The Detailers Cafe
Exterior Detailing => Wheels, Tires and Wheel-Wells => Topic started by: Rollingrock on May 20, 2010, 07:52:45 PM
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Ok, anyone else having brake noise? just wondering if the lingering effects of APC+ could cause it?
just wondering....
Any ideas? 66K on the clock.
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why kind of noise? I've always wondered if some of these cleaners could do any harm to the brakes...
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when I come to a stop, if I am lightly on the brakes, I get noise...squealing noise. almost sounds like the indicators but I have lots of brake pad life left.
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Ok. If you get an answer, let me know. I've had this forever and with every set of pads I put on. Only with brand new pads does it go away but it doesn't stay away.
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hmmm....didnj't you just change your pads or was that Rockpick?
I have replaced my last tie rod (now all are done) just finished the front and rear swaybar end links...that was fun. Next is installing the Firestone ride right air bags and then....upper and lower ball joints both sides...not looking forward to that one.
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RP recently admitted to letting his brakepads get too far gone. I did my pads sometime last year. Thinking about doing the front calipers too because one side wears down really fast compared to the other and I'm not sure if ones working too hard or if the other isn't working hard enough. But I don't get any pulling. I really don't want to replace another powerslot rotor.
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do you turn the rotors when putting on new pads?
thinking of getting a set of wagners for the EXPY
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No. I've only ever turned the rotors when they've required it. As long as you get to the pads in time they shouldn't need to be turned. I run either Hawks or Raybestos. No real reason. It's really whatever the parts store has at the time. I usually just ask for semi-metallic pads and to be quite honest, I don't remember the reason.
Actually, I don't even think I can turn my Powerslots, being slotted and all. But I don't know that for certain.
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Yes I usually turn my rotors when I change pads. When I didn't turn them they always wore fast and made noise.
What type pads are making noise?
My stock pads lasted about 60K and squeaked sometimes...right now I have hawks and over 130K on original rotors and not a sound yet.
They do make a good amount of red dust after a few days of use.
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I don't think I've ever gotten over 15k out of any set of pads on anything I've driven yet.
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I don't think I've ever gotten over 15k out of any set of pads on anything I've driven yet.
Cause you never turn your rotors. :whisp:
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What about on new rotors?
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man really Mike? 15K...that doesn't seem right...
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I change pads every year without fail. I've had a 92 Mustang GT, 96 Explorer and now the 02 Expedition. They all had the same problem. This is the first set of tires that I've been able to or will get over 30k out of. The Mustang was understandable. I was a kid with a fast car. I got new brakes and tires with every tank of fuel it seemed. I think I still drive a bit too aggressive.
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What about on new rotors?
Well you got me there. :Old Dogg?:
Did you do all the associated routine brake maintenance?
I usually flush my brake fluid have every thing taken apart, clean and lube all the boots and pistons every 30K or so.
If one side is wearing faster than the other either you have a misaligned frame or maybe a caliper piston not retracting completely.
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I've had a lot of experience with GMCs having brake issues. If one caliper fails the other one will wear faster because it's the only one working (as far as the front is concerned). Also, like you mentioned, if it's stuck and the piston doesn't retract it will also wear out faster. Either way I'd expect some pulling and I don't get any. I'm just going to get new calipers next time around and see what happens.
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:dope:
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On the original topic, I always wondered what the long term consequences of using harsh or strong cleaners do to all the rubber gaskets, seals and o-rings in the brake system.
Is it better to flush the crap out or is it more harm to let it accumulate?
When I first started driving I used to try and wash the family car so I could drive a clean car and my Father used to always say...
"NO! It drives just as good dirty as it does clean."
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when doing the air bags this weekend, I may pull a front wheel and really inspect all the brake parts to see what the deal is.
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It's not uncommon on Super Duties to have corrosion build up on the caliper bracket underneath the stainless steel sliders for the pads. When this happens, it causes all sorts of weird problems like pads hanging up and making noises. I've helped do enough brakes on SD's on our fleet to see this many times. So we always take that bracket out and carefully clean / sand / chip / file all corrosion out befor reinstalling everything.
Another common problem is the actual sliders freezing up. Make sure you clean them out and apply the correct slider lubricant. (Do NOT use Never Sieze.)
Finally, you don't have to replace rotors every time you replace the pads, but many folks recommend it. There is a decent theory that says you'll be mating a new pad to a new rotor and therefore will break them in together and get longer life out of the set. We only replace rotors when we have to and rarely turn them. Avoid cheap (white box) rotors at all costs.
Hope that helps.