.
Here is what I found...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140712_132157_zps4qb1bds5.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140712_132157_zps4qb1bds5.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140712_145024_zpstcamr7nh.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140712_145024_zpstcamr7nh.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140712_160158_zpsjurwi4xr.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140712_160158_zpsjurwi4xr.jpg.html)
At least I have an idea on what was eating into my fuel economy on my trip to St. Louis a few weeks back.
So this has now turned into a pretty pricey fix. I need to pull the axle and hub off to be able to change out the dust plates on both sides. Since I am not going to have time to tackle this before I hit the road, I pulled all the Parking brake guts out and put it back together.
So I have a few more parts on order (going to take advantage of the cheap US shipping).
- new Dust shields/plates
- Complete hard parts kit
- Rear hub seals
- Hub removal tool
If I was 100% sure that I was going to hang onto this truck for a few years, I would just let it be. Since it might go to my brother and therefore need an inspection, they have to work. Also, I will feel better knowing that they are good, you never know when you might need them...
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Yup, looks exactly like all of our Super Duties. Now you know why we just tear them out. We never use them anyway.
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Considering what my F-150 looked like when I did the parking brakes on it, I was surprised to see how rotted out the dust plate was. Even after years of salt, they were still just fine on my F150.
Checked out a few write-ups an vids on the subject, looks like it is going to be a royal PITA to get this all sorted out. I may try to get it done at my buddies shop while in Winnipeg.
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Damn it never ends for you! :beat:
Keep up the good work! :om:
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The old girl has had some more stuff done, so I figured I would update the thread.
I was able to get the parking brakes all back together and sorted out while I was at my buddies in Winnipeg. It was a royal pain since my dust plates were packaged wrong and I had two passenger side plates!!! :moody: Luckily I had a connection that was able to get me a proper set over the September long-weekend :clap: since the truck was all pulled apart by the time I found out the parts were wrong.
The truck made the rest of the haul to BC without a single blip and I put a TON of mile on it in August. I figured somewhere around 8,000 miles. Once I got back, I went to wash and noticed the passenger side was covered in Tar specs. I just gave it a usual first wash and then hit it with a whole can of Tarminator. I had to follow up with clay, so the whole truck got clayed. Since it has a pretty fresh hit of Opti-coat 2.0, I only followed up wit a spray wax. It did come out pretty nice, but I think in the spring I will give it a wee correction and re-coat.
After all the miles and with a few planned winter trips coming up, I figured it is time for new tires. The Edge got a brand new set of OEM's and the truck got brand new TOYO Open Country Extreme AT 2's. They are 305/60 R18's vs. the 325/65 R18 Hankook's that were on it, but I didn't have any taller options unless I went narrower. They are considerably smaller in height, I would say almost 2 inches. I do miss the look, but I figure I may get better MPG's. I do love the width and the look of the tread. Way quieter and noticeably improved traction in the wet.
Truck also got a fresh set of Fuel Filters and another full Syn Oil change ($$$).
Tar spots all over passenger side
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140819_171914_zps2bac7682.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140819_171914_zps2bac7682.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140819_171843_zps8eb622ab.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140819_171843_zps8eb622ab.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140819_171931_zps2b7ad565.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140819_171931_zps2b7ad565.jpg.html)
Doing the parking brakes...
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140803_163025_zps47be694e.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140803_163025_zps47be694e.jpg.html)
(http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss281/2000BlownF150/20140803_163033_zps092b3291.jpg) (http://s584.photobucket.com/user/2000BlownF150/media/20140803_163033_zps092b3291.jpg.html)
No Pics of the tires yet, I'll get them up.
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I love my Toyos. The overall look of them can't be beat in my opinion and they've been good to me. Mine are heavy and dropped my mileage a bit but so be it. I put mine on in February and they look brand new yet.
Tapatalkin...
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My Buddy (the Lincoln in one of the pics above) switched to the same tires and said he noticed a drop in MPG's too. But he did go from a stock size mild AT Michelin to them.
In my case, I looked around and there appears to be a big drop in weight for me, which is an added bonus. It's actually noticeable with Acceleration and Braking. :clap:
Toyo's Open Country Extreme AT 2's 325/60 R18 = 33.3" Height = 66lbs
Hankook Dynapro MT's 325/60 R18 = 34.8" height = 89.7 lbs
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Mine are 295/55R20, they measure out 32.8" and weigh in at 60lbs. However, I was coming off of stock wheels and tires to the new 20s and 33s. I don't regret it one bit.
Tapatalkin...
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I've been having some odd issues with the front brakes. It seems like the front LH (drivers) brake has been dragging once the brakes heat up a bit from stop and go traffic. Also, when the truck went into the dealer for an oil change, they measured the brake pads and the rears were worn more than the fronts :dunno:
Also, no noticeable pull to the left or right under braking. Costing when the brakes heat up, you can feel a slight pull to the left. I pulled out my thermo gun as soon as I got home today and noticed that the front left was hotter than the front right or either rear.
I pulled the front calipers hoping to find a seized pin or two (even thought they are only 1.5 years old), but nothing. All seemed good. I cleaned and re-greased the pins (with brake pin grease) cycled the caliper pistons a few times and then put it all back together.
The bonus of being here is there a plenty of steeps to test brakes. I ran it up and down the mountain behind the house 3-4 times and the brakes did feel much better. I hit them with the thermo gun again and both fronts matched bang on and were warmer than the rears, which is what I would hope for.
So I'll run it some more and see what happens. If anyone has any input like known issues with master cylinders or distribution boxes, chime in.
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I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir, but remember, the slider pins aren't the only thing that can hang up. You could also have a piston hanging up in the caliper bore or a pad hanging up on the stainless steel slider plates. We generally use a needle scaler on the caliper brackets now before we install new SS hardware. Even then, sometimes we have to pull out the old flat file to get everything to move freely.
Hope that helps.
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Thanks for the input TS. I did confirm that the pistons moved as freely as expected as well as the SS hardware (all new when I did the brakes) and pads themselves moved in the caliper bracket.
The only thing I can figure is something is up with the piston-to-caliper tolerance just when things get hot. Truck seemed good again today and I rode the brakes pretty hard down a 8% grade for a 1/4 mile on one of the North Shore Mountains at lunch. Who knows, maybe cycling and moving everything freed it up....for now.
The pins even looked like new and no real rust built up where the pads sit, which I wasn't expecting after the IL salt last year.
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Hmmm, I hate problems like this. Just out of curiosity, what did you use to lubricate the Slider Pins?
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Hmmm, I hate problems like this. Just out of curiosity, what did you use to lubricate the Slider Pins?
Did you check the Fetxer Valve? It's near the Kanutsen bolt.
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Hmmm, I hate problems like this. Just out of curiosity, what did you use to lubricate the Slider Pins?
I used Permatex "Brake Caliper Lube". I didn't use anti-seize or something like that.
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Hmmm, I hate problems like this. Just out of curiosity, what did you use to lubricate the Slider Pins?
I used Permatex "Brake Caliper Lube". I didn't use anti-seize or something like that.
I figured you'd use the correct stuff! I have a friend who swears that you absolutely must use Never Seize - and he couldn't be more wrong. Of course he only drives his truck about 3,000 miles per year, so his incorrectly lubricated sliders never set up. :moody:
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DId I miss it or did you say you are running Motocraft rotors?
I was not able to buy for the front when I replaced...already warped.
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I'm pretty sure they are original. I never had to swap them when I did the brakes. They measured well within spec and straight as can be.
I don't think the previous owner really towed anything and these brakes seem to last forever. After 40k miles the front are at 95% and the rears at 85% (therefore the earlier dilemma of trying to figure out what's up).
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I'm pretty sure they are original. I never had to swap them when I did the brakes. They measured well within spec and straight as can be.
I don't think the previous owner really towed anything and these brakes seem to last forever. After 40k miles the front are at 95% and the rears at 85% (therefore the earlier dilemma of trying to figure out what's up).
'yeah odd that is the case on the percents of front vs back. I kept my fronts, I may put them back on.
We did "project reduce weight" on our 5er over the past 2 weekends. We removed at most, 1000lbs of stuff we don't need or don't use....
I am a little worn out on taking 3 grills, 3 stoves, 2 10X10 pop up shades, 2 extra 30 ft 30 amp power cables, 2 30 ft 50 amp cables, 6 water hoses, 4 propane lanterns, 10 tarps, yes I said 10 tarps and lots more. Looking forward to pulling the 5er this Thursday after taking all dumb weight out.
Net is, scratching head as to why rears are more worn than fronts.
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That drop in weight will make a difference in towing for sure!
I've been searching and can't really find anyone that has the same issue with the rears doing more work. I may pull out the bleed kit and do a good bleed again in case there is air somewhere in the front system.
It does seem to brake well and didn't have any issues over the weekend and I heated up the brakes a few times on the hills throughout. :dunno:
It sucks not knowing the cause, but I'm going to have to let it ride for now...
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Brakes still good!
Since I attempted to "repair" the heating element of the driver's seat twice and it failed, I figured I would just order the whole element and replace it.
Since we had yesterday off and the element came in, I tackled it yesterday. Other than those dang "bull rings" that hold the leather to the cushion, it was straight forward.
No pics, I didn't even think about them till I had the seat back in the truck. But my toasty warm a** knows it now works! :nana:
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If anyone needs pictures of that I have them from my truck and installing aftermarket heaters in the Mrs' G6 and the back seat of my truck ( the two outside positions, center rear has nothing ).
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If anyone needs pictures of that I have them from my truck and installing aftermarket heaters in the Mrs' G6 and the back seat of my truck ( the two outside positions, center rear has nothing ).
I was looking at a 2011 F150 Limited and was surprised to see the rear seats heated, pretty cool.
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Well as suspected, the brakes locked up again. Also had to happen as I was in the middle of fricken moving :moody:
So since I have a garage now, I made use of it. I went and bought 4 new calipers, rear rotors and read pads. Front rotors and pads are still in great shape, surprising as they took a beating. I found one of the two pistons seized on the two front calipers and one sized piston on the right rear. The 4th caliper was good, but since I was in there, I just wanted to swap them all. Bleed them out and got back to moving. I had it all done in less than 2 hrs, so I was happy with that since I had to find tools, etc.
Not too sure why the calipers would give me such grief after being less than two years old. :dunno: I just wasn't happy about dropping another G on brakes. All well, let's just hope these brake issues stop now...get it...stop... :funny:
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I think a lot of it has to do with who built - or remanufactured - the parts and the process they used. All automotive manufacturers lean on their suppliers pretty hard for year over year "productivity improvements." In plain English, that translates into "price reductions." This isn't always a bad thing in that it helps keep the price of the vehicles down. On the other hand, sometimes it shows up as poor quality down the road. And as long as it rears it's ugly head once the vehicle is out of the factory warranty, the manufacturers don't worry too much.
Getting back to brake calipers, I've seen some truly awful remanufactured units. One lasted such a short period of time - one week - that I simply had to pull it apart before returning it. It appeared that all they did was media blast the outside surfaces, add a new bleeder valve and then slap it into a box. The caliper bore and piston were pretty much solid rust. Needless to say I bought a new one.
As for the OEM units, we have the same problem with the plowing fleet of SD's. We always put brand new Ford OEM calipers on, but they seem to last a couple of years and crap out. Yup, that's a productivity improvement ! But where you live, I would think they should last a bit longer.
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2 hours? Damn...that is impressive.
Or is 2 hours code for 6 hours and a case of beer?
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I think a lot of it has to do with who built - or remanufactured - the parts and the process they used. All automotive manufacturers lean on their suppliers pretty hard for year over year "productivity improvements." In plain English, that translates into "price reductions." This isn't always a bad thing in that it helps keep the price of the vehicles down. On the other hand, sometimes it shows up as poor quality down the road. And as long as it rears it's ugly head once the vehicle is out of the factory warranty, the manufacturers don't worry too much.
Getting back to brake calipers, I've seen some truly awful remanufactured units. One lasted such a short period of time - one week - that I simply had to pull it apart before returning it. It appeared that all they did was media blast the outside surfaces, add a new bleeder valve and then slap it into a box. The caliper bore and piston were pretty much solid rust. Needless to say I bought a new one.
As for the OEM units, we have the same problem with the plowing fleet of SD's. We always put brand new Ford OEM calipers on, but they seem to last a couple of years and crap out. Yup, that's a productivity improvement ! But where you live, I would think they should last a bit longer.
I agree 100%. It is pretty sad though, considering how important brakes are. I ended up going with a different re-manufacturer this time around (AC Delco...Yes GM), to see if they are any better. We will see!
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2 hours? Damn...that is impressive.
Or is 2 hours code for 6 hours and a case of beer?
Thanks Jason, I have extensive brake swapping and bleeding experience :bart:
No beer this time around, it was at the old place and made for a less pleasant experience :cheers:
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I never hesitate to buy ACDelco and always feel pretty comfortable using them.
Tapatalkin...
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So, as eluded to in the shout box, the PSD has been stolen.
We arrived in Calgary Saturday Night around 5pm. Parked the truck on the street around 9pm. On Sunday morning, the truck was still there. We went out to run some errands in another car (the in-law's Edge) and came back around 2:30. Truck was still there. The Wife, Sister and Mother in-law came home around 3:00 and asked if moved the truck. That's when we found out it was gone. The neighbor said he pulled in @ 2:45 and the truck was gone by then. So a pretty tight window :moody:
It is bad enough to have get a vehicle stolen, but around Christmas and far away from home adds some challenges. The family is trying to help by pulling some strings at the local dealer and wholesale a used truck to get us home and have some wheels until insurance is sorted out.
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what I freaking nightmare. I am so upset for you man, you are taking this way better than I would be for sure.
Having been broken into 2 times doesn't come close to how I would feel if she was stolen. Really sorry about this .
I hate bad people....
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I hate bad people....
A truer, more simpler statement there wasn't.
Man, I'm sorry to hear this.
Any chance of recovery?
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
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sorry to hear about this.
Your truck was not a PATS version ?
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Thanks for the support guys. It is a just plain crappy situation. Not much you can do but suck it up and find a solution...and beer helps. There sure are some rotten people out there.
There is a chance of recovery, but I doubt it will be found this week if it wasn't found in 24 hours. The cops I spoke with say it is the most common vehicle stolen and I am assuming that is because most Super Duty's of this era are fleet keyed and don't have PATS (chip key, passive immobilizer). Usually the recovery time frame is about three weeks.
Tons of paperwork to fill out and I have a line on a truck that will do till this is all settled out. I hope to have more figured out by tomorrow. The rental car places wanted close to 2g's to rent something that can pull a small UHaul and I don't want to drive a 2x4 uhaul through the mountains.
At least the wife and I can stay in the area right till New Years if we need some more time.
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Wow, the (bad) things some (bad) folks will do around Christmas never ceases to amaze me. The good thing is that none of you were around when it was stolen. I know most of us would have probably tried to stop the thieves, but many times they're better armed and a truck can be replaced - people cannot. I just hope the rest of your holiday is better than this.
If there's anything I can do, you have my number.
Tom
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Any update this AM ?
I don't know if the police have any idea who to look for this.
In the metro area here, they have a real good idea of where to look. That is why most get boxed up and shipped to Eastern Europe.
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Any update this AM ?
I don't know if the police have any idea who to look for this.
In the metro area here, they have a real good idea of where to look. That is why most get boxed up and shipped to Eastern Europe.
I don't think they really know. It seems to be more on a basis of being called in type of thing. The issue is that we are in such an area that once you get even 40 miles out of town, you are in the middle of nowhere. From what I have heard the Super Duty is a common target for joy riders or those who just want to get somewhere. The Police said it might have been a target due to the brand new tires as they are easy cash.
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I gotta say that I have some incredibly generous family.
The plan today was to pop up to the dealer where my cousin works and see what is on the lot. It was a crazy amount to rent and a flight home would have left all our stuff here.
My Uncle drove down, picked me up (about an hour or so drive one way) and brought me to the dealer. Sitting there was a 2010 F150 XLT XTR Registered, insured and PAID FOR! My Uncle figured he was going to pull the trigger on it eventually anyway and bought it early so I could use it until things are sorted out. Obviously I was floored.
As I will be driving it a fair ways, he said I can just buy it off of him if I want it once we find out what is going to happen in the end. Otherwise, I'll fly him out and he will drive it back.
I'll try to post a pic in the morning.
In the meantime, since I haven't heard anything on the PSD, I don't expect that they will come across it while I am still in the area. Maybe it will pop up eventually, at least then I can find out what happened to it. Closure would be nice.
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Man .. that sucks. At least you have a way back home now. Hope it works out as best it can. Merry Christmas anyway!
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That's awesome of your uncle. If you return it to him, can we expect a fully detail before it is picked up?
Hopefully your truck is recovered and not in pieces.
Tapatalkin...
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Your uncle helping out is great. Awesome that your family is pulling together for you guys.
Hopefully the insurance company does not give you too much of a run around with it and just settle the claim, without waiting out the results.
Have a great Christmas.
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That's awesome of your uncle. If you return it to him, can we expect a fully detail before it is picked up?
Hopefully your truck is recovered and not in pieces.
Tapatalkin...
I was talking with the wife and since we both get the 2nd off, we were thinking about getting the interior done then and then picking a weekend to get the exterior done.
I want to get to it as soon as possible so it will be good to go anytime we work out getting it back to him.
I really hope it is found before we have to take off back to BC.
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I was talking with the wife and since we both get the 2nd off, we were thinking about getting the interior done then and then picking a weekend to get the exterior done. ...<snip>..
Pictures or it never happened.
Make sure to clean off the camera before you start, so you do not run out of storage. :redneck:
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Wow, that's one super uncle you have there! Somebody really had the Christmas spirit - which is good for you since somebody else obviously didn't. I hope the rest of your holiday is merry and safe!
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Truck was just found. Now the real fun begins!
I don't know if I will be able to look at it for a couple of days since it is Christmas tomorrow. The cops figured it was stolen to steal other things since there was a hitch in it.
God only knows what they did to that poor truck. :dunno:
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Oh boy, this is going to get interesting! I'm sure if the truck could talk, it would have more than a few tales for you. I hope it's pretty much OK and you can take it home with you.
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Woohoo! If nothing else, you get closure. As much as it sucks that it happened, it just makes it that much worse not knowing where it ended up and what happened to it.
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The good news, they found it.
The bad news, they found it. It could be a mess now.
- I don't know how CAN insurance companies are to deal with on this.
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The good news, they found it.
The bad news, they found it. It could be a mess now.
- I don't know how CAN insurance companies are to deal with on this.
Yup, I would be curious to see it unless it was stripped.
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Still waiting for the truck to be released. Can't expect them to be very quick with the holidays and such.
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Glad the police got it back for you! :cheers:
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I was finally able to retrieve the truck today. They pretty much gutted it, lost about a G in stuff. It fired up, ran a little rough though. I went to put it in gear and the shifter was busted, so it wouldn't go into gear. I had it towed to the "fix it" place where the insurance agency said it had to go. They aren't open till tomorrow, so hopefully they can get to it quickly.
Other than the drivers door lock and the key not going into the ignition, no visible damage that I saw. I'm curious on what is up with the shifter, probably why they ditched it when they did. Thankfully they didn't steal any gauges and the tires were still in great shape. The interior was really, really dirty, some stains on the carpet.
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Sounds like it could have been worse. Hopefully you get it all straightened out quickly enough.
Tapatalkin...
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I hate bad people
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Glad to hear you finally got her back - and that she's not a total wreck. Could the shifter issue be related to them breaking the ignition lock to steal it?
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I don't know how I would react here, I felt pretty violated with my 2 break ins...I almost wouldn't want my truck back if it was stolen given the condition I had it and the one you got it back in.
I wish you the best of luck but man, you are taking this way better than I ever would have.
I can go from cool and calm to freak out in under .004 seconds.
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I went to the shop to have a look at the truck. They had it pretty well cleaned up and no more damage was apparent. The tow truck driver that originally picked it up and brought it to the city impound disconnected the drive shaft and also the shifter so no one would accidentally try to drive it. The bad part is, he should have put it all back together once it got to the yard. I would have been able to drive it out.
So at this point, it just appears to be an ignition tumbler and driver's door tumbler to get it drivable. I was just looking through some pics that I took and it made me wonder if they stole the spare tire as the tire irons were pulled out. So I will have to confirm that.
I am hoping to get it back tomorrow and get on the road first thing Wednesday.
I still don't know why they stole the Owner's Manual :dunno:
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To me at least, it sounds more and more like you may have gotten off pretty well on this one - if that's actually possible. I really do hope it all works out for you!
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Yeah it doesn't seem so bad. Time will tell as you drive it some whether it's running right and if there are any signs of excessive abuse. You may find little things start to bother you more than they normally would because you're always going to have that violated feel in the back of your mind and wonder if that is the reason for any issue. And probably wonder what issues may creep up next that may stem from this.
I know when my truck was recently broken in to it really bothered me to know that someone was going through my stuff. Not sure how I'd feel if I knew someone was actually out driving my truck.
Maybe they just chucked the owners manual out the window when going through the glove box looking for other stuff. If I'm stealing a vehicle, I'm probably not taking the time to put everything back.
Tapatalkin...
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did you get a chance to see if they stole the spare yet ?
Also, did the shop get the door and ign fixed ?
Think it might be time to put a fuel pump disconnect switch hidden in the truck, for when you are street parking.
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did you get a chance to see if they stole the spare yet ?
Also, did the shop get the door and ign fixed ?
Think it might be time to put a fuel pump disconnect switch hidden in the truck, for when you are street parking.
I have this on my F250 but it is through the alarm system.
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did you get a chance to see if they stole the spare yet ?
Also, did the shop get the door and ign fixed ?
Think it might be time to put a fuel pump disconnect switch hidden in the truck, for when you are street parking.
The fuel pump switch is exactly what I thought about 10 minutes after it was gone. I had even checked out where to get at the switch for "disabling" the truck a month ago. All well, not much I can do now. other than learn.
They didn't steal the spare, thank goodness. I picked it up today, still a stain on the carpet, but I'll deal with that later. Trick drives and shifts just great as it always has. I gave the tranny fluid a sniff and it doesn't smell burnt, so I'm happy. I drove it up to my Uncles, which is about an hour and a half away from the shop. Drove and worked exactly as expected and no new issues found.
My uncle convinced me to leave it behind for him and take the 2010 back to Van. I think he is cooking up a plan to get himself a one-ton Diesel.... :nija:
It's going to be an interesting drive tomorrow, I'll catch up once on the other side!
Happy New Year All!
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Sometimes other priorities get in the way of completing small tasks.
Live and learn is right, you can look into it later once you get back home, don't forget to troll eBay for a new owners manual set for it :slow:
Glad to hear it is not too bad of results. In the spring you can go after cleaning the interior on it, to clean up the stain and the stench of the thieves.
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Sometimes other priorities get in the way of completing small tasks.
Live and learn is right, you can look into it later once you get back home, don't forget to troll eBay for a new owners manual set for it :slow:
Glad to hear it is not too bad of results. In the spring you can go after cleaning the interior on it, to clean up the stain and the stench of the thieves.
Heck I would consider a new carpet kit.....LOL